Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I enjoyed reading this thread. I do garage floors for a living and I always love to see people do something the correct way, you did a good job.
If you do the other garage floor stay away from the lowes and home depot epoxy. The solid content is very low making adhesion very poor regardless of how good your prep is. Also try a polyurethane or polyurea topcoat for longevity.
I would use the same stuff again, and use the expansion joints in that surface as my natural "edges" between sections. The problem with the other slab was that it was one giant continuous surface with no seams or expansion joints at all.
I think the floor looks great and I wonder if it would work equally well for a basement floor? Thanks also for the tip on the Liftmaster 3800. I intend to build a garage this winter and will look for that door system. Love it!
I think the floor looks great and I wonder if it would work equally well for a basement floor? Thanks also for the tip on the Liftmaster 3800. I intend to build a garage this winter and will look for that door system. Love it!
It would be fine for a basement floor, but may be overkill for the area depending on use. I'd consider a less expensive but similar product for a light use floor. I'll be dragging tools, jacks, jackstands, etc over this floor, so I wanted a tough surface. You might not need that for a basement floor.
Man, I love that garage door. Definitely something I'll need to look into for the future. I have a belt drive opener which is nice and quite but it sits right in the middle of the ceiling.
Do you think you'll have moisture problems with the concrete? I held off doing my floor when it was brand new because I was afraid of moisture being trapped under the coating and causing it to lift.
Do you think you'll have moisture problems with the concrete? I held off doing my floor when it was brand new because I was afraid of moisture being trapped under the coating and causing it to lift.
First, make sure you wait 35-40 days after the slab is poured. Then tape thick plastic down with duct (not painters) tape and let sit for 48 hours. If you see no moisture underneath, it should be dry. You also need to check for grease and other contaminants before prepping.
Hahaha maybe. I could use more friends with excellent epoxy floor application skills!
I'll have you know I'm not very good at it! You'd be taking your chances with me!
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
