Renovating a Garage Into a Man Cave / Work Space. Need To Make Sure I Am Doing Things Right (family room, glass)

[ShakyJ]

Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr

You can't. It's against code.
Any kind of conditioning of a garage space would have to be done from a separate HVAC unit.
CO2 and living spaces don't mix well together!

There would be no cars or anything emitting CO2. I am making the space smaller. Really a concern then logistically for the hvac?

[Barking Spider]

It has more to do with openings in the ducts and are also open to the inside of the house.

[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by ShakyJ

Ironically the ceiling in the garage has spray insulation on it already.
I wasnt sure if regular pine studs would be ok. With the cold concrete against them. perhaps just the bottom boards on the ground?
Not sure about the code on the MC. I was going to run some regular lines off the box which is right there.

What about a vapor barrier or is that only for below grade homes in basements?

Generally speaking I would think some insulation would be in order. Not for heat, but for the AC a good 3-5 months of the year.

thanks!

Keep in mind that the only thing I know anything about is the Texas coast and I'm operating on the assumption that your conditions are similar to mine (you have better hurricane codes there, though).

Insulated walls in an unconditioned space on the gulf of Mexico are only good for dampening sound, trapping moisture and growing fungus, probably even moreso with concrete block on one side. It's going to be a real booger to get a good seal around the garage door, which is probably a much more present concern than insulation if you want to keep the garage cool. I doubt that a window AC unit is going to fit your grand design from what I've read so far, but I would be shopping for one rated at 14,000 btu, then I wouldn't worry about insulating. My garage would be hot when I wasn't in there and cold enough to freeze Mosquitos out of the air when I had work to do.

What I see over here is any wood in contact with concrete needs to be PT. I probably wouldn't mess with a vapor barrier because I would want everything in the garage to breathe.

[ShakyJ]

So the insulation may now be worth it? Even a foam board or is that just overkill?
No concerns about sound on my end.

I can see PT on the concrete ground. Really necessary for the walls?

[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by ShakyJ

So the insulation may now be worth it? Even a foam board or is that just overkill?
No concerns about sound on my end.

I can see PT on the concrete ground. Really necessary for the walls?

To be clear, I don't think you need to insulate over the walls unless you want the garage climate controlled 24/7. If you want to cool it on demand with a ductless or window unit I think the insulation is not needed.

The wall studs are just holding up sheetrock... If you frame your wall in such a way that the studs are even 1/8" from the concrete they don't need to be treated, IMO.

[K'ledgeBldr]

With the new Miami-Dade Codes a lot of building techniques have changed. Most for the better, some are a "What the F#%k were they thinking!"
Most builders are using CMU's whether they have a grout joint or not is immaterial (both construction techniques are acceptable). But, when it comes to wall insulation there are differing opinions. Some say insulate the interior side of the exterior walls (this would be my preference- this way you're insulating only the actual conditioned space), some say insulate the exterior side and use the walls as a thermal mass (I call BS on that one, it makes absolutely no sense for S. Florida).

As a general rule, most builders will install a 1" foil-faced polyicynene foamboard on the interior side of the exterior walls, then 1X's horizontally in strategic locations (besides top and bottom; think wall attachment for base cabinets, wall cabinets, chairrail, etc.). Some will use "hat channel" attached directly to the masonry wall and fill-in with the foamboard (the drawback with this application is thermal bridging), this gives a much more solid platform for attaching d/wall and cabinets, trim, etc. There is an alternative; it's a "Z-channel"- sort of a best of both worlds. Eliminates the thermal bridging but has the solid connection for mounting.

