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We currently have a gas dryer. But the gas is hooked up by original (from the 1950s) gas piping that is looking very old. One elbow of the pipe is slightly leaking gas. Our utility provider took a look at it, says it needs to be fixed, but it's not an emergency situation.
We had someone come look at it. He suggested that replace all of the old pipe with new coppers piping. They are charging $1,400 for this. That seems like a lot! It's about six feet of pipe.
So, I started to thinking about just capping the gas pipe and replacing it our gas dryer with an electric dryer. (Our current dryer is 7 years old.) I know we'd need a 240V for that, and I can't tell if we have that or not. (Anyone know how to tell?) Would it be MORE expensive to buy a new electric dryer and possibly input a 240V than $1,400?
So, I started to thinking about just capping the gas pipe and replacing it our gas dryer with an electric dryer. (Our current dryer is 7 years old.) I know we'd need a 240V for that, and I can't tell if we have that or not. (Anyone know how to tell?) Would it be MORE expensive to buy a new electric dryer and possibly input a 240V than $1,400?
First of all, I would try duct tape and keeping your current system until the dryer breaks. Seven years old could be only a third of it's functional age.
That said, you should not quantify choices as LESS/MORE expensive. Ultimately you are better off with the gas dryer, but if the payback period for the $1400 is 20 years, then you may not want to go with that option. It's like saying a $25 LED lightbulb is better in the long run than a 50 cent incandescent bulb. That statement is always true but the payback period for a lightbulb that is on 24/7 is very different than one in a remote closet that is turned on for a few minutes a month.
Average electric dryers use between 1,800 to 5,000 watts or 1.8 to 5 kilowatt hours. Using $.14 per kilowatt hour for an example, most electric dryers average between $.25 and $.70 to run for an hour. The more expensive the electric dryer you choose the better the efficiency.
Now your investment amount is $1400-price of electric dryer. Depending on the wattage of the dryer you pick (say 3000 watts or 3*$0.14=42 cents per hour) you can count your payback period in hours. If you are looking at a $400 dryer, than difference is $1000 or 2382 hours. Based on the number of people in your home the payback period of staying with the gas dryer may be a little over a year.
You really should add a fudge factor as the gas dryer does use a little electricity plus the gas.
All in all, electric dryers are one of the most expensive appliances to run. If you have gas, and you will be in your house for a few years, then I would stay with gas.
But, frankly, I would use duct tape or try and get some more estimates on fixing the gas pipe.
As to your final question, if you have 120 volts, then you can wire it with two wires and get 240 volts. You do need 30 Amp connection however. A 30 Amp connection is a very thick wire and the appliance is usually hardwired (no plug). Unlike 15 Amp and 20 Amp connections which run to lights and most outlets, you usually put in a 30 Amp or higher connection specifically for something (range, hot water heater, oven, sauna, giant air conditioning unit, etc).
The question is are you overloading your house with too many appliances. The answer is almost certainly no. The biggest problem with overloading a house, is that you have an old home with 100 Amp service and you want to install electric heat. You will probably have to upgrade to 200 Amp service. Likewise if you have an old house and you want to put in an electric dryer, an electric range, an electric stove, and an electric water heater. Then you might have a problem.
Buying and installing a new electric dryer is not going to be cheap either. The electric is going to be double to three times the cost of the gas to run in most areas and that is unlikely to change in the near future. The answer is fix the gas, have some other people look at it for other quotes. The piping most like doesn't need to be replaced.
Find a different person to fix the gas pipe. 6ft for $1400? That's outrageous! It's will be more work and cost for you to run 240 electric then fixing the gas pipe.
You can try just tightening the old elbow. You always tighten gas pipe you never loosen it. Is the elbow visible or inside the wall. If it's visible accessible easy peazy all you need is pipe wrenches. Turn off gas. Put a wrench on the pipe to clamp/hold it remove old elbow. Pipe dope and then install new elbow and then the stub nipple.Tighten it till you can't tighten it anymore then soapy water to check for bubbles. Re secure pipe to stud.
Even if you have to cut drywall you can diy. Post a pic. So we can see.
$1400 isn't outrageous if they have to cut drywall, demo old pipe, install new pipe, close wall texture and repaint. A drywaller will charge 2-300 to patch and texture. Painter same. 1400 to just repair pipe no other work is a lot.
Minimum 30 amp breaker wire is 10/3. Anything smaller will get hot and can screw things up. Granted length/distance of run receptacle lug size and appliance requirements all make a difference. You may have to step to a 8 ga. I can tell you running the electrical can cost more especially if you don't have the capacity in the panel you will have to step up to a 200 amp panel ( if your current is 100 amp)
And you may now have to get arc fault breakers ( depending on jurisdiction) and outlets depending if your circuits share a neutral or not.
The arc fault outlets run $35 bucks. The 15 amp and 20 amp arc fault breakers run 40-50 bucks each.
Last edited by Electrician4you; 03-18-2015 at 05:41 PM..
Minimum 30 amp breaker wire is 10/3. Anything smaller will get hot and can screw things up. Granted length/distance of run receptacle lug size and appliance requirements all make a difference. You may have to step to a 8 ga. I can tell you running the electrical can cost more especially if you don't have the capacity in the panel you will have to step up to a 200 amp panel ( if your current is 100 amp)
And you may now have to get arc fault breakers ( depending on jurisdiction) and outlets depending if your circuits share a neutral or not.
The arc fault outlets run $35 bucks. The 15 amp and 20 amp arc fault breakers run 40-50 bucks each.
I think most people are clearly recommending staying with gas, as the cheaper option in the long run. But you should know what size service you have. It should be clearly marked on your breaker box. Many pre WWII homes have 100 Amp service (originally homes were 60 Amp). Most homes from the late 1960's have 200 Amp. Very very few modern homes have higher amperage.
Count your heavy duty electric circuits. My house has 9 (but it's a big home)
Amp
30 electric Dryer
30 Heavy Duty Electric Heater
30 Sauna
30 Kitchen: Range
50 Kitchen: oven
50 Kitchenette oven
30 Water Heater (50 gallon)
40 Water Heater (80 gallon)
30 Outside air conditioning unit
"P.S. Call an OLDER plumber, younger plumbers may not know how to use a pipe wrench."
ROTFL! Somewhat true. What is wanted is a plumber who is also a certified pipe fitter. One of those can build you a battleship.
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