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Old 10-19-2011, 03:35 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,544,355 times
Reputation: 23515

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UCoat It Epoxy Floor Coating

Sold by more auto specialty shops and auto enthusiast websites.
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:07 PM
 
Location: The Triad
34,091 posts, read 82,455,924 times
Reputation: 43647
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
UCoat It Epoxy Floor Coating
Sold by more auto specialty shops and auto enthusiast websites.
Looks good; thanks Page is bookmarked.

Just the fact's ma'am
UCoat It FAQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by FromTheFAQ
...remove oil and grease from the floor prior to coating?
...or similar degreaser available at hardware or automotive supply stores will usually lift oils and grease from the floor well enough to allow coating to begin.

Is an acid wash necessary?
Yes. ...or a mixture of 10% muriatic acid mixed with water and applied to the surface using a bucket and push broom. See UCoat Instructions for full details. Always rinse thoroughly with fresh water ...
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:28 PM
 
1,828 posts, read 5,297,918 times
Reputation: 1702
Quote:
Originally Posted by airics View Post
Neither.... Miracle stone it. Epoxy may peel with high temps of tires
That product looks good. Any idea of the cost?
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:54 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,544,355 times
Reputation: 23515
Another option is VCT (vinyl composition tile).
This is what I'm going with because I can do a border of one color and a pattern for the field with multiple colors. And yes, it's done quite often. There is no lifting or sliding of tiles if given proper amounts of time to completely cure. It's also a lot cheaper than epoxy. Especially when flooring companies have clearance sales.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:44 PM
 
2,700 posts, read 4,909,940 times
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Why not stain the concrete...Comes in a multitude of colors, soaks in about an inch so it's not just a top coating, can be done to give a weathered or antiqued look, and will last virtually forever....

Not super expensive, not super entailed for set up and very easy to apply....
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:29 PM
 
Location: The Triad
34,091 posts, read 82,455,924 times
Reputation: 43647
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalCpl2 View Post
Why not stain the concrete...
That's not nearly as fun as messing around with acid and epoxy...
let alone sprinkling the chips all around.

More seriously (for me at least) it's about sealing up the crevices
across the floor surface and especially at the edges and joints.
The finished surface cosmetics aren't really a factor.

hth
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:05 AM
 
Location: Paranoid State
13,044 posts, read 13,782,298 times
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Tons of info & DIY projects on the following forum:

Flooring - The Garage Journal Board
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:44 AM
 
Location: Paranoid State
13,044 posts, read 13,782,298 times
Reputation: 15837
For DIY-ers, products to consider include:

1) porcelain (not ceramic) tile (whenever a tile breaks, just chip it out & put in a new one).
2) RaceDeck Residential Flooring Applications | RaceDeck (A very fast installation that looks great)
3) VCT (can be trickier than it looks)
4) polish & seal the concrete (you can get a great look this way)
5) acid stain the concrete & seal it (you can get a great look)
6) epoxy (probably the most work. Probably the most durable, although that is subject to debate).

For epoxy, choose a 100% solids (or very high solids) epoxy with a pot-life of at least a half hour. I suggest passing on the inexpensive epoxy you'll find at home depot or lowes. Professionals can use epoxys with shorter pot-lives such as 15 mins, but you are not a pro. Do not use a water-based epoxy (the kind at big box stores). Make sure you do the water vapor test on the concrete. Tape a 3' by 3' sheet of plastic to the floor of your garage, sealing it all the way around with duct tape. Let it set 25 to 36 hours or so. Then pull it up. If the concrete is dry, you can go forward; if there is evidence of moisture or condensation, then don't try to do epoxy as it will fail.

If the floor is prepared correctly, and if you select a high quality 100% solids or very high solids content product that is not water-based, and if the product is mixed correctly (e.g., 5 mins mixing part A with a drill, 5 mins mixing part B with a drill with a different mixing paddle, 5 mins mixing A & B together with a drill -- or whatever the manufacturer recommends) & applied correctly, hot tires will not cause the epoxy to lift. Make sure as part of the preparation you wash, wash, and rewash the floor, power-washing over and over to get it clean. Let it dry a week prior to doing the epoxy.

One of the best products - but at a premium price - is Wolverine Bondtite 1101 for the primer, followed by Wolverine LiquiTile 1184 for the main coat. You have a couple choices of top clear coat - go with something that has UV stabilizers in it (over time, non-UV stabilized epoxy can yellow and become chalk-y if it is exposed to a lot of UV light).

The last floor I did (in 2008) I used ICI Devoe Paint's Devran 224HS 75% solids non-water-based epoxy as the primer coat and the main coat (with chips), topped with ICI Devoe DEVTHANE 379UVA clear coat (with "shark grit" added for wet traction). I've beat the snot out of the floor and it looks as good as the day after I finished the project. It cleans up with a damp mop. The ICI paint store personnel were very helpful. Note: If you do any welding at home, epoxy won't hold up to the sparks. You'd need to put a welding blanket down to protect it. Anyway, I am really happy with its performance.

If you want to get fancy, be an artist -- some of the photos of epoxy floors here are stunning in my opinion, and may be an inspiration to you: Profile Pictures | Facebook
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:15 PM
 
3,128 posts, read 6,496,908 times
Reputation: 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSchu View Post
there are a bunch of "Garage" forums around... check at those places before you do anything.

here is one, but there are many

Garage Forum
I'm on a few, oddly not this one. Thanks

Also Tile looks great too!
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:20 PM
 
Location: Lexington, SC
4,281 posts, read 12,617,513 times
Reputation: 3750
I do know that the one part epoxy paint is useless. Avoid it.

Surface preparation and moisture content will be the big issues.

Last edited by accufitgolf; 11-13-2011 at 06:30 PM..
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