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Where would I find that screw?
There is a bolt missing at A and it might affect the tension on the spring at B.
The blade shaft is free and clear of any debri.
Where would I find that screw?
There is a bolt missing at A and it might affect the tension on the spring at B.
The blade shaft is free and clear of any debri.
A is definitely a mounting point for that bracket and I would replace that. B looks like the throttle return spring bracket and I can’t see the screw but I think also a mounting bracket screw. Check the other side for a little screw often with a tiny coil spring between the screw head and carb body.
I would do this- Find the engine model - it might be on a metal plate if it’s an older model, or Google the model of lawnmower it is and the B&S hp rating. You should be able to find a schematic on line, find the carb and will detail everything.
I keep an old laptop in my shop for finding info like that.
The mower was taken to a relatives house. On the above photo if you look right under B you see where that spring is attached. I bent that plate outward which did allow the engine to rub faster but did not solve the problem. It acts like it is revving up and down. I'll get the model number next time I'm over there which could be 2 weeks. Also can consider one of those suggested gas treatments.
Okay well I had the same kind of issue with my Craftsman riding mower. Inconsistent run speed, stalling etc. I don’t use fuel treatments etc- never have. Just keep fresh fuel ( no ethanol! )in it and periodically start it off season. Been doing it this way for 30 years.
I bought a new carb for like $25, super easy to swap and it runs like a champ. By the time you go get all this other stuff it’d be cheaper to just slap on a new carb. They are set at the factory. Replace that missing bracket bolt too.
I don’t put much faith in magic elixirs. I have 1940’s Farmall tractors that run with nothing but gas. No fuel stabilizers or other stuff. Just keep the battery on a tender and start them once a month. B&S single poppers are reliable as well.
We have a 1991 Lawn Boy 5 HP 4 stroke commercial grade lawn mower. Its been a favorite all these years and still runs but has been hard to start. I put in a new air filter( old one was getting dirty) and cleaned the old spark plug since I didn't have a replacement but will get one for the next mowing. It wasn't too bad, just some carbon build up. I used carb cleaner and starting fluid spray and that got it going after some effort.
It does seem to use oil. I always change the oil by tipping it and letting it drain out at the start of the mowing season. We have a Toro mower that will have a full quart drain out this way, but the Lawn Boy never gives up more than a 1/3 of a quart this way. Is it a design difference? I guess its never a full oil change but since I have to add oil every other mowing I guess it evens out. The Toro always seems to have no oil issues or starting issues and I do the same routine on it. Its only about 15 to 20 years old, though.
So what should I be doing to make it run better? Get it fully serviced?
Where would I find that screw?
There is a bolt missing at A and it might affect the tension on the spring at B.
Quote:
Originally Posted by howard555
The mower was taken to a relatives house. On the above photo if you look right under B you see where that spring is attached. I bent that plate outward which did allow the engine to rub faster but did not solve the problem. It acts like it is revving up and down. I'll get the model number next time I'm over there which could be 2 weeks. Also can consider one of those suggested gas treatments.
Replace the spring. At least thats a cheap easy fix to try. You'll be surprised the spring looks good but lost its tension to keep a consistent idle
No one has a spring this small. Auto parts, hardware, small engine repair with mowers.
Just cut a coil off and put it back on.
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