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It is all new, so it's all open. We are just about done with the shell.
I believe that closed cell is ideal here, so we don't need a vapor barrier on the walls that will be drywalled.
I have cellulose all over my house,loose in the attic and wet in the walls. I am happy with it. I would also consider a hybrid solution, like cellulose in the walls and closed cell in the vaulted ceiling/attic.
How are they "legally" getting away with a lessor rated ceiling
When your inspectors are doing the inspecting, they can change the rules any way they want. All they require is a 20 minute rating for ceiling and walls from the garage to living area and that includes the garage entry door. I suppose though that they are of the opinion that if a fire happens, people should be able to get out of the house in 20 minutes. And that the local fire dept can make the call in far less than 20 minutes. We still spec 5/8 type X for all ceilings regardless of 1 or 2 story, living quarters above, etc. Same for common walls with the garage. We use only solid core doors at the garage entry too. But then we don't build production homes where a dollar saved puts ten dollars in the division managers bonus check.
When your inspectors are doing the inspecting, they can change the rules any way they want. All they require is a 20 minute rating for ceiling and walls from the garage to living area and that includes the garage entry door. I suppose though that they are of the opinion that if a fire happens, people should be able to get out of the house in 20 minutes. And that the local fire dept can make the call in far less than 20 minutes. We still spec 5/8 type X for all ceilings regardless of 1 or 2 story, living quarters above, etc. Same for common walls with the garage. We use only solid core doors at the garage entry too. But then we don't build production homes where a dollar saved puts ten dollars in the division managers bonus check.
If I'm reading you correctly- they're not reading the code correctly (what's new there!).
I think that maybe unfortunate for someone in the future- I see major "wrongful death" lawsuit against a lot of entities, and persons.
If I heat the garage is it safe to put a water heater in the garage? I was thinking of a tankless with freeze protection. Water is not SOFT but just mildly hard.
If I heat the garage is it safe to put a water heater in the garage? I was thinking of a tankless with freeze protection. Water is not SOFT but just mildly hard.
Yes. But if you keep it closer to "point-of-use" there is less plumbing and less heat loss.
The builder I was talking to was suggesting above the bathroom/kitchen in a knee wall (conditioned space), which makes me a little nervous just because if it leaks, it'd be on top of all of the drywall and finished stuff. Those are basically the 2 options.
If I heat the garage is it safe to put a water heater in the garage? I was thinking of a tankless with freeze protection. Water is not SOFT but just mildly hard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr
Yes. But if you keep it closer to "point-of-use" there is less plumbing and less heat loss.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe moving
The builder I was talking to was suggesting above the bathroom/kitchen in a knee wall (conditioned space), which makes me a little nervous just because if it leaks, it'd be on top of all of the drywall and finished stuff. Those are basically the 2 options.
Look at it from this point of view...how many times a day will you be waiting for the water to come out hot because the heater is located some distance from the taps? How many times will you have a leak? I've never had a leak, and I've had both tank and tankless water heaters.
It's pretty close either way. Much closer than it is in my house from basement to 2nd floor. In the garage it would go quickly up to a very well insulated space (assuming you bury the Pex inside of the spray foam insulation..., I think they would).
Pros for in garage: Easier to access, leak would be much less of a deal, might as well put a hot water faucet in the garage which is nice for me.
Cons for garage: worry about freezing if my garage heat fails, more heat loss, longer run, but we're talking minimal with an on demand.
Pros for knee wall: Less heat loss , less likely to freeze
Cons: More difficult to access, more likely to leak water on finished surfaces when maintaining or in a failure
Oh I meant that the run is pretty close. It is not far from the HWH in the garage to where the point of use would be.
Upstairs would be even shorter of course.
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