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We tired DAP on a small one inch section. It's not hard but it's not coming loose either after a heavy rain.
We can look for Sarco if DAP is the consensus no go.
I've never used anything but DAP and have no complaints whatsoever. Not saying there's not something better our there, but it serves the purpose just fine.
I worked for a local lumber yard that opened sometime around 1900 from 1978 to 2014. Reglazing windows was one service we offered and I can tell you that during the time I worked there, I fixed hundreds, if not thousands of windows. The person who taught me the technique had been building and repairing window sashes for them since the 1950s. We always used DAP and DAP 33.
The trick I learned was to always be sure you cleaned all of the old glazing material out of the sash. Most of our repairs involved new glass, so the next step was to place a thin bed of glazing all the way around the opening for the glass to set in. This provided a cushion for filling in uneven areas and helped keep the glass from moving around while you set the glaizer's points. The glazing compound was then forced around the sash frame and glass with a stiff putty knife and smoothed with that same knife. I was told that in earlier days, there was always a can of linseed oil and brush there to coat the wooden frames before glazing. That was no longer necessary with the DAP 33.
One thing that was nice with the DAP 33 not hardening quickly, it did not shrink up, crack, and pull away from the glass surfaces. Once it "skinned over" it was recommended that it be painted, with the paint going on to the glass a bit to seal everything from the weather.
Well we did not have a chance to remove the excess paint around each of the 12 window panes until now. So the DAP has been there right near 2 weeks. When using the razor blade to remove the excess on the glass it pulled part of the paint off of the DAP. So since there are two more windows that may require DAP on all 24 panes the issue now is that paint does not adhere to it.
We had poor luck with DAP. It would not stick to the wood. The point would not fit between glass and pane frame. The original was nice and straight and the compound made a nice triangular look.
It stuck to the putty knife and our fingers but not the wood. We fixed a few spots, replaced the storm window and will come back early next year and see if it is dry and able to be painted. Hard to believe that is the best technology has for glazing. White caulking may have worked better. Next time we'll wear rubber gloves.
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