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Old 03-02-2014, 10:28 AM
 
Location: Connectucut shore but on a hill
2,619 posts, read 7,028,492 times
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My latest adventure is the discovery of 2 studs with gaps in them, i.e., there's about a 2' of stud attached to the header and a 3' section nailed to the footer. The wall is about 4' wide, non-load bearing. I found it replacing the bottom piece of sheetrock, which had been damaged. This apparently occurred in some long distant remodeling but for the life of me I can't figure out why (or why they didn't replace them down the road instead of sheetrocking over them).

Anyway here's my question: Is this a violation of any known building code? Obviously it's a poor practice, I know that.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:35 AM
QIS
 
920 posts, read 5,146,159 times
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Hi,
Yes! The placement of structural members, including studs is prescribed in the building code> put some new ones in where the cut ones are and you will be good!
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:43 AM
 
4,511 posts, read 5,049,454 times
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If the wall is non-load bearing, it makes no difference. I'm sure there was a reason for removing that section of the stud but it's impossible to know why now. Don't worry about it. You could have just nailed a 2x4 to what was there.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:59 AM
 
Location: Connectucut shore but on a hill
2,619 posts, read 7,028,492 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nodpete View Post
If the wall is non-load bearing, it makes no difference. I'm sure there was a reason for removing that section of the stud but it's impossible to know why now. Don't worry about it. You could have just nailed a 2x4 to what was there.
Not without ripping out more sheetrock and substantially complicating the job. It's basically an oversized closet. Thanks.
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Old 03-02-2014, 11:25 AM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,625 posts, read 12,288,797 times
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Studs should run from sole plate to top plate. If 2 or more studs are terminated for whatever reason a header should be used. 1" for every foot is a good rule, so a 4' span would need a 4x4. 2x4's may be substituted stood up sandwiched with 1/2 ply spiked every 8".
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Old 03-02-2014, 02:01 PM
 
Location: Knoxville
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Non load bearing walls don't have same requirements.
Headers are not required in non load bearing walls (ref R602.7.2 2006 IRC).
Walls don't have the same requirements in non load bearing walls either. They can be 2x3's @ 24" on center in some cases. (ref R602.5 2006 IRC).
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:32 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,625 posts, read 12,288,797 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barking Spider View Post
Non load bearing walls don't have same requirements.
Headers are not required in non load bearing walls (ref R602.7.2 2006 IRC).
Walls don't have the same requirements in non load bearing walls either. They can be 2x3's @ 24" on center in some cases. (ref R602.5 2006 IRC).
R602.5 Interior nonbearing walls.

Interior nonbearing walls shall be permitted to be constructed with 2-inch-by-3-inch (51 mm by 76 mm) studs spaced 24 inches (610 mm) on center or, when not part of a braced wall line, 2-inch-by-4-inch (51 mm by 102 mm) flat studs spaced at 16 inches (406 mm) on center. Interior nonbearing walls shall be capped with at least a single top plate. Interior nonbearing walls shall be fireblocked in accordance with Section R602.8.

Where does this say that studs do not have to run from sole plate to top plate? Therefore, when a single stud is terminated it may be headed off with a single 2x4, but when two or more studs are terminated a header must be used to maintain wall continuity.

See here for more information:

2308.9.1 Size, height and spacing.
The size, height and spacing of studs shall be in accordance with Table 2308.9.1 except that utility-grade studs shall not be spaced more than 16 inches (406 mm) o.c., or support more than a roof and ceiling, or exceed 8 feet (2438 mm) in height for exterior walls and load-bearing walls or 10 feet (3048 mm) for interior nonload-bearing walls. Studs shall be continuous from a support at the sole plate to a support at the top plate to resist loads perpendicular to the wall. The support shall be a foundation or floor, ceiling or roof diaphragm or shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice.

Exception: Jack studs, trimmer studs and cripple studs at openings in walls that comply with Table 2308.9.5.

My stud termination observation is correct if you study this section of the code better. The residential code assumes one has the understanding of the code.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:48 PM
 
Location: Knoxville
4,705 posts, read 25,291,381 times
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MR Willy's, since I don't know the spacing of the cut studs, or if they are next to each other or not, I was just pointing out that wall studs in non load bearing walls do not have to be on 16" centers.
I was also pointing out that there does not have to be a header like the 4x4 you were suggesting.
Since the wall was only 4' wide, there really only needs to be a full stud at each end and one in the middle.

Of course the studs should go from sill plate to top plate! Any idiot that knows their way around a hammer and nail apron should know that. However, in a 4' non bearing wall, there is not a lot that can seriously impact the structure.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:10 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,625 posts, read 12,288,797 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barking Spider View Post
MR Willy's, since I don't know the spacing of the cut studs, or if they are next to each other or not, I was just pointing out that wall studs in non load bearing walls do not have to be on 16" centers.
Don't you think people like us have an obligation to give proper advice? Of course, I know you do.

He has 2 terminated studs in 4', so we know it's 16 oc. Therefore, stud termination rules apply. Can he rip it completely apart and put 1 stud in the center. Yes
Quote:
I was also pointing out that there does not have to be a header like the 4x4 you were suggesting.
Since the wall was only 4' wide, there really only needs to be a full stud at each end and one in the middle.
This would only be true if he torn it completely apart and placed a single stud in the center. To do a proper repair with 2 terminated studs it must be a header. He said he did not want to tear it apart completely.

Quote:
Of course the studs should go from sill plate to top plate! Any idiot that knows their way around a hammer and nail apron should know that. However, in a 4' non bearing wall, there is not a lot that can seriously impact the structure.
This is not true, and why we educate ourselves to make sure the idiot does it correctly. You are correct that chances are it would have little impact to the structure, but a single 2x4 for 2 terminations is not proper. There was a lot of misinformation given in the beginning of this thread, and I expect both you and I to hold our responses to a higher standard. It is my goal to answer on subject matter I feel confident in responding to, and not what color paint should I use.

Honestly, I wouldn't have questioned a 3rd generation framer with a degree in construction inspection, but you chose too?
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Old 03-02-2014, 06:52 PM
 
Location: Columbia, California
6,664 posts, read 30,605,568 times
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Wow, what a pissing match
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