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Old 07-16-2014, 09:03 PM
 
Location: Midwest City, Oklahoma
14,848 posts, read 8,207,531 times
Reputation: 4590

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The question goes like this.

If Mortar type M is rated for 2500 PSI(with some brands reaching almost 3000 psi). And standard 1-2-3 mix concrete is rated for 3000 PSI(which is good enough for almost every concrete application).

Different Types of Mortar Mixes

Type N, S, M Masonry Cement & Mortar - CEMEX USA


Then would there be a problem in using Mortar type M to make something like a patio? Since it is basically the same PSI as concrete?


The only differences I can foresee, is possibly a change in lateral strength(which could be offset with mesh reinforcement). Or that the smaller pore size of the mortar(since it uses finer sand) and its reduced permeability(as a result of the inclusion of lime), might change its water wicking/expansion behavior.



It seems to me that mortar is usually more "sticky" than concrete. So you would think its lateral strength would be greater than concrete. But when I tried to find information, most people's answers refer to "typical mortar". Which has compression strengths ranging from about 300-1500 psi(far lower than type M).

Obviously I shouldn't use 300-700 psi mortar to make a "slab". But I don't see why 2500 psi mortar would make a bad slab?


I say this because, I know they use cement for "CEB" blocks as a stabilizer(to prevent weathering) for making blocks out of basically plain old dirt(which is usually full of clay, and thus has more shrinkage).


Secondly, what about a 1-3 or 1-4 cement to sand ratio? Wouldn't that be able to make a sufficient patio slab?
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:23 PM
 
28,453 posts, read 85,379,084 times
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I think you may be confusing "old fashioned" mortar. Modern mortar is essentially a specific cementatious mixture. Mortar
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:41 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,475 posts, read 66,054,754 times
Reputation: 23621
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redshadowz View Post
The question goes like this.

If Mortar type M is rated for 2500 PSI(with some brands reaching almost 3000 psi). And standard 1-2-3 mix concrete is rated for 3000 PSI(which is good enough for almost every concrete application).

Different Types of Mortar Mixes

Type N, S, M Masonry Cement & Mortar - CEMEX USA


Then would there be a problem in using Mortar type M to make something like a patio? Since it is basically the same PSI as concrete?


The only differences I can foresee, is possibly a change in lateral strength(which could be offset with mesh reinforcement). Or that the smaller pore size of the mortar(since it uses finer sand) and its reduced permeability(as a result of the inclusion of lime), might change its water wicking/expansion behavior.



It seems to me that mortar is usually more "sticky" than concrete. So you would think its lateral strength would be greater than concrete. But when I tried to find information, most people's answers refer to "typical mortar". Which has compression strengths ranging from about 300-1500 psi(far lower than type M).

Obviously I shouldn't use 300-700 psi mortar to make a "slab". But I don't see why 2500 psi mortar would make a bad slab?


I say this because, I know they use cement for "CEB" blocks as a stabilizer(to prevent weathering) for making blocks out of basically plain old dirt(which is usually full of clay, and thus has more shrinkage).


Secondly, what about a 1-3 or 1-4 cement to sand ratio? Wouldn't that be able to make a sufficient patio slab?

Why?
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:46 PM
 
Location: Sarasota FL
6,864 posts, read 12,078,177 times
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Mortar uses a finer grade of sand, has less sand and is usually used as a 'glue' for things like stacking bricks, holding a wall of stones together, grout for floor tile.
Concrete is for structural strength and thickness, has more sand, and usually pebbles or stones.
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