Need help for solving foundation crack and gap between siding and foundation (vinyl, windows)

[mattbob]

Hello all - I am very new here and in need of some recommendations on what do do with a crack (turning into chunk missing) in my foundation. Please see the attached pictures and let me know what product you would use for fixing this issue, or if someone will have to come look at it. Also, you will notice one of the pictures shows a gap between the siding and foundation of the house. Could I use backer rod and a sealant so there is no gap? Please let me know your thoughts.

[QIS]

Hi Matt,
Are you in the southwest?
The foundation has cracks and imperfections that were more or less a result of how the foundation was placed: they do not appear to be structurally significant.
Sealing of the cracks using concrete patch material will work- some of the mixes at the big box stores have good adhesion. You must clean the cracks and imperfections prior to the application of this type of material.
You can also sponge some regular latex caulking into or onto the imperfections and cracks to help seal out extraneous moisture and bugs.
If you look at the pictures you will notice there is a fine white powder at the bottom of the crack: the exposed part of the foundation has been painted and that is driving moisture up the concrete and that moisture "congregates" at the crack area. It makes sense of course as concrete is placed in the ground and the ground gets wet., perfectly normal and expected. The white powder is from dissolved minerals precipitating out when they become halted or heavy in solution (commonly called efflorescence). Bottom line is that you can anticipate this may be a periodic maintenance issue/ sealing and patching may not be permanent due to moisture contact and movement.
The way the siding is terminated was a common practice in the 70s and 80s (this house?). The better way to do it (commonly prescriptive now) is to place a nice flashing on the sole plate, then install the felt paper, then the siding so the siding will drain nice and the appearance of this detail is nicer.
Right now if you seal or block this gap you could actually trap water/moisture at the bottom of the wall if there is any water intrusion above ( yes even interior flooding-God forbid). ...so sealing that gap may do harm/cause damage.....short of redoing that detail, you might want to just occasionally spray for bugs and don't spray water up into that gap.

[K'ledgeBldr]

The siding is "T1-11"; and the way it was installed suggested that it is 5/8" structural grade. Usually horizonal butt joints would include "Z-bar" flashing. What you have would be considered "industry standard" at the time it was installed- definitely not today. It's amazing the things we learn from "mistakes".

Can it be sealed?- yes. But at what cost vs. ROI? Most methods I have seen are expensive, labor intensive, and the end result isn't very attractive- but using the right paint (body instead of trim) helps.

As for the concrete slab- the pics are too close to tell exactly what's going on. As to repairing, and/or cosmetically restoring, only a physical inspection will decide.

[QIS]

Matt, its not T1-11, its hardboard panels which is possibly worse than t1-11 durability-wise and is does not have a structural rating.

[K'ledgeBldr]

Originally Posted by QIS

...its not T1-11...

Yes, IT IS T1-11!
T1-11 is a patented "design". Those 1" grooves are a dead giveaway it's T1-11.

As to it actual physical makeup, that's a bit hard to do with those pics but it is "possible" that it could be an OSB or hardboard-faced type T1-11 siding. But seeing that there is no delaminating or material rot at the bottom edge I believe you have regular 5-layer plywood.

[QIS]

Nope, not even close to t1 11. t111 grooves have a striated pattern between the raised panels. The grooves are not even 1"

[TrapperL]

Matt, from the pics which aren't all that great, the crack you have concerns over appears to be a cold joint. That's where the concrete truck didn't get to the pour on time and the previous load setup. Then the fresh concrete is poured on top of it creating this type of joint. But, the pics aren't all that great. They are too close to the slab. If your house still has a builder warranty, I'd have them come check it out. It may need to be epoxy injected if it is a cold joint.

[mrpeatie]

I'm going to vote not T1-11. T1-11 usually has a decent depth to the grove to give a nice line & that looks rather shallow. It might be the equivalent of a press board type product.

The first thing I would do is call Ramjack, Mount Valley or the like for a free inspection estimate. Cheap way to see if there is a bigger issue at hand.

Then think about ripping off the bottom couple of inches and shimming the framing, flashing the bottom of the siding and putting a piece of trim at the base. There is something going on there- hopefully just settling in one spot. Also caulk/sealer/backer rod are your friends. That looks like a friendly path for any number of nuisances on (multiple) legs.

[fixhome]

Knowing the early warning signs of foundation troubles can head off problems that ultimately could cost tens of thousands of dollars to fix. The sooner you identify potential problems, the easier — and less expensive — it is to fix them.

The 4 Basic Indoor Warning Signs


1. A door begins to jam or fails to latch.

2. Cracks appear in walls, especially over doorways, windows, or where walls meet ceilings.

3. Cracks open in vinyl or ceramic tile over a concrete floor.

4. Windows that used to open and close easily suddenly begin to stick or won’t close completely.

[fixhome]

The foundation slab at my house has an excessive number of smaller cracks or cracks that are larger than 1/4 inch wide, i think the damage is severe. what should i do..need help?