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Old 02-19-2015, 09:45 AM
 
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I need a way to not hear my neighbors, the landlord said i can "build" a wall on top the wall as long as it is not permanent, i can use anything that i can screw or nail in and can be removed. but not physically attach it with glue. I was thinking of using t1-11 siding but does it have formaldehyde? What else could I use. It can not be drywall since it would be more permanent. Any suggestions or ideas? I can hear their tv and them talking. But I love my rental townhome and don't want to move.
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:19 AM
 
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I called, home depot, lowes and a local lumber yard and they all said I should install a foam barrier and then install t1-11 siding since I would like a cabin look on my wall. Is t1-11 siding safe to use indoors? I questioned all 3 and they said it was. But I still am unsure of its safety for indoor use.
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:34 AM
 
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T-11 is ridiculously expensive for what you're trying to accomplish. You want to add mass and absorption, the cheapest way of doing that is to add a soft layer (sound board or rigid insulating foam) and a hard, heavy layer like MDF/HDF.

You probably will not be able to block everything as some sound will still travel through the studs in the surrounding ceilings and walls, through duct work, etc... Real sound isolation is pretty complex and expensive so don't expect a $100 solution to be perfect. But it will help a lot.
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:46 AM
 
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Oh Im not looking for a complete solution, just something to dampen the sound. The suggestion of t1-11 came up because I am going to be here for several years and I wanted a rustic look since all my decor is Adirondack style, my wall is 8 foot tall by 12 foot long.
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:00 PM
 
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The only drawback to making the finish part of the sound barrier is if you get done building it and decide you need another layer, you either have to pull it apart or cover over it. You could also go with a thinner or even a non-solid (tongue and groove) paneling for the finish if it weren't doubling as a structural element. You could also glue the paneling and hide the fastners if you went this route, while still maintaining the ability to to unscrew the wall itself when you move.

My first attempt on this wall was less than fully successful because I screwed up staining the finish which was supposed to be natural cork. Cork has good sound deadening properties and can be attractive. Unfortunately due to the stain error, I ended up paneling over it. The cork still helps with the sound, but it was an expensive material to just end up as part of the internal mass.
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Old 02-19-2015, 01:01 PM
 
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I went and bought 3 pieces of t1-11 and some R4 insulation board 3/4 in. x 2 ft. x 8 ft. here it is leaning against the wall, now I'm not sure if I like it lol the other pic is the other side of the room which is our dining room

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Old 02-19-2015, 01:21 PM
 
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Is that a baseboard heater at the bottom of the wall?
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Old 02-19-2015, 01:25 PM
 
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yes hot water
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by missyklo View Post
yes hot water
Well, that complicates it a bit. Assuming you use it, you need to leave clearance for convection.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:54 PM
 
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You mean space above the heater? Im going to cut the piece to fit around the baseboard heater part, as it doesn't go the full length of the wall. So, are you saying I will still have an issue even after cutting it out? I mean will it affect the wood by placing it above the heater?
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