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White pine would usually be sused as a underlayment.Just lookig at the grade makes me think that. Its not uncommon to have double floors in older homes unless a really cheap built one.One reason was for rodents. The end cuts plus the fact that white pine is a soft wood not suited for flooring and no wear also makes me think that. Yellow long leaf pine used in some areas is much tighter grain;harder but in 100 years shows wear.
I also have heart pine on my 1920's floors. I took off the awful carpet and pad, removed all the staples and tackbars. Now, I was getting ready to sand my floors, but there are two 20 foot boards that the grain is coming loose, (old lady, may not be called grain) and I would like to fix that before I finish sanding, and help on how I can fix this problem? The two boards are right in the middle of my room
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[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]I have a house that is 200 years old with wide plank whitepine floors. The bedrooms and second floor rooms I sanded and polyurethanedwith an oil based urethane. Water base will just soak in and be splotchy. Thesefloor don't get as much traffic and that was 20 years ago and they still lookgood. The problem was the kitchen floor which was very high traffic (nomudroom) and had cracks just wide enough to hold Cheerios. I sanded it and usedclear Minwax and bowling alley wax (nourethane) which protected it for a while but was difficult to keep clean withsmall children, so I covered it with laminate for the last 15 years. Laminatewill protect pine floors without damaging them. The idea was to eventuallybuild the mudroom, with children grown, strip the laminate, fill the cracks andrefinish with the Kitchen floor withurethane. The day has come. I'll let you know how it turns out. Another tip isI used clear urethane. The age and imperfections on the wood give the floors anatural golden color that I think stain would have ruined. Another idea I haveheard of and seen done but have not tried is to steel wool the floors and thenuse boiled linseed oil.[/SIZE][/FONT]
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I just removed a wall to wall rug in my 160 yr. old farmhouse and found a partly painted wide board floor underneath. It looks like they painted around the outside of something they had in the center--most likely linoleum. The paint is a dark barn red and it extends out from the walls 3-4 feet. I tried using a hand-held belt sander to remove the paint but the floor has scrapes and gouges in it and iit's not completely flat so it won't get it off and even in the places it sands it still has a redish hue to it. Should I use paint remover or will this harm the floor? Any guidancce would be appreciated.
15-18" Wide Plank Subfloor - Fill big gaps between?
Hi, I have the same floor in a farm house built in 1881 in Huntsville, Ontario, Canada. It is 133 year old white pine from the original old growth treeds cut from around this area. I know that it is a subfloor but it is original and I think it could look incredible if I refinish it. It is in my living room, front hall and family room.
Could you send me a photo of your floor after you refinished it? My problem is that I have wide gaps in between each plank and I don't want to move them for fear of breaking some of the planks. Can you please give me a suggestion to fill the gaps? Some of them are 1 inch wide.
I am also sending this request out to anyone who has had experience refinishing a subfloor or filling in extra wide gaps in between the planks. Could you please tell me how you filled in the gaps and send me a photo??
Thank you Thank you Thank you, Pamper
Hi, my suggestion is to completely avoid polyurethane and use Bioshield Hard Oil #9 - three to five coats. I have it in my home and my floors have lasted 15 years without refinishing, or if needed, clean and steel wool and add a coat - no more sanding. To fill cracks, use wood wedges and plane them down, or use glue and pine sawdust.
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15-18" Wide Plank Subfloor - Fill big gaps between?
