Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I agree with polyurethane. It looks good and makes cleaning up easy. Lasts forever. Many restaurants do it.
Here's a DIY step by step information site...
A layer or two of polyurethane helps, but is not going to prevent liquids from penetrating the table's surface, simply because wood expands and contracts which results on very small cracks on the surface. Also, in a short period of time the utensils used at the table will scratch, ding, and even puncture the layers of polyurethane, varnish, and the rest.
The only thing that would make the top surface of a table would also make it impossible to sand and refinish the table again, and it's something I would never do to an expensive table. Have you seen the coffee and other tables where the builder stains the table as needed, then places silver coins and other objects on the table, and finally covers the table with one or several layers of acrylic gel? You can use this thick acrylic substance on the table without putting coins and things like that in there, and it does a good job. But to sand that stuff off is quite difficult if you don't know how.
What I do is to wipe the table clean right after any spill. This table has a couple of layers of Varathane (an acrylic finish), but it's not water proof. I also wax it with furniture wax every now and then.
Apparently people no longer use them - because they want to enjoy the beauty of their wood table.
The ironic thing is that if your wood table is unprotected - it won't stay beautiful for long. Maybe this is why "primitive" and "farmhouse" tables have become so popular. They never had a "fine" finish to begin with, so it doesn't matter if they get abused.
I have my mother's dining room table (Drexel) from the '50s. With the original table pads. it basically looks like it did when it came out of the showroom. No water rings, no scorch marks, no wax, no scratches.
Apparently people no longer use them - because they want to enjoy the beauty of their wood table.
The ironic thing is that if your wood table is unprotected - it won't stay beautiful for long. Maybe this is why "primitive" and "farmhouse" tables have become so popular. They never had a "fine" finish to begin with, so it doesn't matter if they get abused.
I have my mother's dining room table (Drexel) from the '50s. With the original table pads. it basically looks like it did when it came out of the showroom. No water rings, no scorch marks, no wax, no scratches.
2nd vote here for table pads... Felt on one side, plastic on the 'up' side... will keep the tables looking awesome for decades... not cheap, but compared to the price of a decent table, a relative bargain. Usually have to be custom made. 1/4" or 3/8" plate glass will also do it (with small acid-free felt dots to just support it a fraction of an inch for air circulation. But that will cost as much or more (like $20/ft^2, with a beveled edge) as the table pads, and at moving/relocation time, are a pain.
Personally, use table pads for eating-at tables, and plate glass for end tables, dresser tops, and any other flat surface that needs protection.
You could probably use Lexan or some other polycarbonate... don't know how that would look.
2nd vote here for table pads... Felt on one side, plastic on the 'up' side... will keep the tables looking awesome for decades... not cheap, but compared to the price of a decent table, a relative bargain. Usually have to be custom made. 1/4" or 3/8" plate glass will also do it (with small acid-free felt dots to just support it a fraction of an inch for air circulation. But that will cost as much or more (like $20/ft^2, with a beveled edge) as the table pads, and at moving/relocation time, are a pain.
Personally, use table pads for eating-at tables, and plate glass for end tables, dresser tops, and any other flat surface that needs protection.
You could probably use Lexan or some other polycarbonate... don't know how that would look.
Glass definitely is a pain at moving time!
In general - we've followed the same approach as you -- table pads for dining (eating) tables. Glass for servers, some dressers, buffets. One thing to note about glass -- if your item is in the sun, glass will (obviously) do nothing to stop any sort of fading due to UV. Cherry and other fruit woods are particularly susceptible to that.
A few of the fine table manufacturers still include custom table pads with the table purchase. We've seen them in some of the furniture stores when we were shopping for other items. However, if your table didn't come with table pads, there are still a lot of companies that make them and have a relatively painless kit for ordering. (We've ordered them for a table we bought clearance that didn't come with them initially).
I use a pad under my tablecloths. I ordered mine from Vermont Country Store, but I've seen them advertised at Bed Bath and Beyond.
Often these are flannel backed vinyl. Mine works very well.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