OP-
As for your particular scenario I'm with Jimbo. Unless your house is internally insulated. If the house is externally insulated the garage wall(s) would probably be insulated- therefore no need for insulation on the inside. But, since I'm not there to do an actual physical inspection my answers are pure speculation.
On the "If it were me..."- I'd fore go the framed wall. Install hat channel to the masonry wall then use paperless d/wall. It's not true "living space", you're not going to be out there on a regular basis, so there will be no need for a consistent climate control system. The garage door will only seal just so much and you still want it functional- right? And as a reminder, do not, I repeat, DO NOT tap into the existing HVAC system. Install a separate system- whether it be a mini- split or just a window unit in a prepared hole.

[ShakyJ]

Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr

With the new Miami-Dade Codes a lot of building techniques have changed. Most for the better, some are a "What the F#%k were they thinking!"
Most builders are using CMU's whether they have a grout joint or not is immaterial (both construction techniques are acceptable). But, when it comes to wall insulation there are differing opinions. Some say insulate the interior side of the exterior walls (this would be my preference- this way you're insulating only the actual conditioned space), some say insulate the exterior side and use the walls as a thermal mass (I call BS on that one, it makes absolutely no sense for S. Florida).

As a general rule, most builders will install a 1" foil-faced polyicynene foamboard on the interior side of the exterior walls, then 1X's horizontally in strategic locations (besides top and bottom; think wall attachment for base cabinets, wall cabinets, chairrail, etc.). Some will use "hat channel" attached directly to the masonry wall and fill-in with the foamboard (the drawback with this application is thermal bridging), this gives a much more solid platform for attaching d/wall and cabinets, trim, etc. There is an alternative; it's a "Z-channel"- sort of a best of both worlds. Eliminates the thermal bridging but has the solid connection for mounting.

OP-
As for your particular scenario I'm with Jimbo. Unless your house is internally insulated. If the house is externally insulated the garage wall(s) would probably be insulated- therefore no need for insulation on the inside. But, since I'm not there to do an actual physical inspection my answers are pure speculation.
On the "If it were me..."- I'd fore go the framed wall. Install hat channel to the masonry wall then use paperless d/wall. It's not true "living space", you're not going to be out there on a regular basis, so there will be no need for a consistent climate control system. The garage door will only seal just so much and you still want it functional- right? And as a reminder, do not, I repeat, DO NOT tap into the existing HVAC system. Install a separate system- whether it be a mini- split or just a window unit in a prepared hole.

Actually I will be out there several house a day every single day. I work from home. This isnt for fun.

Why not tap the HVAC if there are not going to be cars in there? It will be too small once I split it to even park a car in there. Is this more just a "What If" scenario?

thanks!

[K'ledgeBldr]

Look at it this way-
If the "room" has a garage door(s)- It's a GARAGE! Whether you pull a car in there or not. Working on a car in the garage versus parking a car in the garage makes no difference. The chances of sucking up CO2 within the HVAC system and distributing it throughout the house is about 100%.
Take out the garage door and build a semi-permanent wall, then you could probably tap into the system without worry of poisoning yourself or family. But, keep this in mind also- by trying to heat/cool an additional 400+/- sq/ft you may over tax the present system, especially if it's at the high end of it's capacity.

Codes were created for the safety of all. I'm only relaying to you the present code requirements- However, you seem pretty adamant about going ahead and doing it anyway because I'll assume that you don't have or want to spend the money to do it right. So remember, you assume the responsibility- I'll supply the facts. And if and when you sell- a private inspector will throw up the RED FLAG.

[ShakyJ]

I am not adamant about doing it, my question is trying to understand the logic about sucking up gasses if there are no cars in the garage. I get your point, it is the principal of the matter. Just dont.

This raises a new questions actually. There is no window. I would have to cut into blocks to put an AC in.

[K'ledgeBldr]

Originally Posted by ShakyJ

I am not adamant about doing it, my question is trying to understand the logic about sucking up gasses if there are no cars in the garage. I get your point, it is the principal of the matter. Just dont.

This raises a new questions actually. There is no window. I would have to cut into blocks to put an AC in.

If you go with a window type unit- yep.
If you go with a mini-split you only need about a 2" hole- other than the usual electrical of course.