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It's tough to fix a bad drywall job. I'd fix each spot with whatever technique best suits. You might be able to inject glue behind some. Cut out bad tape and re-mud others. Full strip of the seam and redo on the worst. Use the soft vinyl mesh tape for seam repairs.
Probably spots for some judicious use of added screws, too.
The corner at the ceiling/wall. That usually a tear out and re-do; but the popcorn make it a bit of a challenge because of re-doing the popcorn. I've had some luck with re-wetting the area, a "slurry" mix of drywall compound, and a sponge.
Re-wetting makes "adhesion" better. The slurry (or watery mix) of drywall compound can be easily applied with a small paint brush on the backside of the tape. Then press it into place. Once it's had time to firm up- but not dry- clean up with a damp sponge.
Elmer's would probably work; but you'd still have to deal with the crack. Latex caulk would probably work also; applied liberally and cleaned up with a damp sponge.
Looks like tape to me - hard corner material isn't usually used on ceiling angles.
But yeah, glue/adhesive caulk and some pressure - maybe sponges with a piece of 2x4 jacked in place - might be a mostly fix, with just touchup on the crack and popcorn finish.
I'd wonder about the cause, though. Might just be poor work/house flex, in which case it might reoccur with a round of seasonal change. We had a house in CT with a tall roofline, supported by Vs that came down to the centerline. A huge snow load in 2010 pressed that line of joists down and popped drywall nails all along that second floor wall line. I fixed all of them over time but six years later many had pushed through in one way or another again.
Not difficult to fix at all as long as you have the time and patience. Have the following at hand:
a. A couple of tubes of latex caulk, and a caulking gun
b. A 1" putty knife
c. A small box of nitrile gloves that fit your hand snuggly (you don't want gloves that are loose around your fingers)
d. A few rags
e. A small bucket of water that is wide enough to avoid spilling water on your floor or rugs when you wring the rags
With the putty knife, pry the tape away from the wall or ceiling (without tearing it or ripping it away), and squeeze a thick and long enough bead of caulk under the tape. Now using the knife or your gloved fingers, slowly push the tape on the outer edge (not at the corner) until the gap closes and caulk flows out. After making sure that the tape stays put, use a wet rag to carefully remove the excess caulk. You can take a couple of minutes to do this, but don't wait too long to avoid the caulk from hardening. If you don't want to use latex caulk you can use taping mud, but latex caulk has adhesive properties while mud does not. Check the work a few minuets after, before the caulk hardens, to make sure the tape is not separating from the ceiling or wall. If some of the tape is separating, just push the edges against the ceiling or wall as told above.
You may have to paint the ceiling or wall after this type of work, unless you can find a latex caulk that matches the paint color. But if you are careful you can repair the tape/ceiling and keep it clean enough not to have to paint
With the putty knife, pry the tape away from the wall or ceiling (without tearing it or ripping it away),
Please note that what I meant to say about, "to pry the tape," is just to pry the edge of the tape just enough for the tip of the caulk's tube to fit between the ceiling and the tape. You want the latex caulk to flow to the corner.
Just touching it up with a close match to the ceiling would make it hard to notice. I'd start with that.
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