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Hello everyone, so I decided to replace my old picket fence and do the work myself. Before I had a small 4 foot gate but want to eventually extend my driveway and have a 12ft gate. Here's my issue: I'd prefer to do a rolling gate instead of a hinged double gate but this gate will be wood and very heavy. I can use caster wheels at the bottom but I need some type of track to guide the top and keep it stable, any ideas? This will be a manually operated gate, not electric. Attached a pic of the portion of fence Iv'e already installed, the gate will be the same design and slide behind this portion. Thanks
I've Google searched already and most of the pics are metal gates or have metal backing which I don't know how to do, a lot of them are also electric. I'm more asking if anyone has specifically done this and what product did they use for the track.
If you look at the pics in the link from ghengis you'll have the answer to "your" question.
Just because a support in a picture is made of metal doesn't mean you can't make it out of wood.
Well, I guess that answers that! What's the purpose of these boards if when someone asks specific questions and is looking for user examples, you send them to Google or tell them to figure it out? If you haven't done it or have no useful information then don't reply.
This is done with a metal rail system attached to the wood of gate and fence about a third distance from top. Two rails would be better than one. The gate itself will need be maybe 16 or 18 feet long so that when closed a third or so is behind the fence to give the gate stability. Do you have room/fence length to roll an 18 feet gate section along fenceline? Also concrete or pavement would be required along the fence for the wheels to roll on.
This design will be significantly more expensive than setting a post & swinging a 12 foot gate from it. And it would be rather complicated for DIY.
If you live in a snow prone area, this design would cause you aggravation.
First, yes, I see the trees that will reduce the wind. I would not depend upon that always being the case.
If you have ever handled a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood in the wind, you have an idea of the potential forces involved in trying to destroy your work. With wood, the first thing I would do is erect two stout well-anchored posts as either side of the entrance to the "pocket" the gate will slide into, and two that would flank the end of the gate when it is in the extended position, so that those forces can be safely handled.
Your real problem is going to be opening the gate on a windy day, when all that flat unbroken surface wants to twist the free end of the gate to the ground and flatten it. Unless your wheels are on outriggers that are a few feet out, it could be dangerous. I would also consider recessed track for the wheels to keep the entire gate from wanting to hinge in the wind.
The forces on a metal chain-link gate and a solid wooden one are different.
This is done with a metal rail system attached to the wood of gate and fence about a third distance from top. Two rails would be better than one. The gate itself will need be maybe 16 or 18 feet long so that when closed a third or so is behind the fence to give the gate stability. Do you have room/fence length to roll an 18 feet gate section along fenceline? Also concrete or pavement would be required along the fence for the wheels to roll on.
This design will be significantly more expensive than setting a post & swinging a 12 foot gate from it. And it would be rather complicated for DIY.
If you live in a snow prone area, this design would cause you aggravation.
Hello Historyfan, thanks for helping. The gate will be 12 feet long but the opening is 10 feet. I was planning on using some rugged wheels like the ones below so it can run on the clay dirt we have. 2 rails is a great idea! Any suggestions on rails? I was looking at the barn door style rails but most are interior. I did find some Stanley brand which may work. Thanks again
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but we do have a few neighborhood cats and deers
