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Old 02-01-2017, 04:43 PM
 
15,637 posts, read 26,242,236 times
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I'm with you on that. I grew up with Formica that can't take it, and we have cats who walk on the countertops, so a clean cutting board for me.
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:50 PM
 
473 posts, read 501,763 times
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I appreciate all the stories and pictures. Thanks everybody!
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:20 PM
 
Location: Lost in Montana *recalculating*...
19,743 posts, read 22,635,943 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotkarl View Post
People really prepare food directly on their countertop surfaces?
We don't prep anything on the countertops. We butcher and prep on our butchers block..
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:26 PM
 
Location: Tricity, PL
61,646 posts, read 87,001,838 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threerun View Post
We've had a maple butcher block top since 1998. We had it made by a wood shop in WV for $230. It's the only fixture we've moved with us 3 times. It sees almost daily use. I hunt a lot and used to butcher hogs, so it has seen some use! It is used for everything- meat, vegetables, rolling dough for pies- everything. I couldn't live without one. The character that wood has built up over time with the knife marks, cleaver strikes- it tells the story of our kitchen, our family meals at the table- it's literally the centerpiece of the kitchen.

There is no poly on it, no stain- this is solely used for food processing. We just wipe it down and occasionally a very light spray of diluted bleach followed by mineral oil only.

My son who is now 18 is the heir apparent, as he butcher and cooks, so he has called dibs on it already, lol.

Man this chopping block could tell some stories.
That's how my cutting board of butcher block looks like after 9 years - and I cook a lot! I just wipe off daily, scrub weekly or monthly with a Scotch-Brite and peroxide - depending how heavily it was used, and treat with mineral oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Threerun View Post
It really doesn't absorb any odors at all. Maple is a very tightly grained wood and not prone to rapid absorption. For those that may not know- one of those pictures is a pile of WV ramps- an extremely pungent leek. It did not absorb any of the odor at all.

I wipe it down with plain mild detergent and water after use and we've not had any issues with that.

The only thing it doesn't like is hot grease. The black marks on the table came from an iron skillet. However that's a breeze to remove- just a light sanding by hand, then re-oil and you're done.
I don't have any problems with odors at all - yup - chopping onions and garlic regularly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotkarl View Post
I don't think I know anybody that preps right on the counter.
Cutting boards, prep plates/dishes, etc...
I don't know either...

An untreated surface of the butcher block is eager to absorb anything we lay on it, including water, vegetables, fats and oils, dirt, wine or whatever else happens to come in contact with it. Each item can contribute to the drying, aging, and cracking process they is inevitable in wood, as well as the possibility of contamination.
So, if you want to prepare food on butcher block you need to buy mineral oil - no special brands, no linseed oil infused items, nothing that boasts penetrating formulas or additives that cause hardening over time, no "mystery" ingredients, just food safe mineral oil. (or walnut oil, if you want something that will dry and harden a bit as you continue applications - it self-polymerizes and dries over time, where the mineral oil stays wet and is wiped off.)
Then you start the wood treatments: first daily, then 1 x a week, then 1 x a month indefinitely and/or after heavy scrubbing.
Apply oil generously. Allow the oil to sit and absorb for at least 8-10 hours (perhaps overnight), then wipe the surface clean with another rag. Each time you apply the oil, you'll notice less and less is actually absorbed. This tells you it's working. Do water test - sprinkle few drops on it, and see if the water is staying on the surface or still sinking into the wood.
The idea here is the oil's ability to be repeatedly applied to the surface, allowed to penetrate and be absorbed into the porous wood, and ultimately any excess can be wiped away. Each successive application recharges the surface of the counter top, making it resistant to absorbing anything you don't want to soak in.
That's it. Simple, no?

I wish I did it with the entire surface of my butcher block counter top...
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:08 PM
 
24,555 posts, read 18,230,382 times
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I had oiled maple butcher block as my kitchen counter tops and island back in the 1990's. It required a bit of care and feeding to oil it occasionally but I like that look way better than granite. You can also knock over a crystal glass on it and the glass won't shatter like on granite.
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:37 PM
 
3,247 posts, read 2,333,796 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KathrynAragon View Post
Well, I had a teakwood counter top put on our island and the contractor insisted on putting some sort of polyurethane on the top. I HATE IT and in fact we are about to get it changed out which is a shame because it was expensive. We're going with a leathered black granite counter instead.

The reason I hate it is because I told them I use this for a work space, not to be pretty and shiny. Well, my daughter was visiting and had some essential oils - which wouldn't have fazed granite at all - and she laid the top from one small bottle on the polyurethane finish and it left a ring that I cannot get rid of. Also, it scratches.

If you go with butcher block, my advice would be NOT to finish it with polyurethane if you are planning on actually using it as a work/prep area.

Another material to consider, which is very forgiving and looks natural and can be very striking, is soapstone. It develops a patina over time. We have soapstone counters so we wanted something different for the island top, which is the only reason we didn't go with soapstone there.
We have quartz counters in most of the house, including all surfaces in the kitchen. I would have chosen a different color but it's unbelievably durable. Nothing phases it and it's very easy to clean. The basement bar has two levels of granite and I have no idea what to do with it. Should I be watering it or something? We don't have to do anything to the quartz.
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:40 PM
 
Location: Wonderland
67,650 posts, read 60,853,687 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassTacksGal View Post
We have quartz counters in most of the house, including all surfaces in the kitchen. I would have chosen a different color but it's unbelievably durable. Nothing phases it and it's very easy to clean. The basement bar has two levels of granite and I have no idea what to do with it. Should I be watering it or something? We don't have to do anything to the quartz.
We had granite countertops in our last house, which were new when we moved in and we lived there five years.

We kept hearing about how granite has to be sealed once a year - but honestly, our granite countertops always looked and performed GREAT. So we never did anything to them other than just polish them up really good every once in awhile with the polish/cleaner stuff you can buy just about anywhere that's for granite countertops.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:23 PM
 
Location: Michigan
29,391 posts, read 55,574,845 times
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I replaced my butcher block counter in my old house with a new counter top because it made the kitchen look out of date like back in the 70's
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:01 AM
 
41,813 posts, read 51,023,289 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threerun View Post
It really doesn't absorb any odors at all. Maple is a very tightly grained wood and not prone to rapid absorption.
There is different species of maple, preferably for cutting board you want rock maple.

Mineral oil is often used to protect it from stains, they have other products on the market specifically for cutting boards.

If you intend on actually using it for it's purpose I wouldn't go anywhere near other applications.
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:04 AM
 
41,813 posts, read 51,023,289 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KathrynAragon View Post
We kept hearing about how granite has to be sealed once a year -
Really depends, because of the pattern even when ours are dirty you can't tell. It is is rock and will stain.
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