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Houses build in the 1960s virtually always have insulation unless you mean that 1860s. A house build in the 1960s is not all that different than a house built today.
I don't have a lot of experience with old buildings but I doubt this is true. My parent's house - built in the 50's Ranch style in TX - seems to have very little insulation as it never gets cool in the summer and stays frigid in the winter, especially their bedroom which is the furthest point from the HVAC. This is in a region that gets to 100F in the summer, where it's a no-brainer insulation is important.
I've been househunting in the NE Boston area and many houses built in the 50-60's have barely any insulation in the attic. One place I've seen even just sprinkle packing peanuts in the attic and have no real insulation at all. I can't see what's in the walls, but my guess would be hardly anything in there either.
...the sorta sales people that bad mouth the other guys products.
I may not be smarted the UL or anyone else but I can use google and the info that comes back tells me cellulose insulation is a good product.
If you are worried about contamination from ammonia compounds you may want to shop for borate treated cellulose insulation.
If you are worried moisture getting trapped in walls or ceiling than you probably want to be sure the home is properly weather seal. Frankly fiberglass holds moisture too and folks that rely on spray foam insulation w/o considering what role ventilation plays in preserving the roof / siding and going to find themselves on the "denied" side of warranty claims...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperL
Cellulose insulation uses ammonia sulfate as a fire retardant. Cellulose is processed wood fibers like that of paper and burns quite well. The fire issue with cellulose is that the ammonia sulfates do not stay in the product but will leech or migrate out of the insulation leaving you with a wall full of paper. On the front side of the issue, that doesn't necessarily sound bad as long as you don't have a fire. But that paper product that's glued into your walls now becomes a moisture sponge. Any environment with a average humidity of over 25% is subject to growing mold in the wall cavity. Wanna test yer health insurance? Use cellulose insulation. There has been a common issue with the ammonia vapors in humid areas making folks sick as it dissipates from the house. These same ammonia gasses will also attack the steel in the wall cavity like the nails, conduits, steel pipes, etc.These are the finding of Underwriters Laboratories, United States Testing Company, National Association of Home Builders Research Center, and R&D Services to name a few. But I'd be willing to bet somebody here is smarter than all of these nationally recognized research centers.
None of you have a clue if this house has insulation as the OP doesn't know either. Insulation was around right after the war but it wasn't used in many areas as energy was cheap so why spend the money. It wasn't until the mid 70's that it started to become an option for most houses but few bought into the option until electrical service started getting expensive. It wasn't until the mid 80's, 1985 as I remember, that the Feds mandated that states adopt a building code that required the use of some form of insulation.
WE can't use any borates here. Respiratory issues with the acids gassing, the acids attacking fasteners and plumbing attachments, and the fire resistance gone in less than 8 years. I find it hard to believe anybody still has it available.
Someone earlier made a statement about buying a $20K house that might need $30K worth of work?
Ummmm.... I'm going to get the house for around $16K-$17K and the outer dimensions are only 832 sq ft! The total interior dimensions of the rooms added up are LESS THAN 600 SQ FT! It's like an over sized cabin! And it's located in a rural midwest small town, so we don't pay Chicago/New York prices for this sort of thing. This region has a very low cost of living factor.
The heating guy and plumber both told me it appears to be solid built.
My ONLY concern is a basement issue and I have a Basement Specialist checking it out next week. The only way I would decline this deal, is if the Basement Specialist gave me a nightmare report. OH... and the Agency that currently owns this house will be required by law to pay for a Termite/Pest inspection! So I'll get that report as well.
The location is NOT bad, unless you are some "I'm better than you are" snob. It's not located in the brand new subdivision, obviously... but this small town doesn't even have a ghetto. This town doesn't have a "bad side". Population 10,000.
It's located at the very end (very last house) of a dead end street, so I don't have to worry about traffic. It's a 1/2 acre lot and apparently all the neighbors are also 1/2 acre because nobody is sandwiched next to each other. There's a drop off ravine that borders my property (that's why it's a dead end), so I won't have to worry about kids cutting thru the property. Nice 2 stall garage (1970) with a wood burner. Dog kennel next to garage and a metal shed for firewood. All the surrounding homes seem to be built around 1940.
And the local economy (JOBS) is GREAT!
*** Check out Gov foreclosed homes in rural midwest America. You might be floored at what you find! One of my sons just bid on a foreclosed home yesterday. The asking price is $29,000 and that's 1400 sq ft with all sorts of new this and new that (including brand new attic and wall insulation 2006). His future father-in-law is a Real Estate Agent and used to be a Home Inspector and he was pleasantly impressed with the place.***
NOW... back to the subject of insulation wall issues of this 1960 home. I might be dumb and ignorant about some things, but I'm not totally stupid.
