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Old 08-24-2018, 09:52 PM
 
2,129 posts, read 1,760,779 times
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So this 60 year old former Air Force house was sided with asbestos shingle, which means you can't scrape it and you can't power wash it (because then you will be breathing asbestos fibers).

So the former owner of this place tried to paint over the now chalky and badly faded original paint (at that time about 50 year old paint job).

They did not wash the siding down. They did not use any primer. They just slapped up some blue latex paint over chalky old oil paint.

Naturally it started peeling in short order.

The owner after them just went around with a can of blue paint that did not even come close to matching and painted over the bare spots.

Again, no washing, no priming.

Now THAT paint is peeling off. Unsurprising.

The only true solution is to side over it all and reset the windows, which since they actually all need to be replaced isn't that much of a problem - except I'm hoping to sell this place in less than 12 months, at least before Spring 2020. So I don't feel it is worth my while to spend that money for something that won't add a penny to the amount we can get for the house. I would do it if I were staying here but I'm not.

However I have to cover those bare spots up so the HOA doesn't come around and bite my ... patoot.

I can take a chip to the paint place and get something that ought to match better than the stuff the last guys used. But not sure what types of primer/paint to get to do this patch job.

Is there a primer I can use that will help the new paint adhere a little better?

I've got chalky oil paint under some kind of latex. I can hit the exposed original paint with some TSP using a rag or sponge and remove at least some of the chalkiness. But then what?

Not trying to hide anything from a buyer, there are still plenty of "patched" places from the last guy that are obvious on casual examination (since the paint is so obviously different). I just want to put off the ultimate repair and give me and whoever DOES buy it some breathing room.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:02 PM
 
Location: Richmond VA
6,870 posts, read 7,811,823 times
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I had asbestos shingle siding once. It always looked chalky (and it was white, go figure). We ended up removing the asbestos (In NY it is legal to do it yourself but you can't hire someone to do it. Weird). and then having it resided. All advice told us that if you put vinyl over it, it shatters and ends up crumbling down around your foundation between the vinyl and the sheathing. Yuck!

Honestly? I think you should do what you have to do to get the patches ready, then repaint the entire house. Go to the paint store and ask. I suspect they'll tell you to use oil primer.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:49 PM
 
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I am not going to paint the house. That would just result in MORE PEELING. You don't paint an entire house when it is already peeling without significant prep work, which isn't appropriate here because ASBESTOS. Ideally IF I WERE STAYING I would side over it and paint that but given I'll be selling up and moving in 6 to 18 months, that would be a complete waste of money. My guess is it would cost around $8k or more (it isn't safe for me to get up on a ladder or even scaffolding and try to paint, plus this ought to be done with a sprayer, not a brush) for a half-assed job, which is the only kind you can do given the current condition and the fact that the shingles are asbestos. And it would just start peeling again the same as it already is.

You know who would do that? Someone trying to cheat the next buyer.

It isn't the siding that looks chalky, it is the 60 year old oil paint on it.

I would never put up vinyl siding. I would put up either metal or something like T1-11.

You side over it because of the huge expense of disposing of the asbestos shingles because they are hazardous waste, even if I were willing to take it down myself and risk cancer (plus there's the whole not climbing up 15' or 20' off the ground due to the risk of falling and breaking a hip or worse yet, my neck).

I'll pass. Siding over it is how EVERYONE here has handled it. None of us can afford to pay for the disposal. No one has experienced any sort of crumbling. Maybe that's a thing with vinyl because it can't breathe, which might make metal a poor choice as well. If it has to be removed for some reason, someone else is going to have to pay for it. I'm not doing it given my short remaining tenure here.

Anyway. Back to looking for the most effective primer for spot priming under the circumstances.

Last edited by Pyewackette; 08-24-2018 at 11:03 PM..
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Old 08-25-2018, 08:34 AM
 
Location: Floribama
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I don’t see the harm in pressure washing it. It’ll be saturated so it’s not like the fibers will be floating around. If you want to be cautious, just wear a mask.

