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Alright, going to sound like a really dumb question, but a friend and I were cutting 2X4s today for a new workbench and were just breaking in my new Porter-Cable circular saw. The saw made it through most of the 2X4 before it would stop at the very end and refuse to go any farther. It caused a real herky-jerky at the end if we tried to force it through. Finally had to flip the 2X4 over and finish it off on the other side.
Any idea on what the problem was? Workbench came together pretty nice but it's bugging me that we couldn't figure out what was causing the saw to catch and not completely finish off the 2X4.
Thanks
I'm not sure I am understanding the problem. I've cut a lot of 2X4s to make workbenches and the like and an inexpensive chop saw will slice through them like hot butter. If both ends of the board are supported there should be no binding. I don't believe I would use a circular saw to do this regardless. As I say, I'm probably not understanding the problem.
You will not get binding with a chop saw in most cases.
Typically when cutting with a circular saw the board is on saw horses or a table with the end being cut off sticking out into the air. When you get to the last little bit, the weight of the end pulls the end of the board down and pinches the saw blade. There are two solutions typically used for this. Either put one foot on the table/saw horse to hole the board and lift the end of the board with your now free hand, or when you get near the last little bit of wood, push the saw through the last remaining corner really quickly so there is not time for the blade to bind.
If you really care about whether to not you might cut off parts of your body, then the better way is to either clamp the board to the saw horses/table, support the hanging end of the board with something, or have helper gently lift the end of the board to remove the pressure. This becomes more critical when you are cutting plywood since the end will droop and bind the saw blade much sooner.
With a chop saw, the boards is supported on either side of the blade, so you are unlikely to get binding. Further at least one end of the board is clamped in place, so you have a free hand to support the other end and relieve the pressure. However chop saws are often impractical in the field where you are frequently cutting with saw horses, or with improvised support, or none; cutting the end off a board you are holding in the air; cutting a board that is already in place. . . . all kinds of crazy things. You will not see a lot of framers or roofers hauling a chop saw around with them, or taking it up on a roof. A circ is a one tool for everything type of tool for the field. It can cut plywood, lumber, doors, molding, mitered cuts (if you do not need to be too accurate), anything. It is the most versatile power saw there is. Chop saws are pretty limited.
As a homeowner, and not a Carpenter (with over 60,000 documented work hours), I myself buy tools that cost less. I have a cheap table saw, chop saw, and any other tool that will only see use on occasion. I have even used my 3 1/2" cordless Makita saw on occasion in a pinch, but was it the best is the real point!
What is best for the homeowner is an inexpensive name-brand saw that costs under $100 (like the aforementioned Porter-Cable). Unlike tradesmen, homeowners do not subject their tools to the stresses of hours of use every work day, nor do "seconds count" at home in the same way they do on a job site.
I have had zero problems cutting 2x4s on many occasions using the exact same saw as the OP. If your direct-drive seems under-powered for this simple task, I suggest you invest in a new blade.
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My apologies if my off the cuff comment angered you? Hopefully, no family members were injured in the fray!
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Hopefully we didn't get to far off track, and you'll recover from your anger.
Is is possible for you to drop the smart-assed know-it-all attitude, or is this an unfortunate personality quirk you suffer from?
What is best for the homeowner is an inexpensive name-brand saw that costs under $100 (like the aforementioned Porter-Cable). Unlike tradesmen, homeowners do not subject their tools to the stresses of hours of use every work day, nor do "seconds count" at home in the same way they do on a job site.
I have had zero problems cutting 2x4s on many occasions using the exact same saw as the OP. If your direct-drive seems under-powered for this simple task, I suggest you invest in a new blade.
Is is possible for you to drop the smart-assed know-it-all attitude, or is this an unfortunate personality quirk you suffer from?
Thank you for pointing out my faults! It has been duly noted. I never knew about changing the blade?
Thank you for pointing out my faults! It has been duly noted. I never knew about changing the blade?
NP. Glad I could be of assistance.
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