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I always use a product called "Liquid Sand" to "degloss" wood so that the primer will adhere to it. I am not the most patient person, and I lose interest in doing a good job sanding after about ten minutes. The liquid sand accomplishes the same thing with just a wipe of a rag.
When painting cabinets or furniture I paint the crevices with a brush, and then I use a small sponge roller over the whole thing to eliminate the brush strokes.
Oh I am right there with you, thats what has been holding me back from getting this done. I'm glad you mentioned the name of the product because I had seen liquid sand used on TV but didn't remember the name.
I have a bad shoulder and arthritis in my hand and sanding wears me out in nothing flat. I will be using this stuff to get the job done. Many of the items I need to paint have intricate surfaces to sand, so this stuff will help.
I have a kitchen table and hutch set that I bought at an unfinished furniture store long time ago and had all except top painted in the offwhite w/antiqued look. I loved it in my old house and it was great when kids were small but in my newer house the kitchen has dark cabinets w/black accents and I would like to change it to black. Would I have to sand it down first or could I just paint over a light sanding?
I have a kitchen table and hutch set that I bought at an unfinished furniture store long time ago and had all except top painted in the offwhite w/antiqued look. I loved it in my old house and it was great when kids were small but in my newer house the kitchen has dark cabinets w/black accents and I would like to change it to black. Would I have to sand it down first or could I just paint over a light sanding?
Sand to de-gloss the paint finish and sand off any lumps/bumps so it is smooth, then you should be able to paint over it again.
What type of paint would I use? I'd like to spray b/c the chairs are windsor and that would be a lot of spindles.
Spraying can be a good choice. Be sure to get your technique down before doing the furniture. I would use a gloss or semi-gloss paint, but the choice depends on what you want. You could also do a glaze over the paint (after it dries) to get a different effect. For something like furniture, some like to paint, then apply a polyurethane varnish to make the finish stronger.
I know this is an old thread, I remembered reading it...I have a rocking chair, bought from Michaels, the 'finish yourself" type. When I bought it, I wouldn't let my dad stain it, he always went for DARK DARK DARK stain and I hate that. He just lightly sanded and put linseed oil on it.
It was always my intention to paint, just never did. Now I am going to, and need some help. If I just sand lightly again, wipe down, do I need to prime it? I want to paint it so I can use it outdoors or indoors. Have visions of creativity, maybe a design, will have to see...
I'm about to paint my coffee table and end tables black. Will simply sanding them suffice? I can't be around odors, so didn't want to get into the liquid sand or whatever it's called, and was hoping a light sanding would do.
Suggestions?
Painting or repainting is quite interesting job to do.
Sharing some tips about How to :
Make sure there's no chance that your piece of furniture is an antique whose value could be destroyed by changing the finish.
Set up your work area in a well-ventilated place with nothing around that could produce flames or sparks.
Remove drawer pulls and other hardware. Place the furniture on a layer of newspaper or a disposable drop cloth.
Sand the piece of furniture until smooth with fine-grit sandpaper or liquid sander. Wear gloves, safety goggles and a dust mask.
Remove any residual sawdust with a hand vacuum, brush or barely damp rag - you don't want to wet the wood.
Apply a coat of either white brush-on or gray spray-on water-based primer, depending on the size and area of the piece of furniture you intend to cover.
Allow the primer to become dry to the touch; this usually takes 1 to 2 hours. If you're not sure, read the recommended drying time on your can of primer.
* Don't work outside even if it's a nice day because leaves, dirt, etc. can blow onto your piece. Work indoors in a well-ventilated area as Jeane211 stated. Working indoors gives you a controlled environment. It is important to keep the area around your piece free of dust, hairs, etc. Otherwise it will end up on your finish!
* Never sand an antique! It brings down the value.
* Sanding is imperative if you want to completely remove the old stain and paint. Older pieces of furniture were sealed with varnish or shellac. If you try to put a newer stain or sealer (i.e., something with polyurethane) without sanding, the chemicals will react and your paint will not adhere to the surface.
* If you need to repair anything, fill in gouges, or caulk seams, do this before priming. Use paintable wood putty for holes. If you fill holes, let the putty dry completely and watch for shrinkage! You may need to fill the hole again. Let dry completely and sand. If you use caulk, make sure you're neat and wipe away and drops or goop. Also, make sure it is a paintable caulk.
* Be sure to let your piece dry thoroughly after priming and between coats. Otherwise the paint may bubble or flake off when dried.
* If you are putting several coats of paint on your piece, it's best to use several thin coats versus one thick coat that you glop on.
* Don't paint below 55 degrees or over 100 degrees or if it's too humid or rainy. This affects the paint adhesion.
* Some people sand between coats to get a super-fine finish. If you sand, use a Very Fine Grit sandpaper (like 000)
Heres a question: We are moving into a smaller rental home. The dining room space is extremely small..the carpet is the old green color...we have a table that was given to us..the top is the lighter wood color and the legs are white chipped paint...we would like to paint them...do we stay with the white distressed color...or go more on a creamy yellow distressed color?
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