Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I have a leaky valve on my gas fireplace that only leaks when the gas to the fireplace is turned on. I've had some estimates to fix this and all the fat plumbers who can't fit into my crawlspace (which is all of them) want at least $800 to fix the problem. They have admitted that if they could fit into the crawlspace, it'd be cheaper to fix. Kind of stupid that I have to pay for a more expensive solution because they're too fat to fit under my house, but there you go.
How difficult would it be to just convert this fireplace?
Its' tough to say depending on where the line is and what not, do alot of things need to be torn up,..etc. Really all you need to do if find the line that runs from the main gas line to the fireplace, take the line out and plug it at the main line. Also you have to make sure your chimney is vented, if so from there you are ready to do. If you are somewhat DIY savvy you shouldn't have too much problem doing it.
There's a big difference between "gas only" f/pl's and "gas starter" f/pl's.
Gas only is just that- "Gas Only"! It was designed for that type of fuel only.
Most modular (or pre-fab) f/pl's are woodburners with gas starters. A small box on the floor of the firebox that is connected to a gasline; which in turn has a shut-off valve mounted in the wall within close proximity or the hearth of the f/pl.
Depending on the age of the house there should be another shut-off valve where that line originates.
So, the question is
Gas Only? or
Gas Starter?
If it's the latter, Shut off the gas at the originating source valve and then you'll only need some other source for starting a fire- like "starter logs" which are sawdust and paraffin wax.
There's a big difference between "gas only" f/pl's and "gas starter" f/pl's.
Gas only is just that- "Gas Only"! It was designed for that type of fuel only.
Most modular (or pre-fab) f/pl's are woodburners with gas starters. A small box on the floor of the firebox that is connected to a gasline; which in turn has a shut-off valve mounted in the wall within close proximity or the hearth of the f/pl.
Depending on the age of the house there should be another shut-off valve where that line originates.
So, the question is
Gas Only? or
Gas Starter?
If it's the latter, Shut off the gas at the originating source valve and then you'll only need some other source for starting a fire- like "starter logs" which are sawdust and paraffin wax.
Erm OK...the fireplace has a gas valve operated by a key in the floor next to the fireplace. It has a set of ceramic or something or other "logs" in the fireplace but burns only gas.
The big question is the chimney, if for example this was originally fireplace that had a gas insert installed then conversion back to regular wood is easy project. On the other hand if it's new construction and you have a wall that looks like a chimney but is really just a wall then you're talking some big bucks because you would need to construct real chimney...
The big question is the chimney, if for example this was originally fireplace that had a gas insert installed then conversion back to regular wood is easy project. On the other hand if it's new construction and you have a wall that looks like a chimney but is really just a wall then you're talking some big bucks because you would need to construct real chimney...
A couple things jump out at me reading this thread.
1. There is a gas leak. ANY gas leak should be fixed, regardless of when or how it leaks. The fact that it only leaks when the fireplace is turned on makes no difference. Find someone that is small enough to get into the crawlspace and fix it - RIGHT AWAY!
2. You should have a chimney sweep come out and evaluate the fireplace and chimney to see if its OK to use for wood. Since you said it was a real chimney, I assume the fireplace is real bricks and mortar, and not a pre fab fireplace that has a metal flue.
In some older homes where the fireplace has deteriorated mortar. loose bricks or other defects, people will sometimes install gas logs thinking that "it's not real fire so it's OK".
You need to fix the gas leak and then check to see if the fireplace and chimney are safe to use for wood fires.
Either one of these problems can potentially burn your house down. Be safe.
A couple things jump out at me reading this thread.
1. There is a gas leak. ANY gas leak should be fixed, regardless of when or how it leaks. The fact that it only leaks when the fireplace is turned on makes no difference. Find someone that is small enough to get into the crawlspace and fix it - RIGHT AWAY!
2. You should have a chimney sweep come out and evaluate the fireplace and chimney to see if its OK to use for wood. Since you said it was a real chimney, I assume the fireplace is real bricks and mortar, and not a pre fab fireplace that has a metal flue.
In some older homes where the fireplace has deteriorated mortar. loose bricks or other defects, people will sometimes install gas logs thinking that "it's not real fire so it's OK".
You need to fix the gas leak and then check to see if the fireplace and chimney are safe to use for wood fires.
Either one of these problems can potentially burn your house down. Be safe.
The entire system passes a pressure test with the valve closed, so it's perfectly safe unless the valve is open. And the key is kept far from the valve and the valve is covered, so there's no danger of it even accidentally being opened by pets.
The chimney was cleaned last year and no defects were noted. The gas fire was a retrofit so there was actually crud to clean out of the chimney.
"Real Chimney" means masonry f/pl.?
So, you have a masonry f/pl with a gas starter (or used to have a gas starter before someone put in gas logs.
The solution is still the same as I mentioned earlier- use an alternate starter fuel, like a starter log.
The fix is obviously to repair the leaky valve. If you preference is to burn wood, remove the gas logs, grate, and gasline (usually a flex line) from the cast iron pipe. You'll need a "log lighter" (the usual ones are a small cast iron box with a lid [I prefer these because of the easy of cleaning]- some of the newer ones are straight cast iron pipe with holes drilled in it [not so easy to clean out] and a mixing valve on one end), probably a nipple or two, a coupling, and a regular cast iron grate.
Funny, I have a hard time with your definition of "perfectly safe" when there is a gas leak during certain operations. Valves have been known to fail, etc.
But, in the end, it's your house, your choice, and your comfort level.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
