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Perhaps all the desk lamps I have had had a caution warning to the effect that, to avoid fire, please use only max 25 (or 40) watt. I can understand it if it has a vulnerable shade material, but even with metal shade it has such warning. What makes it more dangerous with, say, 60w or 75w than a ceiling light?
These are now being made cheap. 18 gauge zip cord used to be the standard, the cords on these have considerably thinner conductors. Sockets and switches are similarly being made of less massive material.
Perhaps all the desk lamps I have had had a caution warning to the effect that, to avoid fire, please use only max 25 (or 40) watt. I can understand it if it has a vulnerable shade material, but even with metal shade it has such warning. What makes it more dangerous with, say, 60w or 75w than a ceiling light?
Keep in mind that these numbers are for incandescent light bulbs and not CFLs or LEDs.
18 gauge zip cord used to be the standard, the cords on these have considerably thinner conductors. Sockets and switches are similarly being made of less massive material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiogirl81
Because the fixture isn't wired to handle increased wattage?
Ok I see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pruzhany
Keep in mind that these numbers are for incandescent light bulbs and not CFLs or LEDs.
Is it? I have had a hard time getting a direct answer if a fixture labeled for a 60 watt bulb is limited to a CFL that puts out the EQUIVILANT of 60 watt or if it means an actual power usage of 60 watt (Which would allow a larger CFL bulb) And I have not seen a fixture labeled for a max of a 13w CFL (But I am mainly dealing with fixtures that came out before CFLs)
Perhaps all the desk lamps I have had had a caution warning to the effect that, to avoid fire, please use only max 25 (or 40) watt. I can understand it if it has a vulnerable shade material, but even with metal shade it has such warning. What makes it more dangerous with, say, 60w or 75w than a ceiling light?
Ceiling lights usually have a layer of insulating material on the top surface between the ceiling and the light assembly. Most times the insulating material is made of fiberglass. Also, ceiling lights usually have a warning notice relating to the maximum light wattage.
Incandescent or halogen light bulbs produce a lot of heat, and the higher the wattage the more heat they produce. Halogen lights are notorious for producing high heat, and incandescent are next. Anyway, just keep in mind that regardless of light bulb or tube used, the lowest the wattage the lower the heat dissipated.
Just choose light bulbs, or tubes, or spiral (whatever) that produce the amount of light you want, but that are of the lowest wattage possible. LED lights seem to produce less heat than CFLs of the same wattage, and in general CFLs and LED lights produce the same light output of incandescent and halogen lights, but use little power. That's why they run cooler.
Summary: high watt = high heat. Low watt = low heat
Two issues here- (1) current-carrying capacity of the conductors and (2) heat.
Both are reduced for any resonable CFL bulb compared to incandescent.
I would not hesitate to use a CFL rated less than the maximum power draw (not equivalent light output!). Provided, of course, that it fits well mechanically.
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