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Another thing that needs to be factored in is that the gas stove will likely have a standard 120V plug whereas there may only be a 3 or 4-prong 240V receptacle where the existing stove is, so you would need to do some electrical work as well.
You can get a dual fuel range in that case, which has a gas stove but an electric oven. Many chefs prefer electric ovens due to their more even heating.
I hate cooking w electric but I'm now using induction and it's great. Gives you the control similar to gas stove. I simply use a stand alone unit but if $ is not an issue, I'd replace the whole stove. Just throwing this out in case you want a simpler solution.
We replaced our glass top cook top with inuction. Itvwas much simpler tgan having a gas line run to thecstove, then buying the gas cooktop. I love induction, and will never use anything else.
Think about replacing with induction. At least look into it.
With induction, pots have to have magnetic bottoms.
We just built a home, and it cost $500 to run the gas line for a stove during construction. House has gas heat and gas fireplace. Stove is probably 60 feet from where gas line comes in the house.
We just built a home, and it cost $500 to run the gas line for a stove during construction. House has gas heat and gas fireplace. Stove is probably 60 feet from where gas line comes in the house.
And! That was an option for new construction, the gas line being run while the walls are open and there aren't any access issues or things that have to be patched afterwards.
I have done it. I put the gas line in myself, it is easy to do, but you have to calculate the size pipe you need based on the distance form the gas meter. For me it was very easy because I was able to T off the gas line for the dryer, which was right next to the wall where the stove was going. I also ran a line for a water heater, this was longer and reburied bigger pipe, but again no big deal. The cost for both was less than $100. The gas company inspected it and tested for leaks for free. I do not remember whether I got a permit.
Replacing the electric stove with a gas stove will depend on what you get. We used a $3000 Hearltand reproduction antique stove, so it was pretty expensive. However more recently, we picked up a General Electric boring gas stove for $40 at an auction. It was old but had never been unwrapped from its packaging, s it was also new. It has been fine for 12 years. Some minor problems but then it is just a cheap builders grade stove. You can go to the other extreme as well. I am restoring a 1927 Magic Chef 1000 gas stove. To buy one already restored would be $15,000. You can also buy chef quality modern stoves for over $40,000.
So, the switch to gas should not be terribly expensive unless your kitchen is on the other side of the house from the gas meter, or if you are on a slab. But the replacement stove could cost you anywhere from $40 to $40,000.
I hate cooking w electric but I'm now using induction and it's great. Gives you the control similar to gas stove. I simply use a stand alone unit but if $ is not an issue, I'd replace the whole stove. Just throwing this out in case you want a simpler solution.
A little OT, but just a suggestion RE "induction" or anything smooth top. Unless you procure thick bottomed, completely flat, flush pots & pans, guaranteed not to warp or your money back, cooking on a smooth top is like chasing clouds. My last flat bottom, non-warped cooking vessel (ScanPan 2001, purchased in 1988) finally bit the dust last year. As for my smooth top? I quit. I bought a Presto electric skillet and a combo pressure cooker/slow cooker ($65 total) and now rarely use the smooth top for anything other than a little extra "counter space" and its oven, below
BTW, I have (2) luxurious looking, $50 - $60 name brand pans which acquired rocky-docky bottoms in less than maybe ?15? uses, despite being heavy as heck, and purchased in a high end kitchen store in the mall. That did it!
Plus the glass tops can easily get scratched and there is a chance of breaking them, which isn't going to happen on a gas stove with cast iron grates or an electric stove with traditional calrod elements.
Personally I would rate the desirability as highest for gas (no computers!!), then electric with calrod elements (no computers!!), and lowest for any glass topped stove or any stove with a microprocessor (with an exception for an LED clock).
But I'm a crusty old f**t and all I want my stove to do is cook.
A little OT, but just a suggestion RE "induction" or anything smooth top. Unless you procure thick bottomed, completely flat, flush pots & pans, guaranteed not to warp or your money back, cooking on a smooth top is like chasing clouds. My last flat bottom, non-warped cooking vessel (ScanPan 2001, purchased in 1988) finally bit the dust last year. As for my smooth top? I quit. I bought a Presto electric skillet and a combo pressure cooker/slow cooker ($65 total) and now rarely use the smooth top for anything other than a little extra "counter space" and its oven, below
BTW, I have (2) luxurious looking, $50 - $60 name brand pans which acquired rocky-docky bottoms in less than maybe ?15? uses, despite being heavy as heck, and purchased in a high end kitchen store in the mall. That did it!
I had a Cuisinart pan warp on me. They stood by their warranty and replaced it.
If there's not already a gas line behind your stove it's gonna be expensive. Gas lines are not something to fool with.
Unless the house in an unincorporated area where there are are no building codes you'll almost certainly need a permit, and a code inspection when the job is complete. Don't, I repeat don't, use a contractor who doesn't pull the required permit. It'll cost you later.
What'll it cost you? When it comes time to sell the house a competent inspector will see that it's a retrofit and will check for permits and inspection records. If they're they're not there you'll need to have it done. There will be fees and penalties for not doing it right the first time. To say nothing of the cost to reopen and repair walls and ceilings to inspect the work if the lines run behind finished walls. That's assuming it was done right and doesn't need even more work to be brought up to code. It'll cost you more than you saved by short cutting the job.
Resale issues aside, the last thing in the world you want is to have an insurance adjuster come into your house for some sort of a claim and discover an unpermitted gas line. Yes they will check for permits of any apparently retrofitted gas, electric, or plumbing lines they see even if it's not related to the issue they're there for. Even if it doesn't effect that claim it will certainly effect your rates, or even continued coverage.
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