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So instead of replacing my daughter's furniture I am going to restain to a dark color. She has a dresser, nightstand and a bed. I am starting with the dresser and specifically the drawer fronts. I bought some Varathane Kona stain from HD and did one front last night. Then I realized I should have also got poly which I am going to do today. However, they have a all in one (stain plus poly) product. My question is, if I use an all in one product - What happens if I need another coat? Can I do that with the all in one stain/poly?
Hardest thing has been all of the sanding but better than spending a grand on new furniture!
My question is, if I use an all in one product - What happens if I need another coat? Can I do that with the all in one stain/poly?
Well, the furniture becomes that much darker, you can but...
Your best bet is stain and poly.
Lets backup a bit- in order for stain to have a consistent color you have to remove all previous finish(es). Then, its either ready for a sanding sealer or stain directly depending on the species of wood. By using just stain you can control the depth of color. Once the final color is achieved you can finish with poly, lacquer, or acrylic.
As I stated, yes you can use multiple coats of "poly-stain". However, every coat you add makes the finish that much darker.
That's why it's so much easier to use "stain" to achieve color- then finish with several coats of a clear finish.
"Poly-stain" is a marketing gimmick for the DIY'er; just like "paint&primer" in one can. They lead you to believe you're killing two birds with one stone, but...
What kind of brush is ideal for brushing on Poly? I got one of those economy brushes yesterday and it seemed to create bubbles as I brushed on the poly.
But the brush alone isn't going to rid you of the bubbles. Those are usually a cause of technique and preparation. "Lay" the finish on- don't "brush" it on. In other words, long slow strokes, not short back-n-forth strokes. You want thin multiple coats (sanding inbetween), not a heavy coat and done. Preparation can be the condition of the wood (sealed or not sealed), could also be the can of finish- never shake, or stir vigorously, this will keep air bubbles to a minimum.
However, if you want to achieve a mirror like finish spraying is the way to go. And you can get poly or acrylic in rattle cans.
The best thing I found to put on poly is not a brush. I take a clean cotton rag, bunch up some paper towels in the rag to turn it into a ball with a flat side and tie it up with a rubber band to give you a handle. I also cut the poly with some paint thinner to make it go on smoother. The first coat I use mostly poly and just a small amount of thinner. As I add more coats I work the mixture to half poly and half paint thinner. Combine the mixture using a stir stick. The same advice as above with long slow strokes. My last few coats I don't even need to sand in between.
ok - so here is my drawer front that were sanded, stained and 2 coats of clear satin poly applied. They turned out ok but still cant figure out how to get rid of the bubbles. Maybe I will try what Az mitch says??
OK - so how do I sand the dresser frame? use a palm sander like this one pictured?
Take the highest grit of sand paper you have and lightly sand out the bubbles. Make a mix of half poly and half paint thinner. Use the applicator I described and apply the mix. Start at one side of the drawer and use one continuous long stroke to apply the mix. Don't take the applicator off the wood until you finish.
Use the hand sander or get a sanding block and sand down the frame.
I hate the bubbles that form. I found this technique of cutting the poly and applying with a rage online and haven't had any problems with bubbles. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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