Problems replacing faucet (vent, plastic)

[Cosmic]

Originally Posted by j760

Ok so when it comes to this leaky valve I give up, it's the only thing keeping me from finishing the job. It won't stop dripping, I can't get the cap off the valve to clean it or tighten the nut.

So what do you think a plumber would charge to replace both valves and give me new supply lines?

I realize no one can be precise here, but ballpark figure what do you think I'm looking at?

Think you got to be willing to use a bit more force on that handle on the valve. They will come off. Put a piece of wood or something like that down on the lower lip of the handle and give it a whack with a hammer, alternate sides, hit it to come out toward you. Those tools for pulling cables of a car battery can be used, works something like a mini gear puller. You got to find a way to concentrate some force in a small area.

Had that recently in replacing some shower valve seats in one of my relatives house. One valve handle just would not budge. Had to use some extreme force to make the puppy give it up using wooden wedges against the shower wall, again lil amount of area to work to get force on it. Applying heat is good. Maybe a cup of boiling water, hold it against the handle for a while, transfer the heat from the cup to the valve, don't pour it.

Who knows what a plumber would charge. Me in the old dazes might run you ~$100 to get it done, include the supply by me of the new valves / connecting hoses. Plumber might nick you $200 or whatever the market might bear.

[Ultrarunner]

Cost vary greatly depending on location...

Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, I know a plumber that would charge $95 for the house call and probably another 35 to $40 for materials... so around $135 total.

I still think you can do it yourself and picking up the valves and supply lines ahead of time is the smart way to do it.

[BigJon3475]

Compare Ridgid 11" Nut Basin Wrench Prices - Shop for Tools and Accessories at mySimon


for the future....




Also use some CLR on the valve and cut the water off when you try to remove it just in case.....after the CLR has soaked......wipe it clean and use something like wd-40 or PBblaster.....try tightening it slightly then turning the opposite way if you can't turn it....the calcium/lime/scale is acting like a glue.....if you can break it free at all your good to go.


No PBblaster use anything acidic like vinegar to dissolve the solids.



replace the entire valve after removing it and I would also suggest supply lines.....all available at your big box store.

[LoneStarJerry]

Originally Posted by BigJon3475

Compare Ridgid 11" Nut Basin Wrench Prices - Shop for Tools and Accessories at mySimon


for the future....




Also use some CLR on the valve and cut the water off when you try to remove it just in case.....after the CLR has soaked......wipe it clean and use something like wd-40 or PBblaster.....try tightening it slightly then turning the opposite way if you can't turn it....the calcium/lime/scale is acting like a glue.....if you can break it free at all your good to go.


No PBblaster use anything acidic like vinegar to dissolve the solids.



replace the entire valve after removing it and I would also suggest supply lines.....all available at your big box store.

Nice find Jon!

Definitely cheaper than a plumber. I want to change out these valves so bad, because even if I tighten the nut or clean rust out of the old one, the leak still might return.

I'm just hesitant to mess with these valves, and really mess something up and create even bigger expenses. If only I were a pro like some of you helpful folks.

[Cosmic]

That idea of using CLR or vinegar or whatever might work but you should try to soak it instead of just wetting it.

Maybe try some duct tape and build a lil "Boat" around that handle so it will hold liquid and allow the handle to soak. Say leave it overnight. That is a stupid way to design a valve. The handle covers up the packing nut and prevents even really seeing what is happening.

Duct tape works good for many things should be able to make that handle soak in a liquid if you form it up just right using a couple of layers.

Did you try zapping it with some form of heat??? Usually works. Just don't melt the handle, it looks to be a plastic.

[LoneStarJerry]

Originally Posted by Cosmic

That idea of using CLR or vinegar or whatever might work but you should try to soak it instead of just wetting it.

Maybe try some duct tape and build a lil "Boat" around that handle so it will hold liquid and allow the handle to soak. Say leave it overnight. That is a stupid way to design a valve. The handle covers up the packing nut and prevents even really seeing what is happening.