I’d be tempted to put a coat of Peel Bond or PrimeRx on it to seal it, it basically goes on like a glue and makes a shell over any leftover peeling paint. After that, topcoat with acrylic exterior paint.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:19 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southernnaturelover View Post
I don’t see the harm in pressure washing it. It’ll be saturated so it’s not like the fibers will be floating around. If you want to be cautious, just wear a mask.

I’d be tempted to put a coat of Peel Bond or PrimeRx on it to seal it, it basically goes on like a glue and makes a shell over any leftover peeling paint. After that, topcoat with acrylic exterior paint.
Well ya got my hopes up there, but that stuff says you still have to scrape and remove all loose paint before using it. Apparently it basically creates an uber thick coat they hope is thick enough and stable enough to stabilize anything under it that wasn't already loose, assuming you have already removed all the loose stuff.

However one of the articles about the stuff talked about gel strippers, which reminds me, I still have a bunch of citristrip. My best bet might be just to use that only on the shingles that have peeling (because using that stuff on an entire house would cost more than residing it, LOL!).

Then just prime and paint the whole shingle. I'm sure I won't get a 100% color match but its got to look better than the odd blobby dark blue spots where the last guys painted over bare spots (the outer coat of paint is a light blue).

Thanks!
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Old 08-25-2018, 02:20 PM
 
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Part of me completely understands what the OP is facing -- a splotchy looking house with peeling paint and oddly mismatched attempted efforts to try to deal with prior attempts to fix it is going to make any responsible homeowner feel awful.


That said there is a saying about "the cover up being worse than the crime" and even though the OP's is coming at this in a good way, of trying to do the best with the lowest risk, I gotta say that it is NEVER possible to truly match existing exterior paint because of how UV and other weather makes even the highest quality paint job fade in unpredictably ways.


It might be better to simply try to carefully clean up as much of the peeling paint as possible, maybe use a shop vac to suck up anything so there is no mess on the ground and follow with a very light "washing" with maybe a brush that you'd use for a carwash. It won't look great but it will be "honest" and folks might appreciate that this is sort of a "first step in pre-paint preparation" that shows the seller (OP) is trying to take care of the place...
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Old 08-25-2018, 02:29 PM
 
Location: Knoxville
4,705 posts, read 25,182,234 times
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Pressure washing should not be a fiber release issue. It is wet after all.
Even light scraping is not likely to do much in the way of fiber release, since there are so many coats of paint on it. You could probably pressure wash and lightly brush off the loose stuff without getting down to the core of the siding and causing a fiber release episode.

Late over oil paint and vice versa is usually not a great idea since they don't stick to each other very well, especially if not prepped properly.
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Old 08-26-2018, 07:13 PM
 
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Yeah, the HOA won't go for the cleaning and not painting thing. I'll get hit with fines and a demand to get it painted in 3 days. That's what happened to a neighbor of mine. I'm better of repainting the peeling bits (after proper prep to make those shingles, at least, less likely to peel again).

Pressure washing IS an issue. Water is wet, sure, but you are still going to kick up dust plus I don't even have a pressure washer and doubt it will do a very good job anyway given the way things are peeling. Pressure washing would be for paint prep, to clean off dust and dirt, not to remove peeling paint. I'd still have to scrape.

I'm happy with stripping the half dozen or so shingles and repainting, whether or not it matches exactly is not even in the ball park of "of interest" to me. I just want it covered up so the HOA doesn't come after me before I sell the place. The next owner can look for a longer term solution. I'm a short timer here, LOL!

Thanks for the responses.
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:30 AM
 
Location: Floribama
18,923 posts, read 43,211,623 times
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Pressure washing should blast off most of the peeling paint.

It sounds like whoever painted with the latex paint should have mixed in some Emulsa-Bond to help it adhere.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:56 PM
 
2,129 posts, read 1,760,779 times
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They should have washed it down with TSP and rinsed thoroughly, then primed with something appropriate to bond to the underlying aged oil paint to a new top coat of latex. But NOOOOOOOO.

60 year old asbestos shingle is a bear to deal with. I have checked with professionals re how to handle this and powerwashing is NOT DONE with asbestos.

https://www.asbestossiding.org/paint...bestos-siding/
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