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OP, your cam belt may or may not have anything to do with the car not starting, but, if you have more than about 60K miles on it, you need to change it or have a shop change it, if you find the cost of a TB replacement high, try what it will cost to replace the head with a rebuilt unit (at least) if you break it.
Older Hondas can be bought for relatively cheap prices and are fairly tolerant of neglect, but, this is the one maintenance item where "not trying to fix what ain't broke" will cost you, bigtime.
If you take off the oil filler cap and look inside while someone turns the engine over and you cant see the cams moving then your timing belt is broke.
That's an easy test, but I have a 92 Accord and have had the same non-start situation that you have and both were easy repairs and had nothing to do with with the timing belt.
1) Main Relay gone bad = no start on hot days (A bad Main relay will cause the fuel pump not to work, but you will still have spark)
2) Bad Distributor = seems like a flooded engine (You will have fuel, but you won't have spark)
Bottom line is there are many things that can be wrong here. Take 1 step at a time for proper diagnosis.
I wish you the best and least costly repair.
Last edited by johnfrisco; 09-24-2009 at 07:36 PM..
I know its not the cam belt because it has been changed. Plus I got it to start earlier today I didnt drive it to see how it ran because I didnt have to time to mess with it.
I think it could be something with the fuel system because I ran out of gas and after that happened all of the non-starting happen.
So I am not sure but I do not think that it is the main relay because I have read on that some had the same problem and took it in to a dealer had the them replace the main relay and that didnt fix the problem.
As far as the distributor I am not sure I havent looked at it yet but I dont think that would be the problem I believe it is the Ignition Module. Thanks for all of the help if anyone doesnt think that could be it please tell me so.
As far as the distributor I am not sure I havent looked at it yet but I dont think that would be the problem I believe it is the Ignition Module. Thanks for all of the help if anyone doesnt think that could be it please tell me so.
If you hold the key in start, does the engine stay on and then die when you release the key? I had that problem, the ignition switch was bad. About $100 parts and labor.
I know its not the cam belt because it has been changed. Plus I got it to start earlier today I didnt drive it to see how it ran because I didnt have to time to mess with it.
I think it could be something with the fuel system because I ran out of gas and after that happened all of the non-starting happen.
So I am not sure but I do not think that it is the main relay because I have read on that some had the same problem and took it in to a dealer had the them replace the main relay and that didnt fix the problem.
As far as the distributor I am not sure I havent looked at it yet but I dont think that would be the problem I believe it is the Ignition Module. Thanks for all of the help if anyone doesnt think that could be it please tell me so.
I am not going to be rude, but why the hell would you run the car out of gas? The fuel pump is lubricated by gas, and even running it low will destroy it. It is like saying, "I ran the engine with no oil, but I refilled the oil and it still will not run" I was surprised to read this thread because I know those are good cars, but they can only take so much abuse....
I think it could be something with the fuel system because I ran out of gas and after that happened all of the non-starting happen.
Any particular reason you didn't put that info in your first post?
You may have clogged the pump and filter with all the crap that had settled in the bottom of the tank.
Most likely you fried the fuel pump. Not only does fuel lubricate the pump, it also cools it.
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and try to start it. I believe it should be between 35-40 lbs.
You do realize it's almost impossible to diagnose a car over the internet, don't you? Everyone can only give you their best opinion based on the info you give us.
I had a 1991 Honda Accord (same engine as the 1993) in 2001-2003. It did this once and it turned out being something within the distributor cap.
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The fuel pump is lubricated by gas, and even running it low will destroy it. It is like saying, "I ran the engine with no oil, but I refilled the oil and it still will not run"
I was surprised to read this thread because I know those are good cars, but they can only take so much abuse....
