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Does anyone know an "effective" solution to repairing a tiny hole in my galvanized water pressure tank? I know it needs replaced, but I just cant afford to do that right now. I have read that you can use a screw with a neoprene washer, but if the tank is rusted bad enough to make a pinhole,...what is the screw suppose to attach to? ????
The pump is short cycling because it is waterlogged - I assume.
SO....I need to drain the tank in order for it to re-pressurize...Correct? And if so, will the tank actually hold the air pressure OR is it just going to make the hole bigger?
I'm in a pickle here and could use some good advice - other than "replace the tank"! I know that!
Thank you :-)
If you can find one (yes they do make them)-
Use a worm gear hose clamp that will go around the tank; a piece of rubber over the hole and clamp in place. You'll be using the same principle as a saddle valve.
That should hold ya until the thing explodes leaving you with a bigger mess!- just sayin'
You MAY be able to perform a TEMPORARY repair using marine-rated epoxy. Cleaning the area of rust would be critical. Perhaps drill out the hole using a drillbit larger than the existing hole so you can get to "good" metal.
I had a well at my old house, and the bladder ruptured in the pressure tank, so the tank was waterlogged. It developed a pinhole leak about 2/3 of the way from the bottom and was spraying water everywhere. The pump never shut off. I had to replace the tank, of course.
There are a whole lot of "temporary fixes" that kinda sorta will help you get over the hump and so long as they are cheap and not unsafe it is probably worth playing with -- most hardware stores have large pieces of rubber that are generally used to cut "custom" gaskets that will hold air-tight seal with appropriate clamps / backing. Similarly old school handy guys will use "uncured" rubber to create an air tight seal when "glued" onto CLEAN metal surfaces -- wire brush off any surface rust, use alchol to prep the surface and have at it...
Ultimately you need a new tank and the steps you ought to take to ensure it remains rust free include being extra careful in positioning it to avoid moisture from leading to another early failure.
If you can find one (yes they do make them)-
Use a worm gear hose clamp that will go around the tank; a piece of rubber over the hole and clamp in place. You'll be using the same principle as a saddle valve.
That should hold ya until the thing explodes leaving you with a bigger mess!- just sayin'
Yes!!!! I can see this working! Now to find one...hmmmm Thanks!
There are a whole lot of "temporary fixes" that kinda sorta will help you get over the hump and so long as they are cheap and not unsafe it is probably worth playing with -- most hardware stores have large pieces of rubber that are generally used to cut "custom" gaskets that will hold air-tight seal with appropriate clamps / backing. Similarly old school handy guys will use "uncured" rubber to create an air tight seal when "glued" onto CLEAN metal surfaces -- wire brush off any surface rust, use alchol to prep the surface and have at it...
Ultimately you need a new tank and the steps you ought to take to ensure it remains rust free include being extra careful in positioning it to avoid moisture from leading to another early failure.
How do you avoid moisture in regards to a water pressure tank?
FWIW, I replaced my rusted steel tank with a fiberglass Wellmate tank.
I think you hit the nail of the head when it comes to choosing a good material -- if you can get something that does not ever rust, like fiberglass or blow-molded plastic that will last far longer than steel, especially if you have reactive water. For folks that do have reactive water the effort on getting a properly designed conditioning system to make the water neutral pH / decrease mineral content is well worth it.
The other part of the equation is for folks that have a PRESSURE tank that holds AIR inside a rubber bladder the RUST often comes from not following the recommended maintenance to be sure that the interal AIR side is DRY. I have often seen such tanks installed in DAMP basements or carports unprotected from the weather and in such case the WEATHER conditions greatly accelerate their failure. In contrast when folks can install inside the conditioned space of a properly ventilated utility space there are far less issues with surface rust being a factor.
I think you hit the nail of the head when it comes to choosing a good material -- if you can get something that does not ever rust, like fiberglass or blow-molded plastic that will last far longer than steel, especially if you have reactive water. For folks that do have reactive water the effort on getting a properly designed conditioning system to make the water neutral pH / decrease mineral content is well worth it.
The other part of the equation is for folks that have a PRESSURE tank that holds AIR inside a rubber bladder the RUST often comes from not following the recommended maintenance to be sure that the interal AIR side is DRY. I have often seen such tanks installed in DAMP basements or carports unprotected from the weather and in such case the WEATHER conditions greatly accelerate their failure. In contrast when folks can install inside the conditioned space of a properly ventilated utility space there are far less issues with surface rust being a factor.
That is why professionals use fiberglass tanks.....we even bury then at times.
Great info! What all does it entail to go with a fiberglass tank? Extra equipment? routine maintenance? I'm ignorant about this - but want and NEED to learn! All this help is greatly appreciated :-)
Great info! What all does it entail to go with a fiberglass tank? Extra equipment? routine maintenance? I'm ignorant about this - but want and NEED to learn! All this help is greatly appreciated :-)
Nothing different at all......they just hold up longer.
There are many different styles....just look around the site.
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