Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
If you can get the Dremel to cut a slot in the nut most of the way, you can then usually pry open the nut with a screwdriver. Sometimes it helps to cut a smaller second slot on the other side so it has a place to bend.
We will have to try the PB blaster. I'll have to stop by the hardware store and get some though. Hopefully this will be all it takes.
The problem is, hubby cut off the sprayer for the detached spray hose thing, so.....we can't use the faucet right now at all. We are installing a pull out sprayer faucet.
I don't know that you could get a hammer into the space to pound with a chisel. We do have a Dremel so that might be what has to happen...
We had a similar issue a couple of years ago. Soak it with penetrating oil and buy a socket set for plumbing. It will give you more leverage for turning. An extension helps for the tight spaces. I heard all kinds of colorful language when my husband was changing out ours.
Either PB Blaster or if you can find it, Kroil, both are really good penetrating oils, PB can be found at WalMart. A little judicious heating with a hair dryer can help. Both need several hours to do all they will eventually do.
If you are trying to get compression fittings loose, a proper flare nut wrench, maybe one that's a crow's foot version, may help.
Keep in mind that when you are working upside down and backwards under a sink, you need to think carefully about which direction is going to loosen the fastener. Put your right hand up to the fastener, point your thumb in the direction you want it to advance (away from the faucet). Your curled fingers point in the direction to turn the wrench.
Not seeing your installation, I'm not sure you can take the sink out "whole" and then work on the faucet, as KnowledgeBuilder noted, this can be a lot easier.
So, finally got back to work in the faucet, well, DH did. Got an extension for the socket wrench and one turn and the fitting dissolved into a rusted mess. WAY easier then we thought it would be. Not sure why the basin wrench didn't do the same thing. Looking forward to having running water in the kitchen again .
I had an old delta faucet 13+ years old. I tried everything to get the kitchen nut under the sink to loosen. 1. Screw driver, 2. WD40 3. Basin Wrench 4. PB Blaster 5. Dremel to cut bolt. Using a Dremel to cut the bolt didnt seem to work at first. However I used the Dremel to cut the stop of the faucet off and then used a hammer. It finally broke and fell out. Hooray. The good news is that the installation of the new faucet only took about 1 hour and was very easy. The bad news is that the garbage disposal seemed to start leaking when I was done. I went ahead and replaced it and it wasn't too bad. In fact, I would recommend that you remove the garbage disposal if you are doing this type of work as it will give you more room to work and isn't that big of a deal to reattach.
I obtained a free (under warranty) spring-and-seats kit, along with a RP70 ball assembly for my Delta 470 kitchen faucet. However, I couldn't remove the faucet lever handle's setscrew, due to corrosion. I tried using penetrating oil, but that didn't help either. I also tried heating the setscrew with a 100-watt soldering iron, but that didn't help either. I used an electric drill to drill out the old setscrew, but the handle was still stuck to the old ball assembly stem. As a last resort, I used a hack saw to cut off the handle at the same horizontal level as where the setscrew was located. Afterwards, I was able to twist the base of the handle counter clockwise and that part of the handle finally came off of the old RP70 stem. I was then able to unscrew the "cap with adjusting ring" and finally access the faucet components associated with the old RP70 ball assembly. At this point, I installed the new kit and ball assembly. I then requested additional warranty replacement parts (a new handle and setscrew) from Delta. When they heard about the corrosion problem, they decided that it was in everybody's best interest to send me a complete new faucet (free under the warranty), instead of piecemeal repair parts! Their customer service is excellent!
I am having problems wondering if there is a bolt or something holding the faucet water line and sprayer hose due to rust/corrosion. I watched a youtube video and i noticed that there is a C or U shaped bracket under those faucet water lines. After cleaning around the area, it appears i also have a C or U shaped bracket . What do you use to remove that bracket? I cut the other end of my sprayer hose, but not sure if i need to unscrew the nut also since there is no room to unscrew it. It really is cramped for space under there. I used wd-40 to clean it up a bit. Here is a pic. Any suggestions? This is the last obstacle. Once i am able to remove my Moen kitchen faucet, i believe the installation of the new faucet shouldn't be too hard. Thanks.
Last edited by JL; 08-15-2015 at 09:39 PM..
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
.
