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Old 10-11-2010, 06:57 AM
 
7,332 posts, read 3,542,684 times
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What can be the problem?
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:05 PM
 
Location: Southwest Pa
1,440 posts, read 4,215,723 times
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You'll have to be a bit more specific. Miles? Does it do it hot or cold? All the time? Have you done any work on it recently? Tell us as much as you can and I'm sure you'll get replies.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:23 PM
 
Location: Pomona
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If it's rough at idle, but smooths out at higher rpms, I'd check for vacuum leaks first.
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:19 PM
 
7,332 posts, read 3,542,684 times
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The repair shop says the problem is a burnt valve and they want to replace all the gaskets and valves for a total of $1500.00! The car has 150,000 miles on it...
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:20 PM
 
Location: Meeami
534 posts, read 2,319,667 times
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It could be a burnt valve. Only a compression test or leakdown test would tell that tho, assuming they did that. When that happened to my accord, it was the openings on the fuel rail had carbon buildup. Cleaning those out with a rotary tool, fixed it. The honda tech diagnosed it, not I.

I dont see anyone doing $1500 in work on that car/engine. I'd think you would just put another junkyard motor in it at that point. Which will still cost the same, installed.

More details may help us imagine what it could be.
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:47 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tillman7 View Post
The repair shop says the problem is a burnt valve and they want to replace all the gaskets and valves for a total of $1500.00! The car has 150,000 miles on it...
What's the overall condition of the car? Where do you live, rust country or not?

If you do have a burnt valve, yeah, the fix would be to pull the head off, replace at least that valve, probably replace at least all the exhaust valves, put all back together with new head gasket and timing belt.

That's a fairly big job but assuming the engine is otherwise in good condition this would result in an engine anyway that you can drive a good 60 to 90K more miles with little more than spark plug and oil changes.

If the rest of the car is in good condition and you like it, fix it. If not, don't.

For $1500 you should be getting the head fully reconditioned, new valves, new valve stem seals, etc.
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:59 AM
 
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The car is in excellent condition! It's been well serviced the past 19 years, mostly by the dealer. I live in Georgia. I like the car because it's paid for and I don't have a car note.
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:22 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
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If it makes you feel any better, at 150K your head gasket is getting long in the tooth anyway, probably you would have it leak by around 200K. Shop around, you may be able to find a "good ol' boy" type garage where you can get this done and done right for a bit less than $1500. Although, that's about a fair price to do this right.

Depending, you may very well want to replace all the exhaust valves.

If you fix it, pay attention to the valve adjust interval, particularly the first one needed after a rebuild. Dollars to donuts your burnt valve was due to it being too tight.
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:21 PM
 
7,332 posts, read 3,542,684 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
If it makes you feel any better, at 150K your head gasket is getting long in the tooth anyway, probably you would have it leak by around 200K. Shop around, you may be able to find a "good ol' boy" type garage where you can get this done and done right for a bit less than $1500. Although, that's about a fair price to do this right.

Depending, you may very well want to replace all the exhaust valves.

If you fix it, pay attention to the valve adjust interval, particularly the first one needed after a rebuild. Dollars to donuts your burnt valve was due to it being too tight.

I found someone that will do the job for 950.00! Thanks for the advice. I purchased the car in January 1991, this is the first major repair on the car in 19 years!
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:04 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
16,408 posts, read 53,583,831 times
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The cheapest bid is not necessarily the best. But it may be. Make sure you are getting high-quality parts, and probably it's worth considering replacing all the exhaust valves anyway. Depends on what shape they are in. If you just had one tight valve and it burned, you may only need to replace that.

You should be getting a new timing belt and water pump as part of this. Will add to the cost now but save you going in to do them later.
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