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Old 10-05-2010, 07:04 PM
 
11 posts, read 49,266 times
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I'm replacing my deck and removed the ledger and foamboard sheathing behind it, and have a question about the framing I found.

The plywood subfloor does not come out flush to the rim joist and bottom plate. It is about 1" short so the bottom plate of the wall is overhanging. In some places I can see a crack of daylight at the top of the rim joist when looking out from the basement.

Should I shim this gap with something, just for piece of mind if no other reason? I live in tornado country and worry about these things. The house is two story and 25 years old

What should I use to shim it? I have a table saw at my disposal.





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Old 10-05-2010, 07:48 PM
QIS
 
919 posts, read 5,148,435 times
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Hi beckett
Heck yes! That's a great idea. I would probably stick your shim/spacer material in there with some exterior rated construction adhesive. What do you think about the rest of the house?
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:05 PM
 
11 posts, read 49,266 times
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Should I just rip 2x4s to a tight fit and hammer it in there with some glue? Or is there a better wood to use for such a heavy weight above? I think I might chisel off the "tongue" part of the plywood so the shim snugs right in there.

I haven't seen the rest of the house, only the section where the deck was. I'd assume it is flush to with the rim/plate on the other 3 walls.
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:13 PM
 
Location: Full time RV"er
2,404 posts, read 6,578,949 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beckett View Post
Should I just rip 2x4s to a tight fit and hammer it in there with some glue? Or is there a better wood to use for such a heavy weight above? I think I might chisel off the "tongue" part of the plywood so the shim snugs right in there.

I haven't seen the rest of the house, only the section where the deck was. I'd assume it is flush to with the rim/plate on the other 3 walls.
Not necessary Just cut the spacer and then put flat hurricane straps over that. Same straps used for holding trusses together. Should due the trick in any storm.
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:03 PM
QIS
 
919 posts, read 5,148,435 times
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"Should I just rip 2x4s to a tight fit and hammer it in there with some glue?"

Yes, you are going to be fine with that technique and your typical 2 x 4 material will do. You can chisel if you wish; I see it either way.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:33 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,475 posts, read 66,054,754 times
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The only thing you will "gain" by filling that gap is personal satisfaction. You will not have any "physical/engineering gains".
But I would suggest while you have the opportunity, add tie-down straps such as these from Simpson:
CS/CMST Coiled Straps

As far as the deck itself- here is Simpson's deck connection guide:
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/F-DECKCODE09.pdf

And IRC's code requirements for decks:
http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

And it might be a good idea to check with the convening authority- most municipalities and counties will supersede certain parts of the IRC's codes and/or ignore others.

Last edited by K'ledgeBldr; 10-06-2010 at 07:51 AM..
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:05 AM
 
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Are those some kind of insect mud tubes/nests in the first picture?
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:39 AM
 
23,600 posts, read 70,412,676 times
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I'd clean it out, do the straps as suggested, then fill with expanding foam and a temporary board, then remove the board and trim off the excess foam. That would limit bug issues and give a tiny bit better seal against any air intrusion.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:30 PM
 
11 posts, read 49,266 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHTransplant View Post
Are those some kind of insect mud tubes/nests in the first picture?
They are mud dauber wasp nests. There was only foamboard sheathing covering it so it was easy for them to get in. I'm going to replace the foam sheathing with zip system OSB.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:47 PM
 
11 posts, read 49,266 times
Reputation: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
The only thing you will "gain" by filling that gap is personal satisfaction. You will not have any "physical/engineering gains".
But I would suggest while you have the opportunity, add tie-down straps such as these from Simpson:
CS/CMST Coiled Straps

As far as the deck itself- here is Simpson's deck connection guide:
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/F-DECKCODE09.pdf

And IRC's code requirements for decks:
http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

And it might be a good idea to check with the convening authority- most municipalities and counties will supersede certain parts of the IRC's codes and/or ignore others.
Hurricane ties is a good idea I hadn't thought of that.

The rim joist in my picture is from the lower floor. It sits on the sill plate which is on top of the concrete basement.

Would this tie be ok?



Or should I use the flat kind you guys mentioned, but attach the bottom to the sill plate, instead of the lower wall stud as in the picture?






There are no codes for decks where I live but I have designed everything according to the 2009 irc. I'm going to put 2x10 blocking between the floor joists behind the rim and attach the ledger with 5" Ledgerloks screws. A couple sections of the rim joist were replaced because it was slightly rotted so that's the reason for the blocking. Although looking back it probably wasn't necessary to replace it because it wasn't very bad. I could have just filled it with epoxy and used the blocking behind.
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