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Anything and everything for and about reloading. Pet loads, specs, range reports, equipment, techniques, tips, ballistic tests etc.... I'll start off with a .45 ACP load. Precision Delta 230 grain FMJ, 4.8 grains Bullseye, cases trimmed 0.888", C.O.L. 1.250"-1.260" (adjust for your handgun) 1911s like 1.250"-1.255" usually, taper crimp 0.469", Winchester WLP primer. I'll also add I do all my reloading on a Dillon 550B and trim with a RCBS Power Trim-Pro 120V. I use Dillon case gauges to check my brass while prepping the first time. You would be amazed at how much new fired brass that I bought LOADED new factory, and it is out of spec brass that I have to throw away. Either it was out of spec to start with or was a weak case that buldged beyond sizing after the first firing. That case gauge finds them quicky. They also are about 100% positive that the round will feed if it drops in easily. Maybe one in every 200-300 are bad. I also can check my carbide sizing die with the case gauges. This should be a good thread and read for all shooters whether you reload or not.>>>>>>>>>>
Last edited by SamTM; 02-11-2012 at 03:37 AM..
Reason: SPELLING
Reloading for the GLOCK G-27, G-23, G-22, G-35, G-24L .40 S&W and KA-BOOMS! It's well known that a GLOCK .40 cal is one of the most reliable .40 S&Ws out. They feed and eat nearly anything without problems that others have choking. Wolf crap ammo, yucky old PD junk etc. One of the reasons for this increased reliablity is a generously cut chamber. It's been hogged out and is extra large. This isn't a problem with factory new ammo loaded within SAAMI specs. It can be a problem with out of spec reloads though. The chamber is unsupported in GLOCK .40 S&W pistols. When you fire a brand new factory round in a GLOCK .40 S&W, you can sometimes get a case buldge or "guppy belly" at the 6 o clock position near the base of the case. It's easily seen when you pick up your empties. This "guppy belly" or buldge was created as the round was fired and the unsupported area of the case stretched. Again, not a big deal for a new factory new ammo as this was the first time it happened and the case is still strong. The problem is, after running the buldged case through a normal sizing die, it's not always removed with the sizing die alone. This loaded round gets reloaded and stuck back in a .40 cal GLOCK again going unoticed. This is where the problem comes in. That buldge is still there and out of spec. GLOCKs are also designed to fire slightly out of battery. If the case is turned just right, you will get the same "guppy belly" positioned in the same spot in the chamber. It's already been stretched once. It won't take a second time. Pull the trigger and...KA-BOOM!! You've just managed to blow up a perfectly good GLOCK .40 S&W with your own hands and stupidity! The first thing to do is buy some case gauges if you are reloading for ANY .40 S&W pistol! Those are the same Dillon ones I just talked about above. L.E. Wilson and some others make them too. It's real simple, if the sized (after you run it through the die) won't go without forcing...DON'T PUT IT IN YOUR GUN! This still has the buldge and must be removed if you want to reuse this case safely. This is where a extra step and tool comes in. It's designed just for this very purpose. It completely removes the buldge and brings the case back into specs again. You use it after you run through your normal sizing die. .40 S&W is very sensitive to bullet setback as well. This is caused as the bullet contacts the feedramp under battery with recoil spring tension. The bullet gets pushed back, causing too short of COL, and another KA-BOOM! This problem can be fixed buy trimming all your brass to a uniform length after sizing. No they aren't the same COL. I've taken 50 random pieces out of a brand new box after fired and they can all be different. Make them all the same and remove all burrs before proceeding. You'll need about a 0.003"-0.004" taper crimp on a .40 S&W. Powder is another concern. I've found that Blue Dot, while not the most accurate, is the safest in a .40 S&W GLOCK. It comes on nice and smooth and as long as you are moderate on your charge (in the middle range) buldges don't happen as frequently. ALWAYS PITCH YOUR .40 S&W BRASS AT NO MORE THAN FIVE LOADINGS for safety. The .40 S&W is not for the weak hearted or novice to learn on. Save that for your buddies who have been doing it for years if you are just getting started. Good luck! The tool!>>>>>>>>>> G-RX Carbide Base Sizing Die Kit 40 S&W 357 Sig 10mm Auto
All brass should be trimmed & sized before loading them the first time. Dont have any experience with the 40 or any other semi auto caliber. I shoot nines because of cost & dont reload because they fling brass all over creation. However I do load 357, 44 mag, 30/30, 45/70, 7mm08, 243, 270, 44/40, 32/20, 25/20, 39.55, 35 Rem, 444 and 32/40. 38/40 pretty soon but I just got the gun & am waiting on dies & components.
