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I'm calling BS on that one. Granted, it might help hide a little crack. But let's face it, if the foundation is moving that much it's not constructed properly. Foundations on that type of soil are usually extremely thick and reinforced or, are PTC slabs. The idea is for the slab to float on the moving soil not flex and move.
Goes to show ya just how clueless you can be about building techniques in different parts of the world. Years past we tried the full floating foundations, some with double steel mats, some with pad thicknesses over 14". Guess what- they broke. You have no clue what you're taking about as you haven't experienced it. I have a neighbor that lives in a 35 year old home on a full floating foundation. We had to cut his garage floor out earlier this year as the ground heaved under the foundation. The floor raised over 34" in the middle. This isn't the first time this has happened here as I've repaired foundation issues like this before over the years. While you think you have a clue about a foundation that will flex like a post tension with a 5" cap, it doesn't break. We'd much rather deal with the cosmetics than with structural issues. When we install the drywall we don't nail it within 16" of the corners-wall and ceiling. That's so that it can flex and move. That's the reason for a flexible caulk. But sometimes you just can't get away from a foundation moving so much that the only fix is to hide the cracks and flex behind crown mould. It's what we have to deal with here. Be glad you are clueless to the issue as it's not a lot of fun. Might want to research Vertisol soils so you have an idea. Like I said, it more akin to the blob as the soil moves a lot here. Streets that are put in straight can move feet out of line. Houses actually go up and down 16" from the driest time to the wettest time of the year and to expecting it to go back to the exact same spot is not going to happen. That's why we water our foundations. We can't control how wet it gets with our summer flooding we usually get but we can control how dry it gets by watering which limits the down cycle of the soils movement. Failure to water is a recipe for foundation failure. That's why our Yellow Pages is loaded with foundation companies.
Goes to show ya just how clueless you can be about building techniques in different parts of the world.
You have no clue what you're taking about as you haven't experienced it.
Be glad you are clueless to the issue as it's not a lot of fun.
Wow! Got all of that from my post?
A bit arogant on your part don't ya think? Considering you know me, how?
It is an interesting dynamic played out in a variety of areas with a variety of issues: someone wants a house built or someone builds a house and someone wants to buy it in an area with known conditional challenges. Soils/geotechnical conditions are probably the hardest to reconcile and trapper's posts make me cringe for sure. I guess once you properly inform the buyer, it is on them....can that ever stop the lawsuits? Economically feasible and properly functioning foundations would mess up a project's budget pretty quick in that area! To be honest, I am glad its a great big country and I would probably not want a house that required constant footing hydration...but some folks obviously don't mind it!
Funny - I just searched the forum for caulk because I'm having the exact issue TrapperL describes (clay soil - truss uplift - ceiling separated from crown molding, which was nailed to the wall). Had a structural engineer check it all out last week.
I was looking for the right caulk...will go with Superiors.
My crown molding was caulked to the ceiling but as the ceiling rose, that didn't last. I've unfortunately already used DAP on a good bit of it.
I did that. I'm not experienced with tape or mud and I had to fix some cracks along the ceiling edge. I don't think they were taped when installed, that's why so many cracks.
A good bead of caulk (or several) seems to have worked for now.
From a finishing standpoint, yes.
From a code standpoint, NO! The reason for the tape and bed at wall and wall/ceiling intersections is for fire. The drywall compound is not flammable, where the caulk is.
If the joints were only caulked, fire could spread after burning through the caulk.
There are no fire separations in single family dwelling construction. Even the occupancy separation between the R and the U occupancy only requires the materials of a rated assembly on one side, so it is not a true separation of a rated and tested assembly.
In the 80's there was an ICBO (now ICC) research report done that claimed the paper tape actually added to the flame spread.
Disclaimer: I'm sure you are light years ahead of me when it comes to current ICC code, so I'm just sharing my understanding. I've always said that residential could be built with match sticks.
It would be that my interpretation that interior drywall is only a vernier finish, and is not required by code to be taped and finished. Also, while by design foundations are no to move with the seasons it is a fact of life. USG Control Joint 093 is made with the movement in mind.
Keep in mind that my statements apply only to Type 5 Residential, and not required rated assemblies in other types of construction.
