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Old 07-20-2014, 10:17 AM
 
4,761 posts, read 14,259,581 times
Reputation: 7957

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Polarized outlets and plugs are mostly for safety, not for the proper operation of the device*. (Nothing to do with + and - which is DC or "Direct Current" electricity.)

And yes the AC gizmos would work just fine plugged in the opposite way...

But there are safety concerns with certain electrical devices. Like light fixtures where you use your hands to change a light bulb. You get shocked by touching the "hot" conductor, so that intentionally goes to the switch and also goes to the center conductor in the bottom of the light socket (the polarized plug makes SURE that happens!). Then if you accidentally touch the metal ring of the bulb when replacing it, you will not be shocked.

*Some older radios may use the polarized connection to help with reception. I don't know if this is done any more?

How a lamp is properly wired...
Wiring a Plug: Replacing a Plug and Rewiring Electronics: The Family Handyman

 
Old 07-20-2014, 11:45 AM
 
2,994 posts, read 5,575,895 times
Reputation: 4690
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWillys View Post
Oh please, really. If you don't understand the subject matter don't post. A toaster does not even have a grounding conductor, because it is double insulated. The blade on the grounded (what you call a neutral) conductor is larger too assure it is capable of carrying the load greater than the supply. If you read and understand the NEC enough you'd know the code considers the grounded conductor to be very important, and is to never depend on a device (except in the case of GFCI). The grounding conductor is for equipment grounding for items that are not double insulated. A Skilsaw is an example that comes with a grounding conductor, but is double insulated.

So, as I said earlier it is for user safety by making sure the return path is always more capable than supply. I MAKE NO CLAIM TO BE AN ELECTRICIAN, BUT SOMEONE WHO HAS STUDIED THE CODE.
As an electrician i think you should also learn the subject before you try to teach. The code book is not made for diyers it is there for industry professionals and electricians. It is not written in lay mans terms for a reason.

Also the code book is a small part of being an electrician.
 
Old 07-20-2014, 12:38 PM
 
28,111 posts, read 63,561,058 times
Reputation: 23250
Changes and revisions are made with the goal of improving safety.

One of my first homes was built in 1910 and I have a copy of the 1910 electrical permit and 75 years later it was still functioning as designed...

A light socket with pull chain except for the push button switch in the front room and a single... meaning not a double outlet in each room except the bathroom outlet was on the light fixture.

I lived there over a year before pulling a permit to set a new service.

The original outlets were not polarized and specking of toasters... I found one in the back of the hall closet and it was not polarized either...

Looks just like this...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/litlnemo/4180146566/

I would say the most convoluted and cobbed together electrical I've seen first hand is on a ranch that has been in the same family for 160 years...

On a separate note... my brother just bought a home and the A/C didn't work (It did during the Home Inspection)... the seller hired an electrician to install a new service as a condition of the sale...

The electrician had both legs of the A/C on the same side of the panel... glad it was a simple fix for him and me.
 
Old 07-20-2014, 03:43 PM
 
2,994 posts, read 5,575,895 times
Reputation: 4690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrarunner View Post
Changes and revisions are made with the goal of improving safety.

One of my first homes was built in 1910 and I have a copy of the 1910 electrical permit and 75 years later it was still functioning as designed...

A light socket with pull chain except for the push button switch in the front room and a single... meaning not a double outlet in each room except the bathroom outlet was on the light fixture.

I lived there over a year before pulling a permit to set a new service.

The original outlets were not polarized and specking of toasters... I found one in the back of the hall closet and it was not polarized either...

Looks just like this...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/litlnemo/4180146566/

I would say the most convoluted and cobbed together electrical I've seen first hand is on a ranch that has been in the same family for 160 years...

On a separate note... my brother just bought a home and the A/C didn't work (It did during the Home Inspection)... the seller hired an electrician to install a new service as a condition of the sale...

The electrician had both legs of the A/C on the same side of the panel... glad it was a simple fix for him and me.
What do you mean both legs on the same side? There is no way to have a 240v circuit breaker have both poles on the same leg. The buss bars alternate every other spot. A double pole breaker attaches to both buss bars in a single phase panel.
 
Old 07-20-2014, 11:28 PM
 
28,111 posts, read 63,561,058 times
Reputation: 23250
The panel has a double breaker, sometimes called half size or space saver, that takes up a single slot and provides two 30 amp breakers and both breakers draw from the same lug.

Called the Electrician that billed for the job and he apologized and said he let his helper finish out the box???

Eaton Space Save Breaker 2-1Pole 20A - Home Depot Canada - Toronto
 
Old 07-21-2014, 02:23 AM
 
106,329 posts, read 108,357,831 times
Reputation: 79888
its called a twin breaker and is for 120v devices
 
Old 07-21-2014, 08:55 AM
 
2,994 posts, read 5,575,895 times
Reputation: 4690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrarunner View Post
The panel has a double breaker, sometimes called half size or space saver, that takes up a single slot and provides two 30 amp breakers and both breakers draw from the same lug.

Called the Electrician that billed for the job and he apologized and said he let his helper finish out the box???

Eaton Space Save Breaker 2-1Pole 20A - Home Depot Canada - Toronto
Yeah those are called tandem breakers or we call them twins sometimes.
 
Old 07-21-2014, 09:55 AM
 
28,111 posts, read 63,561,058 times
Reputation: 23250
I would have thought an electrical contractor on a county inspected/permitted job would know better and therein lies the problem...

It was Sunday and HOT... helping my brother and family get settled and he says the A/C isn't working... could not reach the seller, electrical contractor or the Real Estate agent.

Brother tells me there is power at the unit...

I'm thinking what changed and remembered the new service had been installed Friday... and sure enough, in the transition, power to the A/C was no longer correctly wired at the panel...
 
Old 07-21-2014, 04:13 PM
 
2,994 posts, read 5,575,895 times
Reputation: 4690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrarunner View Post
I would have thought an electrical contractor on a county inspected/permitted job would know better and therein lies the problem...

It was Sunday and HOT... helping my brother and family get settled and he says the A/C isn't working... could not reach the seller, electrical contractor or the Real Estate agent.

Brother tells me there is power at the unit...

I'm thinking what changed and remembered the new service had been installed Friday... and sure enough, in the transition, power to the A/C was no longer correctly wired at the panel...
And who verified it was incorrectly wired?
 
Old 07-21-2014, 07:35 PM
 
28,111 posts, read 63,561,058 times
Reputation: 23250
I did... used my meter to check the outlet... 123 on both to ground, nothing between the two.

I'm not an electrician although for 23 years I've been the a Director of Engineering for a hospital
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