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If you want a long lasting tiled shower, DuRock or Backer board is the way to go, and you don't have to finish anything. I use fiberglass tape at the joints and corners as explained in my previous post. Good tapers know how to do such things. Yes, it adds to the cost, but saves you a lot of headaches in the long run, because green board is not moisture proof. Water will eventually zip through the grout and soften the wall behind the tiles. I do this kind of work for a living.
Now, contractors who are asked to save labor cost by the owner would use whatever the owner wants, but at my own house I would never use green board for the shower walls.
In general. That is not code compliant. You still need either drywall or 1" plaster under it to meet fire code requirement then a water proof membrane with the backer board over it to meet plumbing code requirements.
Dosent mean people ever do it right thou.
The guy here that builds quality showers always uses RedGard over the green board before tiling. Claims it has eliminated problems moisture problems.
Redgard is good. costs a lot thou and if you are not careful you get runs that are difficult to deal with.
You still need to use either a mortar base or backer board of some type below the tile.
If you want a long lasting tiled shower, DuRock or Backer board is the way to go, and you don't have to finish anything. I use fiberglass tape at the joints and corners as explained in my previous post. Good tapers know how to do such things. Yes, it adds to the cost, but saves you a lot of headaches in the long run, because green board is not moisture proof. Water will eventually zip through the grout and soften the wall behind the tiles. I do this kind of work for a living.
Now, contractors who are asked to save labor cost by the owner would use whatever the owner wants, but at my own house I would never use green board for the shower walls.
Agreed. Cement board only for tiled walls in wet areas. I'm specifically using Hardi-board for my shower walls then transition to green-board for the painted walls.
(I'm about to begin a full bath remodel. I'm currently down to the studs.)
What brand/style do you recommend for cement board fasteners?
Redgard is good. costs a lot thou and if you are not careful you get runs that are difficult to deal with.
You still need to use either a mortar base or backer board of some type below the tile.
Redgard not DIY friendly?
would Redgard over Hardi-board provide double moisture protection? How about 4ml plastic sheathing between studs and Hardi-board for 3 times protection?
I used cement board with 3-4 coats of red guard...the redguard coating made it very hard to see water getting to anything. You could probably water proof a cardboard box with that stuff.
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Optimistic question