Duct tape works good for many things should be able to make that handle soak in a liquid if you form it up just right using a couple of layers.

Did you try zapping it with some form of heat??? Usually works. Just don't melt the handle, it looks to be a plastic.

Cosmic, there's absolutely no way I can just replace these valves entirely without messing things up right?

Since I'm inexperienced with it it's probably just to risky it sounds like. I was hoping I could just take them off, go to the home depot and get new one's. It doesn't sound that simple though, it looks as if the supply line is soldered on to the valve, do they even sell them made like that?

It just seems to me that cleaning the valve will only be a temporary fix, and that I'll have to replace them one way or another as they are extremely old and corroded. And the lines are the kind that could burst, they aren't steel braided. I'm itching to do it so bad, but don't want to flood my house or be without water because I ruined it.

That's why I'm considering a plumber. What would you do in my position? I appreciate your opinions.

[Cosmic]

First you MUST know where the main shutoff valve is and that it works proper. Try it, shut off the main valve, drain some water from a sink and ensure the main valve does not leak. Got to be able to work on stuff, secure in the knowledge you can totally shut off the water supply.

Number two you must know what you are working on. That does not look like a soldered in valve to me from your pixs. Hard to tell with the quality of the pix and all that corrosion. I looked for evidence of solder but see none. Should see some on the copper tubing. I think it is a compression fitting type valve.

Something like this with the flex supply tube built in; is probably what you have installed there. Only your has that stupid domed handle and maybe is of cheaper quality than these. They do make a solder in female type connection valve, don't think yours is one of them. We should know for sure.




This is the type of valve you want new to replace it. Get something all metal of good quality. Use good braided new flex supply tubes. This shows your typical compression type valve apart in pieces. You will probably have to use the old compression nut / ferrule, not a biggy.




My toilet shutoff valve installed. You want good quality all metal valves, the cheap plastic ones are total junk, more trouble than they are worth. Use the braided flex supply tubes. Well worth the money.





This is what I like and trust for under the sink shutoff valves. Old timers that are all metal and can be rebuilt over and over again if parts age / wear out. IF you are DIY handy, you get to choose your own hardware. These puppies are worth a fortune today.




Yeah, you can hire a plumber, the rub is they tend to use crap parts. If they use high quality valves you will really get raped. This job is not rocket science. Got to understand what is installed, how it works, how to remove it, have the replacement parts on hand to complete the job once you remove the old stuff.

Lot depends on is this your house or an apartment? Still when messing around with plumbing my first rule is ALWAYS USE QUALITY PARTS. Junk and plumbing don't mix, you just go from the frying pan into the fire.

If you can do it yourself, you put the money into the top quality parts / tools instead of going into the next month's payment for the plumber's new Lexus. Nothing negative about plumbers here, they usually will get it done, probably earn their money. Jobs like these are just gravy for them, way, way overkill in the skills required. Beware of plumbers using cheap crap and charging for the good stuff.

Clean it up, lets make sure you really do have the type of valve I think it is. Make sure you have something like I showed above, maybe take a better pix once it is cleaned, post it here. Make sure you know how to shut off the water supply to the house / apartment. Then find some replacement parts. Ensure the flex braided tubes are of the proper length and connection types, they can be a bit too long, err on the side of being too long, don't try to get them exactly the length you measure.

Yeah, you should be able to handle this project. Do you know anybody to come hold your hand for the big day of surgery in the bath? Do the deed. Gets easier once you have done a few projects. Lets just make sure you know what / how.

[John DK]

Hi,

How about just carefully cutting the plastic nuts off with a stanley knife. The new taps should come with new nuts.

john.
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[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by j760

I was able to take a picture of one of these nuts from under the sink, it will give a visual aid.

Looks like an Aggie did your vanity.

Oh well, I'm always looking for reasons to use my Dremel anyway...

[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by Ultrarunner

I prefer to use quarter turn angle stop valves. Since you've got 1/2" compression angle stop valves... that is what I would go with.

"Peace of Mind" is having a 1/4 turn stop valve on your toilet supply line...