Quick hair-care routine?

[TiredOfSFL]

Originally Posted by yip812

Sulfate free shampoos never worked on me either. Neither did conditioner-only washing. I need something that will clean my scalp. Enter: Shampoo bars! (technically, I use olive oil soap because I'm sensitive to the coconut oil in the shampoo bars, but it works the same) Everyone says you need a vinegar rinse afterward, but I hated that part, so I tried conditioner. Works perfectly. If you don't use sulfates, you can't use silicones (because sulfates are the only way to wash away the cones, or they'll build up). I use tresemme naturals conditioner. I use the same conditioner mixed with water and a couple drops of grapeseed oil as a leave in. I finish with some aloe vera gel if I want more hold, but often the leave in will do (I'm less curly than you though, so I don't know how this works for any hair but mine).

Did you scrub your scalp carefully while co-washing? A lot of people don't do it as scrupulously as they should and thus can't get their scalps clean enough, also the conditioner should be left on the hair while continuing with one's shower and rinsing the hair at the end, and in the "Tightly Curly" method the author suggests co-washing right after using shampoo (and I would suggest diluting the shampoo in 2 parts water for more efficient application but less irritation). In 12 years of co-washing I've never ever felt that my scalp was not clean because I scrub probably even better than if I were using shampoo, even when using hard water it was not a problem, and I've rarely co-washed more than 2x/week, sometimes much less than that because when my hair's well conditioned I only need to water-wash in between to prevent over-conditioning.

In reality, shampoo bars are not any better than shampoo. In a recent thread at a well-known hair forum this was discussed and several people reported that over time their hair dried out. The reason is that the pH is very high, the name is deceitful, what they really are is castile soap, which while mild compared to other soaps is still soap. So I wouldn't really recommend them for long-term use.

Btw, sulfate shampoos are NOT the only way to remove 'cones, cocamidopropyl betaine does too. But I don't like 'cones because they usually mask the real condition of the hair and do not really improve it, plus they can be very irritating to the scalp. I always had dandruff when using them, and so does my daughter who straightens and won't give them up. I'm sure lots of people who use them and have scalp issues have no clue it's a result from the combination of the irritation from the harsh shampoos and the 'cones.

[flowbe202]

I think these posts all highlight the many differences in hair types and how it is almost impossible to tell someone what to do without seeing the actual hair and walking the person through the proper care.

I've progressed from Bumble & Bumble to Coppola to Brazilian to Davines. I will also use "crap" conditioners if the ingredients are what my hair needs.

It has taken me a long long time to learn how my hair responds to the different products and how my techniques also impacts how my hair turns out.

I coat my lower ends with conditioner before washing and only wash from the scalp down about three inches. My hair desperately needs silicones and because my hair is processed every 5 weeks, i never have 'cone buildup. I tried one natural product made out of shea butter and other conditioners--- ouch! Wrong, wrong, wrong!

But, this works and doesn't work for me... You've got to learn what products and ingredients and techniques work for you. lots of trial and error unless you go to a stylist who works and knows YOUR type of hair.

Stylists are not all equally knowledgable - I have met some who aren't committed to their craft. Find a good one and treat them like gold!

[yip812]

Originally Posted by TiredOfSFL

Did you scrub your scalp carefully while co-washing? A lot of people don't do it as scrupulously as they should and thus can't get their scalps clean enough, also the conditioner should be left on the hair while continuing with one's shower and rinsing the hair at the end, and in the "Tightly Curly" method the author suggests co-washing right after using shampoo (and I would suggest diluting the shampoo in 2 parts water for more efficient application but less irritation). In 12 years of co-washing I've never ever felt that my scalp was not clean because I scrub probably even better than if I were using shampoo, even when using hard water it was not a problem, and I've rarely co-washed more than 2x/week, sometimes much less than that because when my hair's well conditioned I only need to water-wash in between to prevent over-conditioning.

In reality, shampoo bars are not any better than shampoo. In a recent thread at a well-known hair forum this was discussed and several people reported that over time their hair dried out. The reason is that the pH is very high, the name is deceitful, what they really are is castile soap, which while mild compared to other soaps is still soap. So I wouldn't really recommend them for long-term use.

Btw, sulfate shampoos are NOT the only way to remove 'cones, cocamidopropyl betaine does too. But I don't like 'cones because they usually mask the real condition of the hair and do not really improve it, plus they can be very irritating to the scalp. I always had dandruff when using them, and so does my daughter who straightens and won't give them up. I'm sure lots of people who use them and have scalp issues have no clue it's a result from the combination of the irritation from the harsh shampoos and the 'cones.

I probably didn't scrub my scalp enough. I have had problems with scalp irritation forever and scrubbing my scalp with my fingers did not seem like a good idea.