I use mostly once fired cases but do buy alot of new brass as well. Both factory new & once fired are usually inconsistant lengths so I size & then trim them. I use a Lee trim gage as much as possible to trim them, though I have an RCBS collet type trimmer for when I need it. Once trimmed I just check after each fireing and as long as the longest one is in spec I dont sweat case length much for many loads. Most of my reloads get shot at paper. When loading hunting rounds everything is trimmed the same and extra caution is exercised to ensure consistency, same thing if I'm trying to find an accurate load or a load I intend to compete with. What I have found is theres often little to be gained by being very anal about it, but its worth it to me in some instances. I load all my ammo on a pair of Lee single stage presses mounted next to each other, mostly Lee dies but I have Lyman, Hornady & RCBS also. I use a Lee factory crimp die alot too, Lee gets a bad rap but IMO makes alot of innovative quality stuff.
All brass should be trimmed & sized beforeloading them the first time. Dont have any experience with the 40 or any other semi auto caliber. I shoot nines because of cost & dont reload because they fling brass all over creation. However I do load 357, 44 mag, 30/30, 45/70, 7mm08, 243, 270, 44/40, 32/20, 25/20, 39.55, 35 Rem, 444 and 32/40. 38/40 pretty soon but I just got the gun & am waiting on dies & components.
I use mostly once fired cases but do buy alot of new brass as well. Both factory new & once fired are usually inconsistant lengths so I size & then trim them. I use a Lee trim gage as much as possible to trim them, though I have an RCBS collet type trimmer for when I need it. Once trimmed I just check after each fireing and as long as the longest one is in spec I dont sweat case length much for many loads. Most of my reloads get shot at paper. When loading hunting rounds everything is trimmed the same and extra caution is exercised to ensure consistency, same thing if I'm trying to find an accurate load or a load I intend to compete with. What I have found is theres often little to be gained by being very anal about it, but its worth it to me in some instances. I load all my ammo on a pair of Lee single stage presses mounted next to each other, mostly Lee dies but I have Lyman, Hornady & RCBS also. I use a Lee factory crimp die alot too, Lee gets a bad rap but IMO makes alot of innovative quality stuff.
I always do, and so do my buddies. Yet, many guys ask WHY? "That's a waste of time!". Safety, accuracy and a good crimp isn't!
I still have my old Herter’s ‘C’ press that I bought in 1960 when I was 13. If I recall correctly; it cost me $13 and weighed 26 pounds. I guess you can say that it more than paid for itself!
I don’t have a brass tumbler. But I love the little Lee case trimmer that uses a drill. I trim my brass and hold a rag with Brasso on my brass while they are spinning in my drill. I also like the Hornady SX soft points - great performance and I have been using them for many years.
PS If anybody tries to use the Brasso on the rag while the case is spinning; watch out that you don’t get the rag caught on the drill chuck. Wear gloves and be careful - especially if you have a strong drill (like I do).
Last edited by fisheye; 02-13-2012 at 03:51 PM..
Reason: Safety
Ammo boxes are a fairly important part of reloading. Who wants to use old cardboard factory boxes that break down over time and come apart in your shooting bag? The gain from 50 to 100 per box is just about right too. They take up less space and stack neatly with the lips on the boxes. You can put 1000 .45 ACPs in the place that used to take 500. I've tried them all over the years. I finally found the ones I like. The green ones are even stronger. Flip-Top Ammo Box 40 S&W 10mm Auto 45 ACP 100-Round Plastic
Wilson Combat 1911 .45 ACP load... Winchester WLP primer, 4.8 to 5.0 grains Bullseye, C.O.L. 1.250", 200 grain H&G #68 L-SWC (sized 0.452"), taper crimp 0.469". I size and trim all my .45 ACP brass to 0.888" no matter what load. Mr. Wilson doesn't tell lies! This is the test target out of my CQB. Range on this one was 15 yards.
