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Old 02-01-2011, 04:58 PM
 
2,879 posts, read 7,324,027 times
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Never had this done before, but basically it is 4, 46 x 34", 1 36 x 34, and one 22 x 20. It's a small bungalow in Phoenix. What should this cost for everything? The exterior walls are 3/4 in stucco, and the house was built in 1946. 2 x 4s behind the stucco, not very thick walls, but pretty solid little house. Give me your best guess. The Jeld-Wen have my interest, as do the Anderson, and some are made right here in Phoenix. I know I can buy them at Lowe's for 109 each +/-, but I would like it done very well, but it not be a bank heist.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:06 PM
 
Location: Cary, NC
791 posts, read 4,246,001 times
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Probably somewhere between 200 and 600 per opening installed, it all depends on what model window you pick. This would be for replacement windows that are inserted into the existing window frame that is in good condition. If you have wood rot or if you want "new construction" windows where the entire window frame is replaced, you really need to get an estimate from a contractor in your area - nobody here will be able to make an intelligent guess.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:12 PM
 
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currently, there are aluminum framed sliders, but the wood part is in good condition. Probably from the early 80s. 1200 would be good.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:24 PM
 
Location: Niceville, FL
10,774 posts, read 19,119,528 times
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Are you going for absolute cheapest from a known brand, or are you willing to pay a little more for energy efficiency purposes?
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:39 PM
 
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would like something that keeps the sun out.
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:50 PM
 
Location: Seaford, Delaware
3,489 posts, read 18,745,153 times
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all replecement windows are now required to have "E" glass. It keeps out the UV rays. The window itself does not have to be double pane or double hung. I would look at suppliers and see who has the type of window you want. Just make sure you compare apples to apples. They make all kinds of apples anymore
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:56 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
15,497 posts, read 57,942,040 times
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First-off, start here:
http://www.efficientwindows.org/code...placements.pdf
This is where to get the correct information for the particular "rating" that you need.
As for some additional information-
Low-emittance (Low-E) coating. Microscopically thin, virtually invisible, metal or metallic oxide layers deposited on a window or skylight glazing surface primarily to reduce the U-factor (not to be confused with uv rays) by suppressing radiative heat flow. A typical type of low-E coating is transparent to the solar spectrum (visible light and short-wave infrared radiation) and reflective of long-wave infrared radiation.
U-factor (U-value). A measure of the rate of non-solar heat loss or gain through a material or assembly. It is expressed in units of Btu/hr-sq ft-°F (US) or W/sq m-°K (European metric). Values are normally given for NFRC/ASHRAE winter conditions of 0° F (18° C) outdoor temperature, 70° F (21° C) indoor temperature, 15 mph wind, and no solar load. The U-factor may be expressed for the glass alone or the entire window (this is the unit of measure to ask for. If it's for the glass only, you have no way of knowing the true efficiency of the "unit". If a dealer or rep can't give you definitive information as to the "unit"- keep looking until you do), which includes the effect of the frame and the spacer materials. The lower the U-factor, the greater a window's resistance to heat flow and the better its insulating value.
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:22 PM
 
Location: southwestern PA
20,418 posts, read 42,303,886 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khuntrevor View Post
would like something that keeps the sun out.
LOL!
Sorry, but that gave me a chuckle....
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:07 PM
 
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Come on folks, how about some more numbers?
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Old 02-04-2011, 07:27 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
15,497 posts, read 57,942,040 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khuntrevor View Post
Come on folks, how about some more numbers?

O.K.- "7".?
Really? You do the homework!
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