Shampoo bars are not really castile soap. True castile soap (like I use) is olive oil only and quite mild. Somewhere along the line, people decided any all-vegetable soap that contained mostly olive oil could be called castile. Now it seems to mean just any soap that is vegetable-oil based. Most shampoo bars I have seen (and most "castile" soaps) have had more coconut oil than anything. Soaps with high percentages of coconut oil are very cleansing and very drying. My scalp reacts the same to commercial shampoo bars as it does to SLS. So yeah, maybe I shouldn't be promoting them since I don't actually use them, but I do like soap over shampoo. For the first time in my life I have a scalp that is free from irritation and hair that is finally moisturized. Perhaps this would be the same with any sulfate/cone free routine, but I like my soap. And I make it myself so it is really cheap .

[No2Monsanto]

Originally Posted by kmb501

Sulfate-free shampoo causes stuff to build up in my hair! I don't really know how to avoid using products with silicone unless maybe I go all natural and stop using shampoo and conditioner. I imagine that would make my hair dirty, frizzy, and greasy. This problem may have no easy answers. I wish I lived in NYC; then my hairdresser would probably know exactly what to do.

Why would sulfate-free shampoo cause build up? That's puzzling to me, because all sulfates do is strip your hair of it's natural oils and dries it out. FOR SURE. Just from what you say, I can't really get a clear idea of what kind of hair you have. "finer that African-American, but not as HEAVY as caucasian??" I'm not sure what that means.

Anyway, naturallycurly.com is an awesome resource for information on caring for, and the challenges of curly/natural hair; I used it TO DEATH when I stopped straightening my hair back in 2007. It's free to join, and it's forum style just like this one. They also have an online store full of products that you can buy, often with reviews from other curly girls on the forum.

My hair is: Thick, dry, highly porous, (meaning it soaks up any product I put on it) 3C in texture, (you'll learn more about what that means on natural curly.com) high shrinkage when it dries, and slightly striped from me using color. My hair doesn't like parabens, silicones, (or any ingredient ending in -cone) multiple alcohols, sulfates, or mineral oil, which is terribly drying. Basically, the more natural and clean the ingredients in a product, (meaning things you can pronounce) the better my hair likes it, and it behaves well when it likes something.

Often hair won't behave because it's crying out for some attention. I've found thru trial and error and the purchase of multiple products, and trying various treatments, that a really good deep conditioning treatment is what hair needs. Curly hair is just naturally dryer than any other kind of hair, and conditioner of every kind should be a part of your hair care regimen; rinse out, leave-in, and deep conditioner. Read more about dryness and conditioning here: Marc Anthony | Curl Girl Club | Frizz 101

I discovered what has turned out to be an EXCELLENT deep treatment I found on naturally curly, and finally gave it a whirl last night. Can I just say, my frizz is COMPLETELY gone this morning. I can't believe it. I fight frizz like many of you, as I am from Georgia, but now live in North Carolina; either way, we have HORRID humidity in the summer. Here's the deep conditioning treatment:

1 1/3 cup honey
1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 cup of organic unfiltered coconut oil. (it will be solid white)
3 Tbsp. FRESH lemon juice
1/2 cup of moisturizing, sulfate-free conditioner (I used Tresseme Naturals)

I cut this recipe in half, and still have enough left over to do another treatment; so just know that if you do the whole recipe, you'll have a lot leftover depending on how much hair you have.

After washing your hair, melt the the honey and coconut oil down to liquid in separate containers in the microwave. Then put everything in one bowl and mix well with a whisk. Carefully apply ALL OVER your hair, coating well, and being sure to get the ends. Now put on either a shower cap and sit under the drier for 20 minutes, or wet a hand towel thoroughly, heat in the microwave for 30 seconds, then wrap and secure around your hair for a total of 30 minutes. Take the towel off every 10 minutes to reheat, and wrap around your hair again; you will do this 3x over the total of the 30 minutes. Then rinse with warm water, followed by cold water to close your cuticle to help your hair be less frizzy, and to give it shine. Stop using bath towels to dry your curly hair! Use a microfiber towel, or an old T-shirt to absorb excess water after washing and before styling. Using bath towels increases frizz!! You can do this deep treatment once or twice a month.

Now, because my hair is dry, after rinsing, I applied Aussie Moist conditioner mixed with a few drops of PURE Argan Oil throughout my hair, and left it in. I then finished it with a modest amount of Jane Carter Curl Defining Cream. That's it. My hair is so gorgeous and healthy looking today, I don't even recognize myself!

If you have thin, fine hair, you'll want to find a nice, light weight leave in. A leave-in does three things: moisturizes your curls, helps cut down on frizz, and protects your hair from the styling products you'll finish it with. Here are some styling products I've found to be helpful with frizz:

Ouidad Cimate Control OR Curl Quencher Gel. (It's at Ulta)
Devacurl Ultra or Light Defining Gel (Also at Ulta)
Jane Carter Solution Curl Defining Cream (Target, Whole Foods, Ulta)
TIGI Catwalk Curlesque Curls Rock Amplifier (Anywhere)

Good luck, and let's continue this fight!!