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I will need 1/2 inch pipes that will follow up to the sink? and joint that I add on, or connection piece,
That is typical for sinks. If you are going to have a "floating sink" you are going to want to end the copper with threaded connection inside the wall and switch to threaded chrome pipe if it's exposed.
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when it comes time to buy the pipes, ill will take measurements anyways and show the people in home depot.
You need to cut the pipe to length, just estimate what you need.
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- finish the path for pipes and instructions for sink
- connect the feed lines
On the end of the pipe you should put two shut off valves. Once that's done you can test your connection before you do anything else. Attaching the flexible lines to the sink is the easiest part.
Research, something like this is really helpful if you know someone. Don't be afraid to do it yourself but don't be surprised if this turns into a giant project and you end spending more than if the plumber did it.
Probably the most important tip of all I forgot was be very careful with torch while working in or near the wall.
Here is one thing to think about: You will probably need a permit to do this work and the inspector will be making certain that the work is performed to code. Now in my personal opinion, a person that is handy probably has the ability to do it. Supply lines are typically NBD. Drains have to be right. You need to be aware of the related codes. Are you set on copper??? If you want to make life easier go with PEX.
Here is one thing to think about: You will probably need a permit to do this work and the inspector will be making certain that the work is performed to code. Now in my personal opinion, a person that is handy probably has the ability to do it. Supply lines are typically NBD. Drains have to be right. You need to be aware of the related codes. Are you set on copper??? If you want to make life easier go with PEX.
I guarantee you there will be no permit pulled on this job. When I have a plumbing issue at my house or rentals I call my plumber. But that's me. Anyway
OP
You will need 1/2 copper pipe. You will need 1/2 90*s a wall bracket and new shut off valves. You will also need to most likely move the drain from the original location. So you will need the appropriate couplers glue new P trap straps, probably a section of drain pipe and figure out rerouting.
One trick I learned when soldering existing pipe is take a piece of bread and take off the cuts. Take the bread and shove it deep in the pipe you're gonna solder. The bread soaks up any leftover water and disintegrates when you fill up the system.
Here is one thing to think about: You will probably need a permit to do this work and the inspector will be making certain that the work is performed to code.
The state enforces code on commercial structures, but residences are built as people want. That is one of the reasons we moved here. (Insurance companies are de facto code compliance officials)
You're supposed to. You're modifying the plumbing by moving pipes and drains
About the only time you are going to get a permit where I live is major new structure or major renovations such as the whole house. We put on a garage and the inspector showed up telling me the contractor over did this that and the other thing for the foundation, that's because I requested it. Never saw him again...
Here is one thing to think about: You will probably need a permit to do this work and the inspector will be making certain that the work is performed to code. Now in my personal opinion, a person that is handy probably has the ability to do it. Supply lines are typically NBD. Drains have to be right. You need to be aware of the related codes. Are you set on copper??? If you want to make life easier go with PEX.
I agree with the PEX. First time I worked with it was this week.. Now, I was redoing a hot water heater that was installed when the house was built, so.. I was dealing with some of the crimp connectors and.. Wound up cutting the PEX above or below them and putting new sharkbite connectors in place.
While it's basically idiot stuff.. I do like the fact that you can get PEX in Red, White and Blue.. As I have the need to replace pipes, I'm certainly going to make hot water red and cold blue.. Just for ease of identifying in the crawlspace.
PEX is cheaper, easier to work with and will withstand freezing (If that's a concern) better than copper. No soldering/gluing required. Connectors are a little expensive, but worth it. And, if you screw up by half an inch.. It's flexible enough to handle that.
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