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A couple weeks ago I posted about a bunch of gravel being underneath my lawn and doing a major change to it so that grass can grow. Well, I hired a guy to come out with a skid-loader and we got all the gravel out (which used to be another driveway in times past). There is now a clay-like substance on top to fill in all of the low spots.
Now I am wondering where to go from here. Do I take a rototiller to the compacted dirt right now? Or should I put the topsoil on and then do it? How much topsoil is enough? My final plan is to apply the grass seed in mid-September and I want to have the yard ready for it.
Now I am wondering where to go from here.
Do I take a rototiller to the compacted dirt right now? No.
Or should I put the topsoil on and then do it? Yes.
How much topsoil is enough? More than you would think is needed.
Dear NY,
If I understand you correctly, the contractor left an evened-out clay-type dirt in place of what all was there before. I personally would sprinkle plant grass seed right on top of what you got. Go systematically and throw it like you were feeding chickens, in a semicircle spray, evenly cover it all. Then go back and with smaller bags of good soil under your arm, grab it out like the seed and spray that on top of the grass seed so it's fairly well covered. Then lightly sprinkle hay over all that in a haphazard way. You can do it now.
The REASON I say this is because that part of your yard is now nice and level, and to go and wreck it by rorotilling seems like going backwards unless it's a golf course, because you'll have to re-level the whole dang thing at the end! I have clay soil, and I have on occasion just raked some existing bare soil, sprayed seed, watered endlessly, and the stuff grew. It's the QUALITY of seed and the WATERING of it that makes a diff in grass. When you water, it's gotta be an even spray, I always hand-did mine, because you do not want runoff dragging the seed around. If it's windy where you are, that's where hay works. If the rest of your yard's grass is growing out of clay, no need to redo the spot you got. But if you're seeing the good topsoil mixed all over your lawn, well, my advice does include putting a light layer on top of the seed.
I just prefer the quickest, easiest, but just as proven way of doing things. Of course, my lawn doesn't look like my neighbor behind me, but I'm a little more casual to begin with. His DOES look like a golf course, but mine is more user-friendly with all the trees and bushes and pathways and flowers and meadow. And I encourage moss instead of grass in shade, but that's another story.
GG
I suspect folks in the Carolinas would have a very different kind of lawn than folks that live in west central IL. I live in suburban Chicago region and have similar climate to west central IL.
The quality of the top soil is important to success of developing a healthy lawn in our climate but what mist folks consider top soil is not by itself enough for great lawn bed. If you can afford it try to get several inches of screened black top soil AND then layer on that about an inch or two of "mushroom compost" (which is also sold as sterilized manure...). Set the roto-tiller to just go just deep enough to work the compost into the top soil. The top soil will really benefit from the compost. You gotta test the water holding / draining properties. If it seems like it gets too heavy / muddy you can also add a bit of sphagnum moss. If there are still big clumps add a dusting of sand.
Building a bed for lawns is NOT single step process! It is much more critical to have the right texture of the soil. It ain't like a vegetable garden or corn field -- you'll never be harvesting a "crop" of lawn. The built up layers of the lawn give not just nutrients but a "structure" that allows for perfect combination of drainage, moisture holding, crush resistance, softness, and anti-erossion. Very hard to "fix" after the fact. I have seen homeowners blow big money on truckloads of sod when the real problem is a basic problem with too much clay that forms an impenetrable pan that will vpnever make for a lush lawn...
Seed is far cheaper than sod, but sometimes it is worth it. If your lawn has poor shade you will need to water multiple times per daynto get good germination of seed. Similarly if the slope of your lawn is steep seed will wash away. Hay is gnerally not very effective in helping to start seed. For small areas a mat designed of biodegradable material for starting lawns is better. For wider dispersion a hydroseeder with appropriate mashed mulch material is good choice.
Last edited by chet everett; 08-28-2011 at 08:40 PM..
Thanks for the responses; you both have given me quite a bit to consider. To start out I think I will try adding a little topsoil and seed and see how it works. I really can't afford (in terms of time and money) to do all the wonderful steps described by Chet right now, but possibly later in September I could give it a try. Thanks again
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