Reloading for the 357 SIG. I have two loads I like to use in my 357 SIGs... GLOCK, Sig Sauer and S&W M&P. The first thing you need to remember is that just beacuse this is a pistol case and you have carbide dies, does not mean you don't need to lube them before sizing. I like the spray on Dillion case lube as used for rifles. I lay them out on a cookie sheet and dust over them lightly. After letting them sit for a few minutes, I hit them again lightly. The cases are prepped in this fashion after tumbling and ready to begin. You need a LE Wilson 357 SIG case gauge to set your shoulder with the sizing die. This is the same procedure as loading bottleneck rifle cases. The part number is #18708 L.E. Wilson Case gages: Reloading Machine Accessories My first load is 124 grain Hornady FMJ-FP #35567. All cases are trimmed to 0.855", COL 1.140", taper crimp 0.378", 9.2 grains Blue Dot, Winchester WSP. This load has proven to be the most accurate out of my Sig P-226 357 SIG. It's a nice mild to medium target load that doesn't punish your frame. The bullet is a flat point 9mm and is cheaper to load than the next. The other load I use duplicates a Speer Lawman LE practice load. It's a tad on the warm side, yet still medium to upper medium on the "power scale". The bullet is a 125 grain Speer TMJ FN, COL 1.135", taper crimp 0.378", 9.9 grains Blue Dot, CCI 500 primer. This one will have the famous 357 SIG bang and muzzle flash. It's more geared towards a as used load. That means you get a similar feel as a premium defense load without shooting hollowpoints and premium $1.00 per round ammo. As with ALL 357 SIG reloads, watch your bullet setback on these. Don't chamber a 357 SIG reload any more times than you have to. I like to load and shoot. I don't load and unload my 357 SIG reloads for that reason. They might take two or three chamberings before they are starting to get a little too short.
I reload 20 gauge shotshells for shooting clays, so not too interesting. My current load is 7/8 oz of #7 1/2s and a Remington RXP20 wad over 16.5 gr of Unique in Winchester AA hulls with a W209 primer. It's a fairly inexpensive, fairly clean-burning load that works well.
I reload 20 gauge shotshells for shooting clays, so not too interesting. My current load is 7/8 oz of #7 1/2s and a Remington RXP20 wad over 16.5 gr of Unique in Winchester AA hulls with a W209 primer. It's a fairly inexpensive, fairly clean-burning load that works well.
I sold my MEC 600 Jr about ten years ago when shotgun shells got so cheap at Wal-Mart. I wish I hadn't. Almost as soon as I did, the price started going up. I'm thinking of getting another press. I'm looking at the Dillon SL-900 or MEC Model 8567 Grabber...or even a MEC 9000G Grabber in 12 gauge this go around. I loaded about seven .50 Cal ammo cans full of reloads right before I sold my press. I've been using them since, plus new factory. I always liked a #9 1 1/8 oz with a 700X charge. I also used Winchester AA hauls and W209 primers. I can't remember my wad or powder charge though. Hopefully soon again.
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>>>>>>>>>> 
The first thing to do is buy some case gauges if you are reloading for ANY .40 S&W pistol! Those are the same Dillon ones I just talked about above. L.E. Wilson and some others make them too. It's real simple, if the sized (after you run it through the die) won't go without forcing...DON'T PUT IT IN YOUR GUN! This still has the buldge and must be removed if you want to reuse this case safely. This is where a extra step and tool comes in. It's designed just for this very purpose. It completely removes the buldge and brings the case back into specs again. You use it after you run through your normal sizing die. .40 S&W is very sensitive to bullet setback as well. This is caused as the bullet contacts the feedramp under battery with recoil spring tension. The bullet gets pushed back, causing too short of COL, and another KA-BOOM! This problem can be fixed buy trimming all your brass to a uniform length after sizing. No they aren't the same COL. I've taken 50 random pieces out of a brand new box after fired and they can all be different. Make them all the same and remove all burrs before proceeding. You'll need about a 0.003"-0.004" taper crimp on a .40 S&W. Powder is another concern. I've found that Blue Dot, while not the most accurate, is the safest in a .40 S&W GLOCK. It comes on nice and smooth and as long as you are moderate on your charge (in the middle range) buldges don't happen as frequently. ALWAYS PITCH YOUR .40 S&W BRASS AT NO MORE THAN FIVE LOADINGS for safety. The .40 S&W is not for the weak hearted or novice to learn on. Save that for your buddies who have been doing it for years if you are just getting started. Good luck!
The tool!>>>>>>>>>> 
Bill Wilson 1911 .45 ACP Loads
I've been using them since, plus new factory. I always liked a #9 1 1/8 oz with a 700X charge. I also used Winchester AA hauls and W209 primers. I can't remember my wad or powder charge though. Hopefully soon again.
