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Location: Approximately 50 miles from Missoula MT/38 yrs full time after 4 yrs part time
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimboburnsy
I like the look of the UBR, but at that pricepoint (which is almost as much as the barrel I'm looking at) I think I would go with the Magpull precision adjustable stock...
I'm trying to build a no-frills, flattop, rifle length in order to learn more about this platform and to see what kind of accuracy I can get for a minimal investment.
........my Magpul ACS on a CMMG Lower gives me a true 15 1/8 inch LOP...
Location: Approximately 50 miles from Missoula MT/38 yrs full time after 4 yrs part time
2,308 posts, read 4,121,934 times
Reputation: 5025
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimboburnsy
That's good intel. Does it make a difference if you have a rifle or carbine buffer tube?
...don't know enough about it to answer your question....the source that sold me the lower, just switched out the 6-way adjustable that was supposed to be on the lower with the ACS.
On my 6.8 build, I used a Bison Arms barrel, Aero upper, UTG rails (made in USA), UTG low profile gas block, DPMS bolt carrier, Bison bolt, UTG 6 pos stock (USA made), RRA lower, DPMS parts kit and a Triggerworks.com trigger tweaked to 2.5lbs.
Just like making sure your AR15 has a true 5.56 mm chamber and proper barrel twist, it is also important in 6.8 mm to use the original AMU/"Murray" chamber (also known as SPCII) as the Remington SAAMI spec chamber is too "tight" (like a .223 chamber). For most uses, 1/11 or 1/12 barrel twists with the superior 3 or 5 groove pattern are optimal, as 1/10 6 groove barrels can needlessly increase pressure and reduce velocity. The exception is with very short barrels, where a faster twist may be necessary to ensure proper rotational velocity for optimal upset with some loadings.
There is absolutely no reason to go to a 20" barrel unless you like needless additional weight and length to impede your movement. I would recommend the 16" barrel based on what you've written thus far.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,774,074 times
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As an update I thought I would share an experience that may or may not be useful to others in my position:
First, I didn't need any tools other than a boxcutter, a curved hemostat (needle nose pliers would have been fine, I just found the hemostat to be handier) and a pair of vise-grips with moleskin stuck on the jaws. Maybe I just got lucky, but I think that the vise-grips are a better mousetrap for installing roll-pins than a set of punches. I would have needed three or four hands with the punches and I think my risk of breaking the ears off of the trigger housing would have been much greater.
Second, if you don't lose a front takedown-pin during the lower receiver assembly then you are (i) really lucky, (ii) a vascular surgeon or (iii) should have been a vascular surgeon. I shot the first one about 20 feet across the room, heard it hit a window and so had a decent idea of its location but couldn't find it even with the help of a rare-earth magnet. Spike's was nice enough to give me an extra. I launched another one with my second attempt, but had the presence of mind to point everything at my chest and so easily recovered it. Third time was the charm.
The 15 dollar trigger with a regular LPK sucks. I would rather target shoot with my 870. I've been dicking around with it, but I can only get it to suck a little bit less so far. I've watched a multitude of videos on Youtube regarding the subject, I've experimented to the edge of my comfort level after sifting through the information available but I still have a crappy trigger..
Last edited by jimboburnsy; 10-12-2011 at 06:49 PM..
The 15 dollar trigger with a regular LPK sucks. I would rather target shoot with my 870. I've been dicking around with it, but I can only get it to suck a little bit less so far. I've watched a multitude of videos on Youtube regarding the subject, I've experimented to the edge of my comfort level after sifting through the information available but I still have a crappy trigger..
Just a suggestion based on my experiences with a number of different trigger assemblies; Save yourself a lot of trouble and muttered curses. Buy a Geissele SSA-E trigger. It's not an inexpensive fix but it will reward your dollars spent with a supremely reliable trigger that offers a consistently good pull.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,774,074 times
Reputation: 7185
Quote:
Originally Posted by outbacknv
Just a suggestion based on my experiences with a number of different trigger assemblies; Save yourself a lot of trouble and muttered curses. Buy a Geissele SSA-E trigger. It's not an inexpensive fix but it will reward your dollars spent with a supremely reliable trigger that offers a consistently good pull.
I've built quite a few, but honestly these days, you can get a complete, ready to pin an upper on, lower reciever from Plum Crazy firearms, for about $100. No building needed. Yes, they're made out of polymer, Vs aluminum that is the norm, but so are millions of other guns. I've bought and used 3 of them, and have had no issues whatsoever. And they give you a no questions asked lifetime guarantee. I've got over 5000 rounds on the first one I bought and so far, no issues.
I wouldn't go pinning on a .50 BMG upper, but anything besides that, I'm sure it'd be fine. PlumCrazy C-15 Composite Lower
Bill Springfield - www.TriggerWork.net
Bill tweaked my DPMS trigger for a 2.5 lb pull and added the speed hammer option. I like it better than the 2 stage RRA trigger on my wife's AR.
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