Last edited by springazure; 11-11-2011 at 08:27 AM..
Someone earlier made a statement about buying a $20K house that might need $30K worth of work?
Ummmm.... I'm going to get the house for around $16K-$17K and the outer dimensions are only 832 sq ft! The total interior dimensions of the rooms added up are LESS THAN 600 SQ FT! It's like an over sized cabin! And it's located in a rural midwest small town, so we don't pay Chicago/New York prices for this sort of thing. This region has a very low cost of living factor.
The heating guy and plumber both told me it appears to be solid built.
My ONLY concern is a basement issue and I have a Basement Specialist checking it out next week. The only way I would decline this deal, is if the Basement Specialist gave me a nightmare report.
The location is NOT bad, unless you are some "I'm better than you are" snob. It's not located in the brand new subdivision, obviously... but this small town doesn't even have a ghetto. This town doesn't have a "bad side". Population 10,000.
It's located at the very end (very last house) of a dead end street, so I don't have to worry about traffic. It's a 1/2 acre lot and apparently all the neighbors are also 1/2 acre because nobody is sandwiched next to each other. There's a drop off ravine that borders my property, so I won't have to worry about kids cutting thru the property. Nice 2 stall garage (1970) with a wood burner. Dog kennel next to garage and a metal shed for firewood. All the surrounding homes seem to be built around 1940.
And the local economy (JOBS) is GREAT!
*** Check out Gov foreclosed homes in rural midwest America. You might be floored at what you find! One of my sons just bid on a foreclosed home yesterday. The asking price is $29,000 and that's 1400 sq ft with all sorts of new this and new that. His future father-in-law is a Real Estate Agent and used to be a Home Inspector and he was pleasantly impressed with the place.
NOW... back to the subject of insulation wall issues of this 1960 home.
I wouldn't worry about the price or the cost of the work. Our first house, without needing any work was $40,000, on a double lot in a high demand neighborhood. I know of many, many, many houses now, in smaller towns near great employment opportunities, that are in great shape for $20K or less. They might need some new carpet or paint on the walls but structurally they are sound. I think people outside of the midwest can't grasp that. Heck, when we were first married we could have bought a completely updated, cape cod style house for $2500, no that is NOT missing a zero--town of 200 people though.
After many sleepless nights rummaging ideas thru my head, I've decided to not get a Natural Gas Forced Air Furnace. This region suffers from power losses during winter due to ice storms, which would render my furnace useless during a power outage. I spent last night researching Natural Gas Direct Vent Wall Heaters. No electricity required. I'm thinking this is a better choice. I can have 3 of them installed (2 Bdrms - 1 Living Room) and it will be a heck of a lot cheaper!
I will have a Sardine wood burner installed, either in Kitchen or Living Room? Not sure yet.... (that's next yrs project) The property is currently loaded with trees and I need to have them all cleared out for the edible garden paradise I plan on creating. Hence... I have my firewood supply!
For the 3rd winter I'm going to have 2 Solar Hot Air Collectors installed. 1 for the Living Room (144 sq ft) and 1 for the front (south) Mstr Bdrm (144 sq ft).
I have plenty of other off-grid and semi off-grid ideas as well as self-sufficiency subjects to explore with this property, including.... rain water harvesting for the Fruit Trees, blueberry bushes, grapevines, perennial and annual garden beds.
In the meantime... I can use some electric space heaters from the local Lowe's.
I wouldn't worry about the price or the cost of the work. Our first house, without needing any work was $40,000, on a double lot in a high demand neighborhood. I know of many, many, many houses now, in smaller towns near great employment opportunities, that are in great shape for $20K or less. They might need some new carpet or paint on the walls but structurally they are sound. I think people outside of the midwest can't grasp that. Heck, when we were first married we could have bought a completely updated, cape cod style house for $2500, no that is NOT missing a zero--town of 200 people though.
Thank you! I also have forum friends that live in money pits like California, Chicago, etc and even they think I'm buying some condemned building in the bowels of a ghetto. UGH! <sigh>
Last edited by springazure; 11-11-2011 at 09:02 AM..
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I don't have a lot of experience with old buildings but I doubt this is true. My parent's house - built in the 50's Ranch style in TX - seems to have very little insulation as it never gets cool in the summer and stays frigid in the winter, especially their bedroom which is the furthest point from the HVAC. This is in a region that gets to 100F in the summer, where it's a no-brainer insulation is important.
Hmm sounds suspiciously like ...
