Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
As to the cost for others to do it. A dining table is typically $1000 to re-finish (top, sides, legs and leafs). We had three small table tops only refinished fo $300.
DIY just sand the finish off, then sand with 100, 120, 150 220 grits. Use a good poly, and sand with 220 between coats. OIl based poly will turn yellowish over time if it gets sunlight on it. Water base stays clear. Some like the yellowing, it looks like patina.
If you want to preserve the patina, just scuff up the existing fiinish and coat it with satin poly (NOT GLOSS).
Thanks for the info! I'm looking to only have the top done with the leaf extension so they match. Legs are pretty decent. so it sound like $300 would be the ballpark, which kind of stinks since I bought the table and 4 chairs for only $250 (I think it's an awesome deal I got).
Appreciate the info on oil based poly turning yellow. I definitely don't want that. I like the high gloss look it has now though. What's the reason you said "NOT GLOSS" and to use satin poly?
How many coats will I need - it will be the primary dinner table so I'd like it to be durable.
No way - This is a classic mahogany piece. Painting will ruin it for sure!!
I've refinished furniture peices for over 20yrs. I wasn't afraid to paint and distress a huge Ethan Allen hutch and have gotten many compliments.
In all my projects over the years, what you think is solid wood can end up as veneered once you sand or strip away some layers.
There are many great products on the market. Professional stripping can loosen joints and dry out the wood. My last project, I used water based stripper, not as strong and doesn't work as quickly, but safer.
Agree with the poster who said a light sand to take the shine off and revarnish is all you need. If you use an oil based product brings out the beauty of the wood and better overall outcome. Purchase sponge applicators and don't forget varnish remover. I prefer the odorless, and have good ventilation. A light sanding over the varnish with 0000 steel wool, and second coat.
In all my projects over the years, what you think is solid wood can end up as veneered once you sand or strip away some layers.
^^^^I was given a desk from my father. It was his parents and made in the early 1900's. I discovered parts of it were actually veneer when I started refinishing it.
Thanks for the info! I'm looking to only have the top done with the leaf extension so they match. Legs are pretty decent. so it sound like $300 would be the ballpark, which kind of stinks since I bought the table and 4 chairs for only $250 (I think it's an awesome deal I got).
Appreciate the info on oil based poly turning yellow. I definitely don't want that. I like the high gloss look it has now though. What's the reason you said "NOT GLOSS" and to use satin poly?
How many coats will I need - it will be the primary dinner table so I'd like it to be durable.
If you are trying to p[reserve the patina of age and keep an aged/historic look, you do not want gloss, it ends up looking like a specimin display under a plastic case. If you are going to sand it down to look new, gloss is fine. Putting gloss over scratches and discolorations looks bad.
I forgot to mention, if it is thin veneer, dont try it. Even professionals sometimes refuse to try to refinish thin veneer. I just refinished a cheap table I got for my printer, and failed to notice it was super thin veneer. Sanded right through it in one spot. I realized hte mistake when the grain suddenly went the wrong way. Luckily, the printer will cover that spot.
Some may disagree but we've done pieces that were going to get heavy use with marine varnish.
If 'primary' means everyday use, you might consider that.
Have used marine varnish for years. Personal favorite: Z-Spar Flagship varnish. But never on indoor furniture. It is a soft finish, that can handle the elements well by being able to expand/contract.
The biggest problem with that is it 'blocks' terribly (Well, it IS designed for use outdoors). Try varnishing a bookshelf with it, leave some books on it a couple of months, and then try to pull them off.
Poly, Lacquer (though not exactly environmentally friendly, and a spray booth recommended) would be my first choice.
I've refinished furniture peices for over 20yrs. I wasn't afraid to paint and distress a huge Ethan Allen hutch and have gotten many compliments.
In all my projects over the years, what you think is solid wood can end up as veneered once you sand or strip away some layers.
There are many great products on the market. Professional stripping can loosen joints and dry out the wood. My last project, I used water based stripper, not as strong and doesn't work as quickly, but safer.
Agree with the poster who said a light sand to take the shine off and revarnish is all you need. If you use an oil based product brings out the beauty of the wood and better overall outcome. Purchase sponge applicators and don't forget varnish remover. I prefer the odorless, and have good ventilation. A light sanding over the varnish with 0000 steel wool, and second coat.
I am surprised.... especially after 20 years (same amount of time as me, but I do it for fun, and only for myself). Usually it is easy to identify veneer, primarily by grain pattern. Think only in a few cases did I ultrasound the pieces, and would know instantly. (helps when you worked for a medical device manufacturer, and the MRI was out, as steel nails were a no-no).
Quality of end product = skill of craftsman (including knowledge of latest technology) + quality of tools + experience + (potentially) time invested. This applies to almost everything.
I have an old bedroom set. I wanted to get some scratches out of the wood and protect the finish. I just used some furniture oil, like lemon oil, some rubbing alcohol, use them separate or mix them with each other. Fine steel wool or a fine scrubbie pad, (like on the back of a sponge, they come in different firmness) This will cut thru the old finish and not remove the stain.
Then I used some Murphy's oil soap, and wiped down the surface. I reapplied some good ol paste wax. Linseed oil works great also. I will go take a photo and post for ya.
here's a few images of how the finish turned out on my dresser. Takes the old wax and buildup off, removes scratches.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
