Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Ok, so I've got this new, solid wood (Fir) door that is now sized and fits. Now I've got it back off the hinges and in the shop to start finishing it. It's a Simpson door.
We're not going to stain it, we're going to paint it black on the outside, and bright white on the inside. It'll be protected by a Pella all-glass storm door. It faces NW.
Spoke with a paint shop, and the recommendation is to first use an "extreme bond primer", followed by a water-based alkyd urethane paint (black).
Does this sound appropriate for a wooden door to protect it from the elements? Not seeing anything oil-related here in this recommendation. Is that a concern?
Ok, so I've got this new, solid wood (Fir) door that is now sized and fits. Now I've got it back off the hinges and in the shop to start finishing it. It's a Simpson door.
We're not going to stain it, we're going to paint it black on the outside, and bright white on the inside. It'll be protected by a Pella all-glass storm door. It faces NW.
Spoke with a paint shop, and the recommendation is to first use an "extreme bond primer", followed by a water-based alkyd urethane paint (black).
Does this sound appropriate for a wooden door to protect it from the elements? Not seeing anything oil-related here in this recommendation. Is that a concern?
thanks!
I don't understand the question. urethane paint would not be oil paint. if you want to use oil based paint, I think you would need a different primer. Since you have questions, visit a S-W or Benjamin Moore paint store and get specific recs for paint. I think your white paint will need to be a latex satin or gloss finish, and your exterior paint should be made for exteriors.
If there is a reputable local paint manufacturer in your area, you could certainly talk to them instead of the two I recommend.
We always got good info from our local Ben Moore paint store where I lived before for 26 years. They gave us consistently good advice.
In the old days I would probably have treated the end grain at top and bottom with boiled linseed oil, let that soak in for a few days, (or Thompson's Water Seal, a couple coats) then primed and painted with oil based paints inside and out.
That said, there are some high quality non-oil-based paints out there that appear worth considering.
I still think your first consideration needs to be the end grain at top and bottom. I still revert in my mind to Thompson's Water Seal and I would expect you could apply a non-oil-based paint over it, but it should be confirmed by someone at a good paint store.
Frankly if you wanted to paint the door it was a waste to get fir. The natural oils in fir will battle any primer you put on it and very likely lead to a flaky / cracked looking mess of a door regardless of having a storm door as the "attack" comes from the wood itself... Dark colored paints are especially problematic as even in mild climate the combination of solar absorption and the glass of the storm door creates what is essentially an little "sun powered oven" and as such will void the warranty -- Door Care & Finishing | Simpson Door Company
The details on that page detail the proper sequence and recommended multi-coat finish procedure. It probably would have been smarter to get a factory finished door...
Thanks guys, I think I've got the route to take now. My approach is via advice from Sherwin Williams.
While the door will be facing the afternoon sun, its not like an Arizona type setup. There will be shady points as well during the day. True, it will get warm for a few hours during the summer months, it's not deathly warm in there. Quite frankly, if the door can't handle it, then it's a crap door, which I really don't think it is. If I've got to repaint the door every couple of years, so be it. I've had hardwood doors in my past in other homes that didn't give us headaches and were in hot and humid environments with storm door protection (Alabama and North Carolina). Not arguing with your guidance here, but if I get 5 years out of this door, I'm fine with it. Ultimately the entire door assembly will be pulled out and replaced anyway at some point in the future. Just trying to prolong that cost while not having to stare at that other nasty door that has been there for 17 years, all chewed up by the previous owner's dogs and beat to snot. At $1,500 for 5 years, that's less than one single trip to Costco per year for us.
If you properly treat the door and keep it painted, your 5 years life is off by at least a factor of 10.
I have a similar door on my 78 year old house, the original door, and it is still in fine shape. I don't know what species it is, but I suspect it's yellow pine based on the location and age.
Don't set your expectations so low. Remember, mending is better than ending.
I would guess you would need to repaint about every 8-10 years.
By the way, fir is not a hardwood, it is a softwood; fir is a conifer.
Who is going to warrant the paint job? I hope you don't think Sherwin Williams will warrant it. Let me give you a hint, they don't warrant much of anything. It's always the applicators fault. I'd strongly suggest going with whatever the paint shop recommended. They're the one that will be standing behind the paint job.
Quote:
urethane paint would not be oil paint
We use an oil based urethane all the time. It one of my favorite finishes in full gloss. Goes on great, no paint brush tracks, just looks like a factory finish when we get finished. Super hard, easy to clean, takes a beating, it's one the best paints out there especially on new work.
If you properly treat the door and keep it painted, your 5 years life is off by at least a factor of 10.
I have a similar door on my 78 year old house, the original door, and it is still in fine shape. I don't know what species it is, but I suspect it's yellow pine based on the location and age.
Don't set your expectations so low. Remember, mending is better than ending.
I would guess you would need to repaint about every 8-10 years.
By the way, fir is not a hardwood, it is a softwood; fir is a conifer.
While it true that fir is a conifer, and that is really what accounts for its uniquely "turpentine" type resistance to paints, its "hardness" is better than some other types of "pine" -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test
The big "pluses" of fir are its excellent dimensional stability and superior appearance -- Douglas Fir and Western Larch
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
