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I would ask the owner of the company to come out and look at the job. I would give him the benefit of fixing it before you take him to licensing board, or get an attorney.
Yes it will be a pain to repair, because everything will have to be out of the rooms with hardwood while they do the work. And it will take several days, be very dirty, and smell.
It could be the stain and finish coat were not compatible materials. It could be the finish material was not installed properly. It could be the finish material had gone bad.
At any rate, give him an opportunity to look at the job, and make some sort of attempt to fix it. If he refuses, then you have to decide if it is worth getting an attorney and take him to court. Many times, its just not worth taking them to court. A complaint to the license board will not likely do a lot to harm him, and it won't get you anything in return.
Thanks everyone for the advice. LI- meant the company, not "I". I appreciate all of the advice. Going to get in touch with the owner and see what he says. Thanks again!
Let me start by saying you do have to start completely over. Several factors can make the joints peel, without knowing products/procedures used couldn't give exact cause. Older houses tend to have cracks between the boards, this allows stain to soak deeper which extends the stains drying time, most of your fast drying stains have additives that have to be completely evaporated before your coat goes on, if only the joints peel that would be my best guess. A quick test to see if center of the boards will peel could point you in other directions, over buffing (floor to smooth for poly to bond) incompatable products, inadequate drying time, bad poly finish and so on. You can scratch the edge of a nickle across the board to check the bond. Best of luck
I'm a bit confused as to the sequence of events, and what exactly was applied. You keep mentioning STAIN, which is a colorant but not typically a final finish. Did they also put some sort of final polyurethane or other finish on the floor? I'm assuming they did?
I can't really tell what is happening in the pictures, other than to agree it doesn't look good. If you pick at it, does it flake away? If it does flake away, you may be able to see underneath it to see what may be causing the adhesion issues.
Regardless, from the story you told about your dealings with the contractor I think you are in for some fun. I don't see a quick fix here, beside re-sand and reapply.
Similar thing happened to us. The floors blistered. Contacted the company. They got right on it. Had the product manufacturer come out and look at it. Never figured out the cause. They had to screen the floors and re coat at their cost, I felt bad for them. Sometimes it happens. Bad product? Something on your floors that is incompatible (oils or waxes)? Who knows.
We have this issue with our hardwoods. The stain was applied too thick, and built up in the cracks between the boards. The poly on top can't adhere well and shivers off as the boards expand and contract. The only solution is to strip the floors and redo. In our case we DIY'd and have no one to blame but ourselves. Best of luck OP, hopefully the owner will at least only charge for materials to redo. If he doesn't, time to move on. It's not a mistake that an experienced refinisher should have made.
We have this issue with our hardwoods. The stain was applied too thick, and built up in the cracks between the boards. The poly on top can't adhere well and shivers off as the boards expand and contract. The only solution is to strip the floors and redo. In our case we DIY'd and have no one to blame but ourselves. Best of luck OP, hopefully the owner will at least only charge for materials to redo. If he doesn't, time to move on. It's not a mistake that an experienced refinisher should have made.
Her's doesn't look to be to much stain, normally you will see dark lines at the crack which should be visible in the pic's
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