Restoring an old dresser (paint, purchase, cheap, instructions)

[Deez Nuttz]

I am restoring an old dresser that I've had since I was a baby and I'm passing it down to my daughter.

The dresser is all wood with cardboard like drawer bottoms and a cardboard like backing....which i just replaced with 1/4 inch plywood.

Now I'm in the process of sanding it down. It's currently stained and I'm thinking about restaining it a darker shade.

I would like some tips on this please....should I sand the wood until it's white and all of the stain is gone? What grade (grit) sand paper should I use?

I am not sure what type wood it is but I want to say pine. It's a white colored wood.

This is my first wood staining project, all help and info is welcome. Thanks.

[virgode]

Furniture refinishing has been one of my favorite past times, particularly in the summer, I've purchase older used peices, that needed some TLC just because I couldn't resist... While an expert might disagree, I think there are several ways you could do this, but heres what I would suggest:

If there are stains and rings, you could sand them down until they disappear, by hand, or palm sander is what I've used. I've used all different grits of paper, but for pine medium is best bc pine is a soft wood. I've gone right down until there's no remaining stain showing and had excellent results. Then go back with a very fine sand paper, your not removing any thing here, more so smoothing the finish for stain.

You can use an oil based or water based stain, and oil or water based sealer. You'll stick with either the oil for both or the water based for both, but not a mixture of the oil and water, I'm sure you get the idea.
Water based cleans up easier than oil, but I think oil based has a richer end result.

I like to mix stain colors, I never stick to just one, like the results better.
Paint it on with your brush, or sponge applicators that you can throw away, there cheap too. Have a few old cloths handy to wipe down excess stain, it's not like paint. If your happy with the stain color your done with that step unless you'd like it darker. When your staining if your uncertain just how dark you'd like the finish, start lighter, you can always go darker, but if its to dark, it's difficult to go back, I wouldn't even get into that part. Let it dry overnight, oil will also take longer to
completely dry, especially in humid areas.

Now you can seal. Use a brush or the sponge applicators you can toss away. Two coats are probably fine, but make sure it drys well between each coat. Then after the last coat completely drys, you can use super fine steel wool, just like your sanding, go lightly, then go back with a paste wax, purchased in a can. Use old cloths to apply, then go back with a clean cloth to polish. Looks like your done!

Well, I just gave my first on-line refinishing instructions.
Good Luck

[LookinForMayberry]

I don't have Virgod's experience, but I have refinished a couple of pieces, and advocate going down to the grain in any event. I didn't do this with a chest of drawers, and my results were uneven. Removing the layer you just applied is a real bummer.

I had a former friend that was a big advocate of hand rubbed tung oil, but he worked with hardwoods, and I am not sure that plain white pine would provide interesting results. If you do go that route, my understanding is that you still want to seal it with a clear finish, because the plain oiled finish is so sensitive to spills, etc.

When you are finished, will you post a photo for us to admire?

[Deez Nuttz]

I can take some photos. In fact I'm thinking of taking a few before I go much further.

Of course this will not be done for at least another 2-3 weeks. I work a little on it when i can.

[LookinForMayberry]

Given the nature of the task, I cannot imagine doing it quickly! Take your time, enjoy the process. I'll keep an eye out for the pics. Have fun. 8)

[JFRRACING]

i am in the process of staining kitchen cabnets and a 60+ year old dresser and there is nothing quick about staining. just don't rush if you want a quality job. it takes a few days for stain to dry. i have been working on cabnets in my garage and have kept a fan going to get them to dry faster. the end result will be pretty awesome if you do. you said you had cardboard bottom drawers right ? if you are going to all this work and plan on keeping this piece of furniture for a long time you might want to think about puting in new drawer bottoms since you doing all this work. i know i wouldn't leave those bottoms in. jmho

[Va-Cat]

I don't see it mentioned by anyone so I thought I'd better bring it up. You may want to verify before you start to refinish it as to whether the piece has a veneer finish or if its solid wood. If its veneer you will have to be careful that the stripper you use doesn't lift the veneer on the edges and that you do not sand though it to the wood (or composite material) that is underneath. If you plan to stain the piece rather than paint, be especially careful sanding on corners and edges. The veneer and the base will take stain differently if you accidently sand the veneer away.

[Ninjahedge]

Please pardon the pun, but when I first read this I could not help thinking of you trying to get your parents into some more modern attire....

[Deez Nuttz]

Originally Posted by Va-Cat

I don't see it mentioned by anyone so I thought I'd better bring it up. You may want to verify before you start to refinish it as to whether the piece has a veneer finish or if its solid wood. If its veneer you will have to be careful that the stripper you use doesn't lift the veneer on the edges and that you do not sand though it to the wood (or composite material) that is underneath. If you plan to stain the piece rather than paint, be especially careful sanding on corners and edges. The veneer and the base will take stain differently if you accidently sand the veneer away.

I'm pretty sure it's solid wood, but what's veneer and how can I tell?

I know it's not particle board and formica, if that's what you mean.

[LookinForMayberry]

Veneer implies any thin layer of wood laid over another material that may (or not) have wood as a component. It was a way for the furniture industry to cheapen the cost (and quality) of a piece, while still providing the appearance.

Modern life -- so caught up in the appearance, rather than the substance.