Truss uplift happens in winter more than warm months. There can be a gap at the top of the wall, OR the bottom (where the wall actually lifts off the floor).
It also could be as simple as there was wallpaper there at one time and when they trimmed it at the top, they sliced thru the drywall tape.
On a side note, while Trapper does appear to have some building technology knowledge, he thinks he knows more than everyone else, while losing sight that "maybe" he is not as smart as he thinks he is. It appears that if you disagree with him, you are automatically an uneducated/experienced clod, and he is the "all knowing".
The only time I see caulk at the joints is when there was truss uplift. Chances are if you re-tape the joints, they will rip out again. I always nail trusses to the top plate, this causes the trusses to bow in the middle of the room instead of a wall in the middle of the house.
Goes to show ya just how clueless you can be about building techniques in different parts of the world. Years past we tried the full floating foundations, some with double steel mats, some with pad thicknesses over 14". Guess what- they broke. You have no clue what you're taking about as you haven't experienced it. I have a neighbor that lives in a 35 year old home on a full floating foundation. We had to cut his garage floor out earlier this year as the ground heaved under the foundation. The floor raised over 34" in the middle. This isn't the first time this has happened here as I've repaired foundation issues like this before over the years. While you think you have a clue about a foundation that will flex like a post tension with a 5" cap, it doesn't break. We'd much rather deal with the cosmetics than with structural issues. When we install the drywall we don't nail it within 16" of the corners-wall and ceiling. That's so that it can flex and move. That's the reason for a flexible caulk. But sometimes you just can't get away from a foundation moving so much that the only fix is to hide the cracks and flex behind crown mould. It's what we have to deal with here. Be glad you are clueless to the issue as it's not a lot of fun. Might want to research Vertisol soils so you have an idea. Like I said, it more akin to the blob as the soil moves a lot here. Streets that are put in straight can move feet out of line. Houses actually go up and down 16" from the driest time to the wettest time of the year and to expecting it to go back to the exact same spot is not going to happen. That's why we water our foundations. We can't control how wet it gets with our summer flooding we usually get but we can control how dry it gets by watering which limits the down cycle of the soils movement. Failure to water is a recipe for foundation failure. That's why our Yellow Pages is loaded with foundation companies.
My last few homes have been slab homes. Part(s) of it raising or sinking 34 inches..as in close to 3 feet..seems to me to be a catastrophic incident and in no way normal.
Same thing is happening to me right now. I removed the stomped ceiling in one of my bedrooms and wouldn't ya know they caulked all the corners and along the whole ceiling. So when I remove the caulk I am also removing the drywall tape. It has got to be the absolute laziest repair job I have ever seen. My townhome is literally a house of horrors for a code inspector. It was built quick and crappy back in 1982. It's so overwhelming that in 5 years of being here I decided to repair everything room by room. I can't bare the thought of selling this place and have all these problems being put on some poor couple who is getting their first home.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaKash
I decided to take off the popcorn ceiling in my home. Two bedrooms have gone well without any surprises. The homebuilder did a decent job on taping the ceiling so I have a good surface to work with for doing knockdown texture.
Moved into the hall and while removing the popcorn it became apparent that there is caulk in the joint where the wall meets the ceiling. When the caulk is removed there is small gap at the joint. There is tape on the wall and the ceiling but it seems to have been cut at the joint.
So I had two options. Peel out the caulk and replace it with caulk... or do it the right way which IMO consists of taping the joints . I spent pretty much all day yesterday doing this to the stairs, landing and hall yesterday. All that is left is one more sanding and then I am ready to texture it all.
My questions is this. I am afraid I may find this throughout the house or at least more of it. Would tearing out the caulk and replacing it with caulk just be foolish because it would eventually crack and look like crap? Is there a faster solution to mud, tape, mud, sand, mud, sand? Obviously this project of removing popcorn, texturing ceiling, retexturing walls, paint, new flooring and replacing doors is becoming increasingly more time consuming if I have to retape floor/ceiling joints.
Thanks
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Caulk in every single corner of drywall
. I spent pretty much all day yesterday doing this to the stairs, landing and hall yesterday. All that is left is one more sanding and then I am ready to texture it all.
