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OK, I purchased a heavy wood and iron pedistal table, with a 45" glass top. It is beautiful...but...while sitting at it, if you lean on it to get up, the glass top tips.
There are cheap suction cups (the kind you put on glass windows to hang stuff) that are supposed to hold the glass top...but they don't.
Would any of you handy men have any suggestions as to how I could secure that glass top to the pedestal using something that isn't unattractive?
Without pics it is hard to imagine your exact problem. Sounds as thou the glass sits freely, not within the top.
I think clear silicone adhesive is your answer thou.
Yes, I was thinking the same....thanks so much
to give you a better idea, it's an oddly shaped wood and back metal pedestal, with a 48" width beveled glass top....(measured it last night)
this is the table, to will give you an idea of what I'm talking about...
we don't use it much, as it's simply our little kitchenette off the kitchen, but wanted to secure the glass top to the pedistal, presently it's simply setting on the top of the pedistal...and it is very heavy glass, but if someone uses it as a brace to get up, it will tip.
The silicone you suggest, will you be able to see it thru the glass
Fascinating photo, which graphically points out the problem. Since the chairs have no arms, people naturally use the top of the table to brace themselves when getting up. Having the glass tip and slide onto aunt Sally, who misjudges her need for support, and break her 80 year old leg is a real possibility, and her attorney would have an absolute field day.
The reality, as you have learned, is that you have a beautiful but totally dangerous arrangement. Personally, I'd not take the risk, and would remove the table top, get an 18" one and use the table as a side table. I'd then replace the main table with something MUCH more solid and suitable.
If you must have the table, the relatively narrow bottom needs to be seriously weighted or even bolted to the floor. The glass top can have holes drilled in it to secure it to the base with some decent looking finish bolts. Dabs of silicone will hold until you most need it to hold and then fail, and if the table is joined into a unit, it will ALL fall over when heavy weight is applied at the edge.
Seriously, the design of the room is clean, but so people-unfriendly that it would fail a Freshman interior design class in the college I attended. The only people who might find regular use of it comfortable is young adults who have worked on their abs. No guest with a hernia, or past major operation, or general weakness, would find it comfortable or safe. It is entirely the wrong use of an inherently unstable table design. Sorry to have to be so blunt, and I realize that considering something like what I have brought up is not what is considered when trying to put together a class high-end room, but successful form ultimately follows function. I've seen much worse errors.
I have to agree with Harry here. The set up is too dainty. The table is more of a corner or hallway table. The chairs without arms are asking for trouble here. I was given a set of chairs like that, we ended up donating them to the local live theatre.
ok, first you have to know, this isn't my formal dining table and it gets used very little.
2nd. the pedistal is large, and the glass top is very heavy, so when you do lean on it, all it does is tip a bit...it doesn't fall....and the pedistal is very very very heavy, so that doesn't tip either.
I'm looking for a solution to permanently glue the glass top to the pedistal...., would clear silicone work in your opinion.
"I'm looking for a solution to permanently glue the glass top to the pedistal...., would clear silicone work in your opinion."
No. Two part epoxy comes in clear and would a better choice, but you have to take into account that glass presents a minimal surface area for adhesion compared to wood or porous substances, and you are asking the glued surfaces to hold when pulled apart at an angle, which is much easier than an attempt at sliding them apart or even doing a direct lift. Think of the glued area as one side of a fulcrum, and the glass being pushed down as a lever. The point of fulcrum will be the glued area closest to the pushed down glass. If the glued area is an inch in diameter, and the table extends out a foot, then the lever will pull the far end of the glue up with a force that is a dozen times the force applied to the edge of the glass. The epoxy itself will hold, the glass will likely hold, but the bonding point between glass and base would be under considerable stress. You also would need to know how strong the finish on the base is. If it is a finished plaster, forget it. The finish will release or the plaster crack. If it is wood, and you can get direct contact with the actual wood over a broad area, then maybe. If the base has been waxed, chances of a successful outcome are very slim.
As I mentioned before, drilling and bolting is about the only non-cosmetic attachment that would have assured integrity. Had the unit been glued at the time of manufacture, under controlled conditions and with the design worked up to accommodate it, then it would likely work. Gluing after the fact likely won't.
My glass table top has two sided suction cups that are about 3/4" across, but they came with the table...so I don't know where you could find them... and you can see them through the glass...You will see anything you use through the glass..
Have a welder make four arms for the table.. from the metal part of the table base to the outer edge of the glass top..He can make them out of square tubing and by cutting off three edges on the part that is going to hold up the glass at an angle he can wrap it up the outer edge of the glass about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.. He will know how to cut it to fit flat to the table..
Just looking at the picture the base looks pretty heavy to me...That metal work isn't lite weight is it?
Houston3, you may be on to something. The arms would be much better than glue or silicone. Along those lines, a welder could make a ring. If the table is 48", a ring from 32" to 36" in diameter, attached to the base for the glass to rest on, would also stabilize things without changing the "floating" impression of stuff on the tabletop too severely. I was too involved in the silicone and glue issues to think outside of holes and bolts. Good catch.
Houston3, you may be on to something. The arms would be much better than glue or silicone. Along those lines, a welder could make a ring. If the table is 48", a ring from 32" to 36" in diameter, attached to the base for the glass to rest on, would also stabilize things without changing the "floating" impression of stuff on the tabletop too severely. I was too involved in the silicone and glue issues to think outside of holes and bolts. Good catch.
The ring is a good idea...It would give even more support.. Hook the new arms to the ring...
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