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Interestingly, we just got an estimate yesterday for our 2100 sq ft house, 3.5 ton system. There was a builder grade system for about $5700. SEER rating 13. If you wait until after the end of the year, you will need a SEER rating of 14 or better.
Our estimate for an upgraded system (Lennox) with a SEER rating of 16, was $8495. No added tax and including sealing any seams in the existing ductwork. 80% efficiency in our southern climate.
You should hire an engineer to perform estimates on heat gain & loss (Manual J), duct design (Manual D), air distribution (Manual T), and equipment specification (Manaul S). At the bare minimum, some competent HVAC contractors will do Manual J after a contract is signed.
Not a good a idea to oversize capacity by guesswork (i.e., going by square foot per ton) since doing so may result in issues with relative indoor comfort (meat freezer effect during cooling season) and equipment longevity (short run cycles are hard on capacitors and modules).
SEER is a sales gimmick. Look at EER instead.
For your reading (these are not mine but the docs are from a member on hvac-talk.com):
I beg to differ. The SEER rating seems to be a government requirement, not a gimmick.
SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at one specific operating condition. Both ratings are useful when choosing products, but the same rating must be used for comparisons. As of January 2006, all residential air conditioners sold in the United States must have a SEER of at least 13. ENERGY STAR qualified Central Air Conditioners must have a SEER of at least 14.5. At the end of this year, the minimum will change to 14.
You should hire an engineer to perform estimates on heat gain & loss (Manual J), duct design (Manual D), air distribution (Manual T), and equipment specification (Manaul S). At the bare minimum, some competent HVAC contractors will do Manual J after a contract is signed.
Not a good a idea to oversize capacity by guesswork (i.e., going by square foot per ton) since doing so may result in issues with relative indoor comfort (meat freezer effect during cooling season) and equipment longevity (short run cycles are hard on capacitors and modules).
THIS. I come in here and see people saying someone probably needs 4 tons for a 1400 ft2 house Maybe if they have no insulation in their walls and a lot of west facing windows.
I beg to differ. The SEER rating seems to be a government requirement, not a gimmick.
SEER and EER reflect system’s efficiency across a specific temperature range. Both ratings are useful when choosing products, but the same rating must be used for comparisons.
SEER is measured at 82ºF, and EER is measured at 95ºF (ideal peak load conditions). At some point, when looking at the spec sheets, it seems less convincing to buy a 18 or 19 SEER system (18 or 19) since a 15 or 16 SEER system can achieve similar EER.
Old house (1300 sq ft)... spent about $6,000 to get a builder grade Goodwin system with the basic manufacturer warranty (no service warranty). It was AC and Gas furnace. Had several problems and had to have the entire condenser core replaced (parts covered) but cost me another $1000 to a different service person to correct
New house (1500 sq ft); AC/heat pump and Natural Gas + as part of a state efficiency program included "air sealing". This totaled $15,000 but we got a state rebate of $5,000 and 0% financing on the 10,000. Cost me $80 a month. Includes 10yr full warranty as long as I keep $100 seasonal service plan. Its an Amana system (also Goodwin) but its their top of the line system, most efficient everything, fancy computer balanced thermostat. Oh this also included the contractor's portion to connect up new gas line (was oil)
Overall the $4000 difference (which is also taken up by insulation work) is well worth it to me as I really am comfortable with the installers and the product.
Third comparison.. for the same state program in the new house, we had two Carrier estimates over $20,000 (minus $5,000)
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Maybe if they have no insulation in their walls and a lot of west facing windows.
