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There is an original (40 years) wooden bay/bow windows that will need to be replaced.
What could be the ball park cost for replacing a bay window on first floor? Four casements, each is 2' x 4'. So total length is 8'x4'. I need estimate for good quality (not top of the line Andersen kind nor the cheapest possible).
This is in central New Jersey.
If any of you had replaced (or someone you know) the windows, it would be nice if you could share how much it costed and what kind of windows was it. Appreciate your thoughts and inputs.
Why do you think you need to replace the windows? Most of the time a good reglazing and repainting, maybe replacing a few rotted pieces, is all that's needed. If you are worried about thermal loss, I have seen several studies that indicate the ROI on keeping wooden windows and adding storms is far better than that for replacing with double pane windows.
If the original window was installed in the 70s it is probably about 50/50 chance it was a single unit. Older than that it would have been more likely to be individual framing and panes, newer than that increased chance it was single unit. You need to determine both IF the whole bay needs to be replaced / underlying framing replaced AND what sort of units are available. The big cost factors are going to be if the whole thing needs to be replaced AND damage to things like sidewall or sill-plate needs to be repaired. Worst case this can be a HUGE project that requires lots of hidden repair well beyond the cost of just the bay...
The way that the original bay was installed / built will have huge impact and unfortunately it will be hard for even an honest tradesperson to fully assess what really should be done. If the original bay was either site built correctly or a well made unit properly installed it may make sense to do as little as possible. If the bay is failing (signs of water leaks / condensation / air flowing through) the smart first step is to determine how big a problem you are facing. That generally means talking to several different INDEPENDENT contractors NOT anybody who makes their living SELLING WINDOWS. Once you and the contractor are on the same page the best solution could be a more costly unit that might require things like a fork light to install BUT will replace any damaged sidewall / roof with something that is trouble free...
If you do not have the budget that a complete replacement unit would require (that might be upwards of $5000) a good honest contractor can suggest repairs that will help minimize further deterioration. Such solutions will like require some materials and at least a few days worth of work for things like painting but it might be $500 as a starting budget.
The MOST HONEST contractor will tell you if there is "nothing to change or repair" and hope that instead of charging your for his honest assessment you call him or her FIRST whenever you or your friends need work done down the road!
There is moisture in between the panes, looks like the inert gas might have escaped and leakage over the years letting moisture in.
Note: We are in the process of buying this house (post inspection and preclosing), so the home inspector said that it might be worth changing it. Since fixing it might cost significant anyway for a window that many years old.
So I was hoping I could get real world cost incurred from others who replaced their windows. I was worried about what else we will find underneath after we decide to change - just like chet everett's comment.
Call a few glass companies in the area, tell them the problem, type of window you need, and ask if they'd give you just a ballpark estimate so you can factor that into your offer. Seeing how there's moisture between the panes, consider them no longer energy efficient.
Sounds like you just need to replace the double pane units that have clouded up, not the entire window assembly.
I would say that if the windows work fine mechanically, and are not rotted, just replace the panes that are clouded and don't overcomplicate the issue.
There is moisture in between the panes, looks like the inert gas might have escaped and leakage over the years letting moisture in.
Note: We are in the process of buying this house (post inspection and preclosing), so the home inspector said that it might be worth changing it. Since fixing it might cost significant anyway for a window that many years old.
So I was hoping I could get real world cost incurred from others who replaced their windows. I was worried about what else we will find underneath after we decide to change - just like chet everett's comment.
it may be worth it to look for the mfg stamp and contact a window company who might be able to determine that there is still an active warranty on the glazing. We had a similar bay window assembly (Probably 20 to 30 years old) exhibit the same moisture issues and the guys that came out were able to provide the replacement windows at no cost and only had to pay for the labor.
it may be worth it to look for the mfg stamp and contact a window company who might be able to determine that there is still an active warranty on the glazing. We had a similar bay window assembly (Probably 20 to 30 years old) exhibit the same moisture issues and the guys that came out were able to provide the replacement windows at no cost and only had to pay for the labor.
That's good to know. I don't have access to the windows to verify it yet.
Is there a way to test if there is draft (wood shrinkage, etc) in the windows?
How does one test to see - what will be (if any) energy efficiency by replacing existing one?
I did see few options, where holes are drilled to remove moisture and sealing it back. Its hard to believe that sealing will last for too long.
Still looking for cost estimate if any of you have replaced for bay window.
I checked with Home Depot, looks like $2000 (approx) for materials and installation could vary a lot ($800 to $1500??). And any bad/damaged materials will only add on to this cost. Its is 2' x 4' casements, four casements.
Estimates from local shops were $3500 to $5000. This cost is subject to lot of changes, after they see it person.
That's good to know. I don't have access to the windows to verify it yet.
Is there a way to test if there is draft (wood shrinkage, etc) in the windows?
How does one test to see - what will be (if any) energy efficiency by replacing existing one?
I did see few options, where holes are drilled to remove moisture and sealing it back. Its hard to believe that sealing will last for too long.
Still looking for cost estimate if any of you have replaced for bay window.
I checked with Home Depot, looks like $2000 (approx) for materials and installation could vary a lot ($800 to $1500??). And any bad/damaged materials will only add on to this cost. Its is 2' x 4' casements, four casements.
Estimates from local shops were $3500 to $5000. This cost is subject to lot of changes, after they see it person.
The local shops are being truthful -- there is TOO MUCH variation for them to really say what is needed without a CAREFUL assessment of why the existing windows are they way they are!
Big box might be OK for a box of tile or replacing appliances (though my experience is they screw that up so often that multiple call backs are needed and there is no savings...) but for this their whole system of doing business is a DISASTER. They ORDER a big unit that might or might not be what you really need. The installers are told to meet the unit at your house as it is delivered. If it is not what you need you MIGHT be able to send it back or the installer may have ALREADY ripped out your old unit and NOW they realize why it failed and the scramble to patch your home while what you really need is order OR they foolishly do a half-backed attempt to make what would have been a nice long lived factory built unit "sorta fit" and RUIN the expensive unit...
DO NOT DO THIS!!!
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NEVER go the "big box" for this kind of thing!!!
