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Old 08-02-2012, 03:48 PM
 
134 posts, read 548,582 times
Reputation: 66

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Ok so I have ripped most of the old shower out. I have a few questions.

1. Where The old drywall is there are a few small tears in the outer paper. Can i just tear it off smooth put some joint compound over the top and then respackle or whatever? Also I don't plan on using traditional drywall but concrete backerboard. Now there is still drywall at the top of the wall. Do I need to rip the drywall all the way to the ceiling or can I just put up the backerboard on bottom butted against the top drywall. and do I just smooth over the seam with joint compound?

Also I have never redone a shower. I probably will hire someone to do the tile, etc. But as far as the shower pan goes:

1. How do I get the floor tile up? Just start smashing away? and once i get that up, not sure what I'll find as I don't see any liner coming up on the sides but if it is the mud mix does that just come out like scoop out or do you have to smash it away too?

one last question. The curb. I know I tear off the tile underneath. Then what/ Is there drywall under the tile and mud or? besides the 2x4's
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:13 PM
 
Location: San Antonio, Texas
3,503 posts, read 19,887,890 times
Reputation: 2771
It sounds like you need a pro to finish the job and do it right.
In any event, the torn paper is OK if it is above the tile line. Cement backerboard can be butted up to it. If the floor is tile, it needs to be smashed or broken up with a sledge hammer and all removed down to the floor. The liner needs to be put down and up the floor to at least 6 inches. I put in a shower and the liner is 12 inches, just because I could. I think the curb you are talking about is the edge of the shower. I wrapped the liner around a 4X4 to make a curb. Then you can tile over the liner at the curb. The floor of the shower is put over the liner. There are specific steps and kinds of mortor to use. Use the internet and learn the steps to making a shower.
I think that may help, but you really need to tear it all down to the beams and go step by step to rebuild it.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:16 PM
 
4 posts, read 27,072 times
Reputation: 10
We just had ours redone and they did not use a pan or liner. They painted on a waterproof membrane. Our old liner was installed improperly, water was leaking through nail holes and getting wicked up by drywall that was laid over it! And they do crack over time. You may want to look into the method I mentioned.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:36 PM
 
134 posts, read 548,582 times
Reputation: 66
well I definately have watched about 20 videos and some of them even have kits to put in the mortar mix to make getting the correct slope easier. I honestly probably won't do it all myself. Guess I'm just trying to see how to do it.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:51 PM
 
134 posts, read 548,582 times
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at the least i plan on doing the tear down myself to save a couple hundred. So when removing the bottom tile and shower pan, how do i go about it. Do i tear apart the whole curb and pry up and start cutting or beating out chunks of mortar?
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:53 PM
 
Location: Alaska
5,356 posts, read 18,544,358 times
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Let the person doing the tile finish off the joint between the sheetrock and backer board. As to the floor, yes you should take it all out and start from fresh. I also suggest you check out JohnBridge.com forums for additional information. There are tiling professionals there who will answer your questions.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:30 PM
 
134 posts, read 548,582 times
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this may be a stupid question but i know you are supposed to leave small gaps in backerboard and it sits slightly off the ground/shower pan. What keeps water from running under the backerboard. Does the tile sit high enough that it makes it where it can't run. Or do you silicone between backerboard and shower pan?
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:40 PM
 
Location: Alaska
5,356 posts, read 18,544,358 times
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Depending on which method you use (pan liner, brush-on membrane or Kerdi), what you do will be different. Sounds like you're doing backerboard, so you want to put a vapor barrier behind the backerboard, overlapping the pan liner. That way, if water gets behind the backerboard, it will run down and into the pan. You silicone the joint after the tile goes on and is grouted.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:39 PM
 
4,278 posts, read 5,177,911 times
Reputation: 2375
I did that project.

- I did not pull any permits so the waste is something you might not just toss on the curb. In our area the city/county drives around looking for DIY guys to nail for not pulling permits. So I went to food store and got a bunch of empty boxes to put the waste in. I set out a few boxes on trash day and the trash guys never complained. Why spend 500 dollars on a permit?

- Rip out. I did it myself, messy, I had to rent a air gun to take up the tile, grout off the floor.

- Frame for shower walls, bath room walls. . I hired a guy just to do the frame and dry wall/cement board part of this project. A key part is making sure the walls/drywall/cement board is square. Leave it to a guy that does this for a living. It's not that expensive.

- The Tile guy built up the shower floor, damn. They used bricks for the dam. I bought the floor drain at HD. The tile guys have experience in this area so leave it to them. Make sure they don't use 2x4's for the dam. It's common, but not a good idea. Bricks are easy to get.

- Tile Guy - I hired a company that just does tile. They did a very good job on the tile and I would have used them again if I had too.


- Tile - I went to a tile shop, not Home Depot and got some really good tile. I sold that house a few months later and everyone loved the tile job. I was a little more expensive than HD tile, but worth it. Take your time, spend some money and pick out so good tile.

- I think my entire bathroom was about 2k finished. All new tile, fixtures, drywall, cement board. It really looked great.
I got bids before starting this job and the cheapest was 5k. It was amazing to see how much a contractor will charge and they all use illegal labor. But hey, they want to make a buck too, but they did not get it that day.

It's a bit of fun, dirty, but fun. You learn a lot about the trades etc....good project.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:30 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,475 posts, read 66,054,754 times
Reputation: 23626
Want a floor that's never gonna leak?
Want walls that are never gonna leak?
Want a shower that easy to clean- with no grout?

Go cultured marble!!!
There are manufacturers that make standard size shower pans and most can make custom sizes also. And they can make one piece panels for the walls. The only joints you have are at corners, and a good 100% silicone caulk can handle that for years.
Granted, cultured marble doesn't have the"Wow factor" that some tile jobs can have but, why have an impressive tiled shower that only you will see and is a pain in the ass to keep clean?
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