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So I was expecting to find some kind of space at the back of the granite when I removed the 4" piece of granite from the wall since there is a weird angle in my kitchen. I know it doesn't usually sit flush with the wall since the back piece conceals any less-than-perfect cuts. However, there is one place where the space is pretty big and I am not sure how to handle it.
I can't really build the wall up with cement board because of the weird angle right above the space in the counter, plus there is an outlet butting right up to that angled corner that would need to be moved and I am not comfortable doing that.
Would filling it with clear silicone caulk look terrible? The counter is a pretty busy pattern and it is back in a corner but I am concerned about eventual resale and the quality of work.
Also, this particular tile does not have a decorative bullnose or other edge piece that I can use. Should I finish the visible edges with paintable caulk or silicone caulk? I have seen both mentioned in tutorials. I was leaning towards clear silicone caulk because I think it would look better...has anyone done a glass tile backsplash that could show me a picture of how you finished the edges?
A pro would probably cut out the existing drywall / backerboard, re-shim the studs, lay up new backerboard so that the surface has a uniform gap against the countertop and is sealed against any "splashes" so everything is hyginic.
Silicone is going to look amatuer and probably breakdown / collect a mess over time.
Other things a pro could do to remedy the problem, other than explained by Chet above:
A pro would shim and install the backsplash, carefully seal the bottom edge of the backsplash with clear silicone to prevent moisture from flowing between the backsplash and the countertop, and then seal the gap between the wall and the backsplash with paintable silicone caulk (or latex/acrylic caulk). The same pro would use a razor blade's corner to scrape the pint of contact between the counter and the backsplash to remove any trace of clear silicone. This is done right after applying the silicone.
But before doing all this work above, a pro would plane-out any high spots on the sheetrock where the countertop is supposed to rest against, and then install the countertop. Sometimes a pro has no choice but to dig into the drywall to allow the countertop to move in closer to the stud.
What the OP needs to do is to let a pro look at the work and see what he or she suggests.
Ah, forgot to mention that you could buy a new backsplash that's thicker than the old one. The one at my kitchen is made of 1" thick granite (1" thick x 4" tall). It's also made of the same granite as the counter, so it matches perfectly.
Ah, forgot to mention that you could buy a new backsplash that's thicker than the old one. The one at my kitchen is made of 1" thick granite (1" thick x 4" tall). It's also made of the same granite as the counter, so it matches perfectly.
Well the old 4" backsplash that I just removed was thick enough to cover this gap completely, it's just the new glass tile I'm doing all the way from the counter to cabinets is a bit thinner. I don't think I have seen glass tile that is thicker than this. I think I am going to try a thicker layer of mortar on that wall and hopefully it brings the tile forward enough to cover most of the gap. I just dropped money on new appliances so I don't have much left to consult a professional.
Another thing I just thought of is that since this run of counter has this slight gap between it and the wall, when I set the tiles are they going to stay put or slide down? There is nothing to support them or set a spacer on. I could fill the gap in with something if that will be a problem. I've never tiled on a vertical surface before.
Well the old 4" backsplash that I just removed was thick enough to cover this gap completely, it's just the new glass tile I'm doing all the way from the counter to cabinets is a bit thinner. I don't think I have seen glass tile that is thicker than this. I think I am going to try a thicker layer of mortar on that wall and hopefully it brings the tile forward enough to cover most of the gap. I just dropped money on new appliances so I don't have much left to consult a professional.
Another thing I just thought of is that since this run of counter has this slight gap between it and the wall, when I set the tiles are they going to stay put or slide down? There is nothing to support them or set a spacer on. I could fill the gap in with something if that will be a problem. I've never tiled on a vertical surface before.
I'm no expert, but I think that the thinset will push the tiles out enough to cover most of those gaps.
Not 100% sure, its hard to tell from the angle.
Well the old 4" backsplash that I just removed was thick enough to cover this gap completely, it's just the new glass tile I'm doing all the way from the counter to cabinets is a bit thinner. I don't think I have seen glass tile that is thicker than this. I think I am going to try a thicker layer of mortar on that wall and hopefully it brings the tile forward enough to cover most of the gap. I just dropped money on new appliances so I don't have much left to consult a professional.
Another thing I just thought of is that since this run of counter has this slight gap between it and the wall, when I set the tiles are they going to stay put or slide down? There is nothing to support them or set a spacer on. I could fill the gap in with something if that will be a problem. I've never tiled on a vertical surface before.
My suggestion would be to find some area that is not using your granite countertop to practice.
Get some inexpensive glass tile and mount a backerboard to the wall in your garage and practice. Mount the backer so it can be removed when you are done, even if there are tile attached to it. Much less expensive than making your first attempt in your kitchen above your granite ... and having to remove it again.
By the way, are you going to just attach your glass tile to painted drywall, or are you planning to put a backer board up?
It pushes all the backsplash out 1/4", covers the gaps. Recepticles can be moved out with shims and longer screws.
It's backsplash- between the counter top and the wall cabinet- 18". Use construction adhesive and a few screws at studs- no need to tape and bed- it's going to be covered by the tile. Y'all make a mountain out of a mole hill.
Or; better yet, if the excessive gap is only a few inches in length float that part of the wall out with some 20min mud- go from the 1/4" to nothin. Then tile.
It pushes all the backsplash out 1/4", covers the gaps. Recepticles can be moved out with shims and longer screws.
It's backsplash- between the counter top and the wall cabinet- 18". Use construction adhesive and a few screws at studs- no need to tape and bed- it's going to be covered by the tile. Y'all make a mountain out of a mole hill.
Or; better yet, if the excessive gap is only a few inches in length float that part of the wall out with some 20min mud- go from the 1/4" to nothin. Then tile.
Well I considered that but there are no cabinets on this wall above the gap, just a window. I would either have to add a layer of drywall all the way up the wall or the tile would stick out too far from the wall since I am only going part way up with it. Also, on one side it is a 90 degree angle but the other side is an odd angle so I don't know how good I could make it look on that edge.
I do think it is a fairly short run that has the large gap. Towards the right side of that run the gap is small enough that the tile will cover it. Your second suggestion sounds pretty good.
My suggestion would be to find some area that is not using your granite countertop to practice.
Get some inexpensive glass tile and mount a backerboard to the wall in your garage and practice. Mount the backer so it can be removed when you are done, even if there are tile attached to it. Much less expensive than making your first attempt in your kitchen above your granite ... and having to remove it again.
By the way, are you going to just attach your glass tile to painted drywall, or are you planning to put a backer board up?
I have seen instructions both ways. I was planning on sanding the painted wall really well and just applying the mortar to that. The tile is just glass, nothing too heavy. Do you think I need backer board?
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