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Anyone used this stuff? Looking to put about 1 inch on my concrete basement walls,prior to studding,but after installing dricore floor tiles.Would DYI it with spray kit.Is it easy to apply?Does it go on evenly? I don't trust the websites reviews,so I figured I'll ask here.
Easy to apply? Depends on how good you are with a sprayer.
Go on evenly? Pretty much the same as above.
Not sure exactly what kind you are looking at, but for the most part, the spray on foam is effective. However, it's messy and quite honestly not something I'd recommend as a DIY project for the average homeowner.
If you are going to DIY it must be some form of closed cell foam like Tiger Foam. Tigerfoam does nto allow water to pass through it. I am not sure how well it will stick to basement walls that are constantly damp. It is very very expensive. The one person who I know that used Tigerfoam found it pretty easy to apply and loves it.
OPen cell foams like ICYNENE can only be installed by professionals as far as I know. It is much cheaper, allows water to pass through, but is not as good an insulator as closed cell foam. WE have ICYNENE in much of our house and my BIL used it in his basmeent. It works great and has very nice sound dampening qualities as well as insulation.
If you are talking about that "Great Stuff" type foam that comes in small cans, you are asking for trouble. Among other problems (like small cans) it tends to harden up and crumble after a few years.
Spray foam kits that are available on the open market are not DIY. They are for sucking money out of your wallet.
Over the years I have done many a basement finish. The best, easiest, cleanest, and fastest way to insulate foundation walls is with rigid foam board.
And the best way to install it is with a powder actuated fastener. Don't use adhesive- it fails after awhile. I like to install it staggered horizontally- that way there are no continuous seams from top to bottom. Others like to install vertically. I guess it really doesn't matter- the main thing is to cap the top of the foundation wall. So that the entire foundation wall is "encapsulated" within the rigid board. Then seal all seams with sealing tape.
the two major players are: Owens Corning
FOAMULAR®
Insulating Sheathing
You can purchase the board in several different thicknesses- including 1". Standard size is 4X8- but some can be had in a 4X9 sheet.
You should end up with something like this:
I did nto want to use that stuff because it produces dangerous fumes in a fire. We could not afford ICYNENE in the basement so we just used fiberglass batt. It works fine. The basement is comfortable.
If you are going to DIY it must be some form of closed cell foam like Tiger Foam. Tigerfoam does nto allow water to pass through it. I am not sure how well it will stick to basement walls that are constantly damp. It is very very expensive. The one person who I know that used Tigerfoam found it pretty easy to apply and loves it.
OPen cell foams like ICYNENE can only be installed by professionals as far as I know. It is much cheaper, allows water to pass through, but is not as good an insulator as closed cell foam. WE have ICYNENE in much of our house and my BIL used it in his basmeent. It works great and has very nice sound dampening qualities as well as insulation.
If you are talking about that "Great Stuff" type foam that comes in small cans, you are asking for trouble. Among other problems (like small cans) it tends to harden up and crumble after a few years.
Looking to do something like a "Foam it Green" 97% closed cell,two part kit w/mixing nozzle,largest covers about 600 sq ft to a 1 inch thickness,and an R value of 6 to 7.Total Sq Footage of the job is about 800 Square.So I would probably buy one large kit (605 sq ft),and one small kit (200 sq ft).Mostly looking for a fire rated water barrier,basement itself is dry,no water in the ten years I have been there.Applied drylock to the walls ten years back,and it has never discolored in any way,on any part of the walls.
I did nto want to use that stuff because it produces dangerous fumes in a fire. We could not afford ICYNENE in the basement ...
It does'nt burn easily but, when it does ignite it can contribute to flame spread and out gasses toxic vapors when it burns. Almost any spray applied or rigid foam board product will have these same issues.
It is addressed by the IRC/sec. R314.2.3 which specifies it must be covered with a proper fire barrier such as 1/2 inch drywall, wafer board or plywood.
Foam insulation is relatively hard to ignite (all manufacturers now install an ignition barrier along with the moisture vapor lining) but when ignited, it burns readily and emits a dense, black, smoke containing many toxic gases. The combustion characteristics of foam insulation products vary with temperature and available air.
Because of the dangers described above, foams used for construction require a covering as a fire barrier. One half-inch thick (1.27 cm) gypsum wallboard is one of the most common fire barriers. Some building codes, however, do not require an additional fire barrier for certain metal-faced laminated foam products. These are considered stand alone products.
Check with your local building code/fire officials, and insurers for specific information on what is permitted in your area- most require the d/wall and that's it.
basement itself is dry,no water in the ten years I have been there.Applied drylock to the walls ten years back,and it has never discolored in any way,on any part of the walls.
If that's the case-
I'd fore-go the foam; just stud and insulate with unfaced f/glass batts.
You'll get around an R-15 total (subterraneum poured concrete wall and f/glass batts for 2X4 wall)
Rigid foam board is not only the easiest, fastest and easiest way to insulate a basement. It is the method recommended by the U.S. Department of Energy, as the safest and most efficient for basements and below grade structures.
Foam board is 100% waterproof, inorganic and, does not absorb water, thus eliminating the main 3 components that would support mold growth. It should be placed straight against the walls, eliminating the need for studs against the wall, which also poses a huge mold hazard.
They recommend you to seal the joints between boards and then place furry strips on top of the boards to hang drywall.
Whatever you do, do NOT use fiberglass in below grade structures. Make no mistake: even if your basement looks dry as a bone, there is always some level of ground moisture seeping through the concrete. Concrete is porous. If the ground around the foundation gets wet, the water infiltrates the walls.
Fiberglass will soak up the moisture, become wet, and as it does, it will lose almost all its R-Value.
Fiberglass also only works wen evenly spread. But when it gets wet, it sags with the weight, opening holes in the insulation blanket.
Batches are also usually held together with an urea base compost, which attracts mold.
Actually, in the waterproofing and mold remediation industries, they call fiberglass mold candy!
I am placing a link to the US Dept of Energy's Basement Insulation PDF brochure on Basement Insulation (http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/building_america/pdfs/db/35017.pdf - broken link).
I strongly suggest you take at look at it.
I did nto want to use that stuff because it produces dangerous fumes in a fire. ,,,,.
I would suggest not being in the house if it is on fire.
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