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Just a thought,
I grow (because of space issues)my tomatos in big pots with a good organic potting soil and have real good luck with them...would that help?
Going to the extension is great too because they know whats happening in your area
Extension service looked at our photos and sample clippings and said it's early blight.
There is an "early blight" and a "late blight". This is the early one, and needs a fungicide.
The blight actually starts in the "armpits" of the plant and goes out the branch causing it to die off.
The recommendation: Get a Mancozeb-containing product. It is marketed under the names of Dithan, Manzeb, Nemispot, Manzane. It's used to protect fruit, nut and field crops from a wide range of fungal diseases.
I did a bit of research on it (don't like to use toxic chemicals). It's said to be "virtually non-toxic", but that's not reassuring. The report said it's non-toxic to bees, so I thought, "good!" I didn't want to hurt the bees and also had concerns about the many birds that visit the garden. Everything seemed OK with the product so far but another fact sheet described symptoms of exposure in humans; it has shown to be carcinogenic in lab animals; and California lists it as a human carcinogen. It breaks down in the soil to ETU that last 5-10 weeks, with ability to move through soil, potentially contaminating groundwater.
So, I went to Environmentally Responsible Gardening Products that Work – GardensAlive.com - they sell environmentally safe products. We're getting Soap-Shield Fungicide, which can be used on vegetables, fruits and garden flowers as well. It's economical, too. If we use their "Tomatoes Alive" product along with the fungicide, we have a chance to optimize the crop long past the time most tomatoes are done producing.
Not getting too OT, but my tomatoes have picked up since last week when we had 5 straight days of upper 90 temps....tomatoes like warm weather, but it was just putting too much stress on those guys....(I have 2 bush type and 2 indeterminate plants)
I think worst case if the plants are too far gone, you can always pull them out and start w/new transplants...its not the end of the world...
Each state has its own growing problems and the watering and type of tomato plants you purchase and soil are all variables. I think you cannot go wrong with mixing peat moss in with your soil, for it helps both clay and sandy soils. Do not over do it, but add some each year.
Other than that, I would find your local cooperative extension. Here is the website, state by state. They are paid by the government to advise growers in their states. If you call the main number they will supply you with your local office. They will, if you have diseased plants or bugs, look at samples and tell you what they are and how to treat it. They will know the soil and rainfall in your area and advise you what to add or how to test these things yourself. They will also tell you which variety of tomato is the best to grow in your area.
I called mine for tree advice and have some lovely large trees whose leaves crumble up each year so they do not need to be raked up or mulched. They just dissolve into topsoil each year.
I would keep their number as a handy resource.
In my area they give classes for lay people and one is on local tomato growing. In my area this is only once a year for a day or two, and they also sell plants during that time. I would trust what they tell me.
I had a young man show me something he learned from his father about planting tomatoe palnts thaty gave me great results.Wehn planting he would pick off the bottom stems so that he could plant the plants deep in the soil. I have never had so many beautiful tomatoes since doing this. I guess it depends on where to live but I have seen palnts that got the morning but not the afternoon sun be stunted in growth and production compared to those that got both in the same garden. I think it is more a moisture problem. Drip watering really helps here;I have found.
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They're gonna get it now. 
